2014 Acura ILX.. Alum too high

[Excel]

Hey guys,my first post and first ever oil test/report
6000 miles on M1 0/20 synth,WIX filter...

I am not sure what to make of this report,engine calls for changes at 5000 miles,so im 1000 past
Im thinking this oil does not get the job done ?

No engine work was ever done on the motor and its 32000 miles old,def broken in and should not have
any moly or alum in it ..

Thoughts ?


refilled engine this go around with M1EP 0/20 synth and wix,added new air filter
plan to retest at 5000 .

 

[147_Grain]

Merry Christmas and Welcome to the Forum!

What type of oil was previously used and was maintenance performed consistently?

 

[Merkava_4]

Did you check the air induction system like they suggested ?

Is the air intake hose sealed tight around the air cleaner box ?

Is the other end of the air intake hose sealed tight around the throttle body ?

 

[Excel]

all looked normal

 

[Excel]

Originally Posted By: 147_Grain
Merry Christmas and Welcome to the Forum!

What type of oil was previously used and was maintenance performed consistently?

THX !
dealer did all the oil changes up until earlier this year when I switched to DIY

 

[JHZR2]

21 ppm of Al doesn't strike me as high.

 

[tig1]

Originally Posted By: JHZR2
21 ppm of Al doesn't strike me as high.


It's still well below the acceptable point.

 

[90crvtec]

The R20 engine in the ILX is based on the R18 engine from the 2006-2015 Civic. The R18 engine commonly trends higher on aluminum and silicon. While the numbers in your UOA are a tad high they aren't alarming and based on similar UOAs from R18 Civics, I'd say your engine is running a close trend with those cars. You could try experimenting with different oils and see if the car likes a certain chemistry better. But honestly, I wouldn't worry about it and just keep doing what you're doing. The metals aren't alarming enough to cause concern, especially if the vehicle runs fine and doesn't consume any oil.

Here are some UOAs from Civics running the R18 that also are trending higher than average aluminum.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3871139/1
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/3841297/Searchpage/3/Main/241120/Words/civic/Search/true/Re:_2010_Honda_Civic_1.8L_4900#Post3841297
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/3790177/Searchpage/4/Main/232502/Words/civic/Search/true/Re:_2012_Civic_1.8L,_Mobil_1_E#Post3790177

 

[Excel]

Originally Posted By: 90crvtec
The R20 engine in the ILX is based on the R18 engine from the 2006-2015 Civic. The R18 engine commonly trends higher on aluminum and silicon. While the numbers in your UOA are a tad high they aren't alarming and based on similar UOAs from R18 Civics, I'd say your engine is running a close trend with those cars. You could try experimenting with different oils and see if the car likes a certain chemistry better. But honestly, I wouldn't worry about it and just keep doing what you're doing. The metals aren't alarming enough to cause concern, especially if the vehicle runs fine and doesn't consume any oil.

Here are some UOAs from Civics running the R18 that also are trending higher than average aluminum.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3871139/1
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/3841297/Searchpage/3/Main/241120/Words/civic/Search/true/Re:_2010_Honda_Civic_1.8L_4900#Post3841297
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/3790177/Searchpage/4/Main/232502/Words/civic/Search/true/Re:_2012_Civic_1.8L,_Mobil_1_E#Post3790177



I am planning too,but it still makes me wonder
if A) M1 is the best oil for this engine and
B) how much life is there in the oil ? I am not a fan of thin oils(call me old school)

 

[JSRT4]

The aluminum reading seems high for a Honda engine, though I am not familiar with this particular engine from Acura.

I had positive results lowering aluminum with Red Line 5w30 oil in my Honda S2000 engine, it was lowest running Red Line oil, where it dropped from 6ppm to 1ppm. Not sure if that is enough help for your situation given how high it is.

Keep checking for the source of the high silicon, that is a bit high.

 

[deven]

Does the ILX really require 5000 mile OCIs? I thought Honda/Acura came with OLMs.

 

[Mike242GT]

At least some of the aluminum could be from the same source as the silicon. Most of the rock-forming minerals which weather down to sand, silt and dirt-sized grains and find their way into your intake system contain both Si and Al.

 

[gathermewool]

Is your intake stock?

