Spark plug torque: tapered vs gasket seal

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I changed the spark plugs in a Mazda3 this weekend -- the Mazda MZR engine which is essentially the same engine as the Duratec 23/20 used in the Ford Focus. These are taper seat plugs, and I think every other vehicle with aluminum heads I've changed plugs on uses gasket seat. The gasket seat plugs I've done call for somewhere around 20-25 ft*lbs of torque on installation, while the Mazda's service manual called for 8-10 ft*lbs.

I was surprised and had to double check when I read that spec. 10 ft*lbs is nearly "finger tight with a quarter inch drive ratchet"! Hard to believe the plugs will actually stay in, but then they seem to have plenty of threads.

Am I right in concluding that ~10 vs ~20 ft*lbs is a difference governed by the presence or absence of a crush washer to seal against the head? Is this because the taper seat offers a better seal and so less torque is necessary, or is it because the gasket simply allows more torque to be applied safely?
 
Can't say that I've run into any tapered seats either with aluminum. I'm nervous enough dealing with aluminum heads to do anything other than manufacturer spec.
 
Originally Posted By: Rand
Originally Posted By: BigD1
Yes that tapered torque sounds right. I hand tighten to finger tight, and then 1/8 inch on the ratchet. Autolite recommends only 1/16 inch past finger tight on 14 and 18mm tapered seat.

Autolite Torque Specifications For Proper Spark Plug Installation


1/8 inch or 1/8 turn?


Turn. But according to Autolite 1/16 turn was enough for my application, but it did not feel tight enough to me.
 
Well, good to know. I probably did do the equivalent of about 1/8 turn after seating as well in this case. I think I probably went just over 10.

Thanks for the ngk installation link -- I guess it is a tapered vs gasket seal thing.
 
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