I wonder how long a good synthetic motor oil (like Castrol 0W30 or Mobil 1) can be used after its manufacturing date ? I just bought a couple of German Castrol 0W30 quarts with the SL designation. I wonder how old this is. Does anyone know how to interpret the numbering codes on the bottles to figure out a Castrol or Mobil 1 manufacturing date ? Any input would be appreciated.
How long doe synthetic motor oils remain useable ?
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I don't know how to check the codes but oil can last pretty much indefinitely in a sealed bottle. Just give it a good shake it you leave it on a shelf for several years.
There have been BITOGers that have used 25+ year old oil from the '80s, SF rating or similar, worked just fine (in an older application). Your SL German Castrol is likely not that old, believe they still make it in SL today, might want to check the date code.
It's quite possible, and probably likely that your Castrol 0w-30 is less than a year old. The SL rating on some current oils with strong additive packages prevents them from getting an SM/SN rating. They can still be excellent oils.
I had a 1/2 full bottle of M1 15w-50 from 1995 that I just emptied out to see what was in there. Everything looked fine except for a small blob of what appeared to be chemicals on one side of the bottom. Tried shaking/flushing it out to no avail. Poking at it with metal rod got half of it to break free. So maybe 20 years is on the long side.
as long as necessary. They do not expire.
Originally Posted By: Wolf359
The standard response is 5 years, but probably for longer. They only say 5 years because the designation might change in that time frame so you don't want old spec oil sitting around.
^^^ This..depends on where is was stored and the temp. Just because BITOGs use 25 year old oil and their engine didnt seize up doesn't mean the oil is good.
The standard response is 5 years, but probably for longer. They only say 5 years because the designation might change in that time frame so you don't want old spec oil sitting around.
^^^ This..depends on where is was stored and the temp. Just because BITOGs use 25 year old oil and their engine didnt seize up doesn't mean the oil is good.
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The quality of oil is advancing fast enough to make the thought of using old oil in a new car a bad idea if what your doing is trying to save a few dollars.
I would be using new oils (SN) in old cars where only SJ/SL was originally required.
Originally Posted By: Wolf359
The standard response is 5 years, but probably for longer. They only say 5 years because the designation might change in that time frame so you don't want old spec oil sitting around.
Yes, I remmember that in the 80s and 90s oil was considered indefinite life when not oppened, like 10 years not a problem. After SL became this story of 5 years vality... now you got that right.
The standard response is 5 years, but probably for longer. They only say 5 years because the designation might change in that time frame so you don't want old spec oil sitting around.
Yes, I remmember that in the 80s and 90s oil was considered indefinite life when not oppened, like 10 years not a problem. After SL became this story of 5 years vality... now you got that right.
I don't think oil goes bad....it just gets superseded by better oils and specs...
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3818363/1
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3818363/1
If it will survive in an engine for a year under operating conditions it should last a long time in a stack in the basement.
GC 0w-30 cannot be SM or SN thanks to phosphorus levels, even if it were bottled yesterday. Because it's not a true dual rated oil by API rules nor is it a 40 grade, it cannot be SM or SN.
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
If it will survive in an engine for a year under operating conditions it should last a long time in a stack in the basement.
The problem is the additives come out of solution over time. Shaking the bottle does not put them back in solution. Cold storage temps will accelerate this
If it will survive in an engine for a year under operating conditions it should last a long time in a stack in the basement.
The problem is the additives come out of solution over time. Shaking the bottle does not put them back in solution. Cold storage temps will accelerate this
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Originally Posted By: Bluestream
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
If it will survive in an engine for a year under operating conditions it should last a long time in a stack in the basement.
The problem is the additives come out of solution over time. Shaking the bottle does not put them back in solution. Cold storage temps will accelerate this
The testing by Blackstone on a bunch of old eBay oils does not support your theory:
Blackstone eBay Test #1
Blackstone eBay Test #2
Blackstone eBay Test #3
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
If it will survive in an engine for a year under operating conditions it should last a long time in a stack in the basement.
The problem is the additives come out of solution over time. Shaking the bottle does not put them back in solution. Cold storage temps will accelerate this
The testing by Blackstone on a bunch of old eBay oils does not support your theory:
Blackstone eBay Test #1
Blackstone eBay Test #2
Blackstone eBay Test #3
How are you measuring the sludge the antique oils may have left behind?
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Originally Posted By: Bluestream
How are you measuring the sludge the antique oils may have left behind?
No one is stating to use an antique oil in a modern engine and therefore the topic of sludge is irrelevant to this thread. I am simply pointing out that through testing, Blackstone has more or less disproven what you said here:
Originally Posted By: Bluestream
The problem is the additives come out of solution over time. Shaking the bottle does not put them back in solution. Cold storage temps will accelerate this.
Meaning that for all practical purposes synthetic oil in the bottle will last indefinitely and in the engines that it is specified for can be used "whenever".
How are you measuring the sludge the antique oils may have left behind?
No one is stating to use an antique oil in a modern engine and therefore the topic of sludge is irrelevant to this thread. I am simply pointing out that through testing, Blackstone has more or less disproven what you said here:
Originally Posted By: Bluestream
The problem is the additives come out of solution over time. Shaking the bottle does not put them back in solution. Cold storage temps will accelerate this.
Meaning that for all practical purposes synthetic oil in the bottle will last indefinitely and in the engines that it is specified for can be used "whenever".
I consider 25 year old oil bought on eBay to be "antique" Why would anyone want to use that in any decent vehicle is beyond me.
Most oil companies like Castrol specify a 5 year shelf life.
From Petro Canada site:
Product Shelf Life – Lubricating oils
The performance properties of liquid lubricants (oils) will remain intact for
many years provided they have been in protected storage and not exposed to
severe high/low temperature cycles.
Almost all lubricating oils may be stored for three (3) years under protected
conditions*. These include:
• Hydraulic, Air & Gas Compressor, Turbine and most other industrial oils
• Heat Transfer Fluids
• Natural Gas Engine Oils, Locomotive Diesel Engine Oils
• Industrial and Automotive Gear Oils and Automatic Transmission
*Protected conditions: indoor or covered storage with no freeze/thaw cycles.
Most oil companies like Castrol specify a 5 year shelf life.
From Petro Canada site:
Product Shelf Life – Lubricating oils
The performance properties of liquid lubricants (oils) will remain intact for
many years provided they have been in protected storage and not exposed to
severe high/low temperature cycles.
Almost all lubricating oils may be stored for three (3) years under protected
conditions*. These include:
• Hydraulic, Air & Gas Compressor, Turbine and most other industrial oils
• Heat Transfer Fluids
• Natural Gas Engine Oils, Locomotive Diesel Engine Oils
• Industrial and Automotive Gear Oils and Automatic Transmission
*Protected conditions: indoor or covered storage with no freeze/thaw cycles.
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