02 Silverado 5.3L Knock Sensors

[Gito]

2002 Chevy Silverado 5.3L

I have part number 12589867 for the knock sensors and part number 12601822 for the harness.

Dealer will give me a 10 percent off my total which includes of $105.00 x2 for the Knock sensors and 64.38 for the wire harness.

A second dealer can sell me the sensors for $70.00 a piece.

My opinion, way too expensive.

I found these sensors with the same part number on Amazon, but don't know for sure if they are Genuine like stated.

http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-GM-1258986...ywords=12589867

These particular sensors from Amazon are sold by General Motors.

Are these sensors legit.

Many tell me to replace the knock sensors since I'm already working on the intake gasket.

Please advise

 

[Ramblejam]

Here's what you want: http://amzn.com/B000K02EDG

 

[Gito]

Originally Posted By: Ramblejam
Here's what you want: http://amzn.com/B000K02EDG


Are these sensors the same as the dealer Genuine ones?

Are there any Part Numbers or Manufacture Names detailed on the original knock sensors that came with these trucks?

 

[wirelessF]

Originally Posted By: Ramblejam
Here's what you want: http://amzn.com/B000K02EDG


Definitely legit OEM. Did the intake gasket + knock sensors (I did use a Dorman brand KS harness) two years ago with no issues so far.

 

[danthaman1980]

Originally Posted By: Gito

Many tell me to replace the knock sensors since I'm already working on the intake gasket.


They told me the same thing when I replaced my intake gaskets. I ignored them and left the knock sensors alone. If it ain't broke...

However, if you want to go ahead and replace them - OE (AC Delco brand) knock sensors are like $44 each on Rockauto.com

 

[Merkava_4]

Go with the ACDelco from RockAuto.

Here's the discount code:

3716939033825278

Expires 12-20-15

 

[SteveSRT8]

No reason to replace them if they aren't throwing a code or the engine is knocking/pinging excessively.

 

[crazyoildude]

why are u replacing them?

 

[spasm3]

I see no reason to replace them unless there is a known problem. You can see if they work, using a timing light.

 

[Gito]

Don't really want to pull the intake manifold again......those injector clips were a pain, one of the triggers broke and I had to get it off carefully.

Insurance I guess, but if more bad will come out of it then maybe I should leave them in.

I do get a lot of pinging and knocking but don't know if the knock sensors are to blame...if so...another reason to replace them..

How do you use a timing light to check sensors?

 

[spasm3]

Look at the fly wheel with the light,had a friend rap on the side of the block with a small hammer near the sensors with the engine running ( be careful) you should see the timing retard when he hits the block.

 

[bama7x57]

Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Go with the ACDelco from RockAuto.

Here's the discount code:

3716939033825278

Expires 12-20-15


I bought mine from Rock auto. Mine were throwing a code and the engine ran horribly. Upon researching I discovered these engines don't like to be pressure washed (which is what killed mine). The water gets into the valley and drowns out the knock sensors.

 

[dailydriver]

Originally Posted By: bama7x57
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Go with the ACDelco from RockAuto.

Here's the discount code:

3716939033825278

Expires 12-20-15


I bought mine from Rock auto. Mine were throwing a code and the engine ran horribly. Upon researching I discovered these engines don't like to be pressure washed (which is what killed mine). The water gets into the valley and drowns out the knock sensors.


Yes, I found out the same thing, the same hard way.

BTW; if the OP is doing things "for insurance" and not wanting to remove the manifold again, he should also replace the knock sensor grommets AND the valley cover gasket while he is 'in there'.

 

[Gito]

About to completely remove the intake manifold.
Noticed a plug connector at the rear of manifold.
Looks like a clip.

Everything else has been removed, except for that connector.
Does this connector come off easily?
Going to have to use a mirror

 

[The_Eric]

2 pin? If so, that's the knock sensor harness. The clip should just bite into the plastic intake. Just unplug it and wiggle the clip off the intake.

 

[Islandvic]

Be sure to add black RTV silicone around the knock sensor boots to keep water out of the sensors.

I did the knock sensors and wiring harness replacement on a 2005 Suburban Z-71 my wife used to drive. It was throwing a code.

Go ahead and replace the intake manifold gaskets. I think the ones with the green rubber material is the "upgraded" version if I'm not mistaken.

I used Delphi brand I think. I got everything from Rock Auto using their usual 5% off coupon.

Good luck.

 

[Gito]

Here are some pictures of the removed Intake Manifold

https://elcarro.shutterfly.com/pictures/31

 

[Gito]

Question

Is the Knock Sensor wire harness routed thru the back/rear of the manifold?
When I pulled out the manifold I did not see how the harness was routed.

I can't imagine the harness traveling thru the middle of the intake manifold.

 

[Gito]

Everything came off OK.
The Evaporator line interfered a little but I managed to wrestle the manifold out carefully.

Left the original knock sensors in.

Putting everything back was not that easy.

The foam blocking pads (don't know what else to call them) on the ends of the manifold kept on falling off while I was trying to position the manifold back into place.

I decided to use black electrical tape to hold up the pads.

I positioned the new Felpro intake gaskets into place and noticed that I had not cleaned the areas where the gasket hooks rested. The grease and gunk in that area was preventing the Intake Gasket from resting properly.

Cleaned up the area pretty good and positioned the intake gaskets back into place.
The gaskets were able to lay flat on the metal intake.

After finally positioning the intake manifold into place, I began to torque the manifold bolts down on to the intake.

Used the proper tightening pattern that I got online and proceeded to torque all of the bolts to 44 in/lbs (Note: its inch pounds). Then went back and re-torqued the bolts down to 89 in/lbs.

Positioned the throttle body into place and screwed in the bottom right TORX bolt back into the throttle body. I had previously removed the the bolt because this bolt would not allow the throttle body to come out all the way. I did not want to remove the coolant lines. It worked.

Next I connected all the plugs back into their matching connector plugs.

I carefully reconnected the injector plugs, connected all other hardware and then installed the air cleaner assembly.

Put the cover on last.

Double checked every bolt and checked to see if there were screwed in.

Connected the negative battery cable back on to the battery

Grabbed my keys and fired up the truck.

Started fine.