how to remove a drain plug

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Couple years ago, I had the dealer rebuild the front diff on my truck, under a TSB. Week later, I found a cross-threaded lug (one wheel comes off to do the diff). Took it back, and they installed a damaged lug. [Had a local garage replace the stud.] Today I decided it was time to change the front diff oil.

Took an hour of swearing, but finally got the 10mm hex drive fill plug out--after hammering in the socket, the splines were fixed--best I can tell, the tool slipped and stripped when the fill was installed.

After at least an hour, I'm giving up on the drain. Same 10mm hex. No amount of heaving on a 2' breaker would move it. I got out my impact; no go after several minutes. Upon inspection, the splines of the on the drain are wallowing out. The hex drive bit is fine; I'm guessing it is a harder grade of steel than the drain bolt.

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If I take it to the local shop, are they apt to just weld a bolt on, then wrench on it with a "real" impact? Maybe the heat of welding will bust loose the threads?

Do I run the risk of the aluminum diff housing cracking?

Grr...
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I had to take my truck to my local repair shop to get them to heat a tranny drain plug. After they got it out I reinstalled it, drove home and did the drain and fill at home.
 
Stupid frustrating. Lying on my back with a blowtorch does not interest me...

I'm kinda afraid to go back to the dealer. "Hey, you guys screwed up--but you'll fix this, right?" I'm worried they'd bust the diff housing, then I'd be on the hook for a new diff--but at dealer prices. As it is, I'm afraid (now) at what else would break. Clearly the moron who did the work used an impact wrench on *everything*. I'm just glad the diff isn't making noise (yet).

I'll call the local garage on Monday, and pick a day to take off from work so they can take the bolt out for me. I could stand to burn some vacation time, but I never liked taking days off for a vehicle repair.
 
Use and old ratchet (don't want to bugger a good one), hammer the socket in there tight and give the ratchet a few good smacks with a 32oz dead blow hammer. It will come out.
 
I don't think a deadblow will do it--the splines are giving out.

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Heat is your friend. Just heat up the area around the plug and it should pop right out. The aluminum will expand, breaking the bond. Propane should be hot enough. Thank me later.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Cold chisel and a hammer.
BTDT I have a selection of chisels, punches and drifts. I learned a new approach to try before the chisel. A 1 pound ball peen hammer to tap the wallowed out aluminum back into hole. Carefully clean out the hole with a pick. Tap the hex wrench straight in. apply torque. It works more times than it doesn't
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The case is aluminum and the drain plug steel, heat is probably not the best thing.
Heat could be a good thing if some moron used red loctite on it.
 
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If you can get the fill plug out and use a fluid extractor, I'd drain it that way. Refill it, take it for a ride and repeat.
 
A nice fluid extractor will solve the drain problem. Amazon has some good ones. We just used mine today to drain the oil in my son's V6 Camry. Air Power America 5060.
 
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Originally Posted By: supton
I don't think a deadblow will do it--the splines are giving out.

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You know how they strip that?
It is done not with an impact. It is done by using a Metric hex instead of SAE or vice versa.
 
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Originally Posted By: HerrStig
A nice fluid extractor will solve the drain problem. Amazon has some good ones. We just used mine today to drain the oil in my son's V6 Camry. Air Power America 5060.


This, or just make the current fill lifetime. I wouldn't do anything else to try and remove that drain plug, that's just asking for trouble.
 
I'd hammer in a square screw extractor and if I couldn't get enough bite, I'd drill a hole through the plug and hammer the extractor in again. Drilling a thru-hole would allow me to get the extractor in deeper for more bite. The extractor tells you which drill to use.

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