You can't infer anything from one data point.

 

[Excel]

Originally Posted By: deven
Does the ILX really require 5000 mile OCIs? I thought Honda/Acura came with OLMs.


The OLM says 5000,the book says nothing,the dealer says follow the OLM LOL
Funny,I do not find those OLM to be anything other than a timer,our driving habits went
from full on city driving to 75-80MPH HWY and nothing w that computer changed,still said
5000 ! What am i missing ?

Originally Posted By: Mike242GT
At least some of the aluminum could be from the same source as the silicon. Most of the rock-forming minerals which weather down to sand, silt and dirt-sized grains and find their way into your intake system contain both Si and Al.


Thats why I added a new filter and made sure we had no leaks
in the intake

 

[deven]

The Honda OLM's are not timer based. They take a lot of things into consideration ie driving habits, RPMs, start/stop revolutions etc. When I had my 2009 TL, the OLM would usually get to 15% Oil life any where between 7,000 to 8,500 miles. The ILX should have the same OLMs.

 

[90crvtec]

Originally Posted By: Excel

I am planning too,but it still makes me wonder
if A) M1 is the best oil for this engine and
B) how much life is there in the oil ? I am not a fan of thin oils(call me old school)

I can understand wanting to try a few different brands to see if the wear metals can be reduced. I would probably do the same thing just for the sake of my own curiosity. Maybe try one more OCI with the M1 and do another UOA to establish a trend. If aluminum is still higher than you are comfortable with, then try another brand for at least two OCIs and re-sample. I'd go for at least two OCIs to make sure that you have the same additive chemistry in the sump, as you know a single oil change doesn't completely remove all of the old oil and there's always a 'mix' of old/new oil for the first OCI. When switching brands always do 2 OCIs before a UOA, that way you'll get a better picture of how the new oil is working.

These Honda engines will pretty much run on anything. So if you wanted to try 5w30 or even 10w30 I don't think you'd harm anything. But I also don't think there's a reason to do that yet, I'd stay with either 0w20 or 5w20 and see what happens with a few more miles.

 

[Excel]

Originally Posted By: deven
The Honda OLM's are not timer based. They take a lot of things into consideration ie driving habits, RPMs, start/stop revolutions etc. When I had my 2009 TL, the OLM would usually get to 15% Oil life any where between 7,000 to 8,500 miles. The ILX should have the same OLMs.


Seemed to be,since we drastically changed our commute and it landed on 5000 again.




Originally Posted By: 90crvtec
Originally Posted By: Excel

I am planning too,but it still makes me wonder
if A) M1 is the best oil for this engine and
B) how much life is there in the oil ? I am not a fan of thin oils(call me old school)

I can understand wanting to try a few different brands to see if the wear metals can be reduced. I would probably do the same thing just for the sake of my own curiosity. Maybe try one more OCI with the M1 and do another UOA to establish a trend. If aluminum is still higher than you are comfortable with, then try another brand for at least two OCIs and re-sample. I'd go for at least two OCIs to make sure that you have the same additive chemistry in the sump, as you know a single oil change doesn't completely remove all of the old oil and there's always a 'mix' of old/new oil for the first OCI. When switching brands always do 2 OCIs before a UOA, that way you'll get a better picture of how the new oil is working.

These Honda engines will pretty much run on anything. So if you wanted to try 5w30 or even 10w30 I don't think you'd harm anything. But I also don't think there's a reason to do that yet, I'd stay with either 0w20 or 5w20 and see what happens with a few more miles.



sound advise,im going to do another test at 5000 and see

 

[deven]

From Acura website

Q: How does the Acura Maintenance Minder know when the 0% trigger occurs?

A: The system counts down oil life based on engine operating conditions (both normal and severe). The on-board computer continuously monitors engine operating conditions such as speed, engine temperature, ambient temperature, time, and vehicle use to determine when an oil change and regular maintenance is necessary.

 

[Al]

I almost suspect a faulty test result. There is no ring wear which is why I believe this. I doubt if the oil has anything to do with this.

 

[rrounds]

If your not happy with the 0/20, throw in M1 0/30 next time or 10/30 and do a couple of runs with that oil. Its not like you live where you need a 0 weight oil.

ROD