02' Silverado 1500 5.3L Intake Manifold Gasket-

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Will be attempting to replace the Intake Manifold Gasket on a 2002 Chevy Silverado 5.3 L with 286,000 miles.
Have never done this before.

Would like to know if there are any things to watch out for.
Some say that the wire harness and other components under the cover might be brittle and might require changing. Others say to be careful because you might end up breaking or separating plastic parts.

I got a quote of 400 dollars with dealer parts and labor from a guy who works at the dealer but does side jobs.
400 bucks seems a little too much.

I also have read that I should replace the Nox sensors since I'm working in the area.
Also heard that it is a good idea to seal an opening in the area where the Nox sensors are at. Still not sure how or where they are talking about.

Drove our truck to this other shop to get a quote and they told me that I should replace the Manifold because they are always turn out to be warped.

I want to use Genuine parts so I will be getting the gaskets from the dealer.
Does anyone here have the part numbers to the gaskets or gasket kit.

One last thing, to replace a valve cover gasket on a Civic is a piece of cake. How difficult is it to replace the valve cover gaskets on these trucks.

Any advice greatly appreciated....I will need it.
 
My mechanic did my 01 Tahoe last year. The Fel Pro updated gasket is about 50.00. Honestly, an hour of labor, maybe a bit more.

I also heard about creating a silicon ridge around the knock sensors... might as well try it. I elected not to.

I think the biggest issue with the knock sensors is power washing your engine bay, which I don't do.

$400.00 seems very steep. I think I paid my mechanic around 175-200.00....
 
Originally Posted By: Gito
Will be attempting to replace the Intake Manifold Gasket on a 2002 Chevy Silverado 5.3 L with 286,000 miles.
Have never done this before.

Would like to know if there are any things to watch out for.
Some say that the wire harness and other components under the cover might be brittle and might require changing. Others say to be careful because you might end up breaking or separating plastic parts.

I got a quote of 400 dollars with dealer parts and labor from a guy who works at the dealer but does side jobs.
400 bucks seems a little too much.

I also have read that I should replace the Nox sensors since I'm working in the area.
Also heard that it is a good idea to seal an opening in the area where the Nox sensors are at. Still not sure how or where they are talking about.

Drove our truck to this other shop to get a quote and they told me that I should replace the Manifold because they are always turn out to be warped.

I want to use Genuine parts so I will be getting the gaskets from the dealer.
Does anyone here have the part numbers to the gaskets or gasket kit.

One last thing, to replace a valve cover gasket on a Civic is a piece of cake. How difficult is it to replace the valve cover gaskets on these trucks.

Any advice greatly appreciated....I will need it.




Get the Fel-Pro gasket.
 
Last edited:
It is easy peasy. Dry intake. Get the updated Fel-Pro gasket.
Take your time. Becareful as the oil pressure sending unit is at the back of the block on the top and if you are not careful you can break it when removing the intake.

Just pull the fuel rail and injectors as a unit and move them to the side, it will give you enough room.

Yes replace the knock sensors. Don't bother with garabage aftermakret ones...I did and had to go back in. I just got them from the dealer after that for like 30 dollars more. It is damp in Washington so I did do the RTV around my knock snesors.

Have not heard of these warping. I guess it could happen. The only other caution I have is just be careful putting the manifold back on. You don't want to over tighen the fasteners.
I think it is 10 in/lbs. I just put them in tight.

It is really straight foward. May take you 2 hours on your first time. Good luck!
 
Took me 2 days to do it for a first timer and jumping around other errands. With that much miles I'd replace the knock sensors and the wire harness too. When I did mines I completely sealed the rubber plugs with RTV since I pressure wash the engine regularly. I also removed the front and rear foam pieces under the intake so dirt and water can pass through.

I used ACDelco knock sensors, Dorman wire harness and the Felpro Permadry intake gaskets. 2 years no issues so far.

Original intake gasket, rusted rear knock sensor (threw a P0332 code) and original harness.
Lp7bvbA.jpg
 
I doubt the truck is much different, I've had the intakes off LS cars in what seems like about 25 minutes. The first time I removed one I couldn't believe how much easier it was than I expected. I have never heard of an intake warping on these engines, maybe the trucks have a different problem but I would be surprised.
 
Originally Posted By: ls1mike
It is easy peasy. Dry intake. Get the updated Fel-Pro gasket.
Take your time. Becareful as the oil pressure sending unit is at the back of the block on the top and if you are not careful you can break it when removing the intake.

Just pull the fuel rail and injectors as a unit and move them to the side, it will give you enough room.

Yes replace the knock sensors. Don't bother with garabage aftermakret ones...I did and had to go back in. I just got them from the dealer after that for like 30 dollars more. It is damp in Washington so I did do the RTV around my knock snesors.

Have not heard of these warping. I guess it could happen. The only other caution I have is just be careful putting the manifold back on. You don't want to over tighen the fasteners.
I think it is 10 in/lbs. I just put them in tight.

It is really straight foward. May take you 2 hours on your first time. Good luck!



Interesting that you pull the injectors and rail. I never have.

The torque if I remember correctly is 89 in/lbs.
 
Originally Posted By: wirelessF
I also removed the front and rear foam pieces under the intake so dirt and water can pass through.

Lp7bvbA.jpg




So did I....
 
Originally Posted By: The_Eric
Originally Posted By: ls1mike
It is easy peasy. Dry intake. Get the updated Fel-Pro gasket.
Take your time. Becareful as the oil pressure sending unit is at the back of the block on the top and if you are not careful you can break it when removing the intake.

Just pull the fuel rail and injectors as a unit and move them to the side, it will give you enough room.

Yes replace the knock sensors. Don't bother with garabage aftermakret ones...I did and had to go back in. I just got them from the dealer after that for like 30 dollars more. It is damp in Washington so I did do the RTV around my knock snesors.

Have not heard of these warping. I guess it could happen. The only other caution I have is just be careful putting the manifold back on. You don't want to over tighen the fasteners.
I think it is 10 in/lbs. I just put them in tight.

It is really straight foward. May take you 2 hours on your first time. Good luck!



Interesting that you pull the injectors and rail. I never have.

The torque if I remember correctly is 89 in/lbs.

Well I pulled the intake all the way out to clean it.
 
I think I'm going to tackle it myself.

Just a few questions, why is everyone recommending the updated Fel-Pro gaskets and whats wrong with using the Dealer gaskets? Who makes the dealer manifold intake gaskets?

I don't want to make a mistake and get the wrong parts.
I found this

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JIWE...mp;sr=8-1-fkmr0

Also need the part numbers for the wire harness and the knock sensors for my 2002 5.3L Silverado.

Having trouble finding an OEM wire harness and the OEM knick sensors
 
Does anybody have a photo or illustration of how to do the silicone around the knock sensors? I read the TSB about it long ago, something about making a silicone dam. It didn't make a lot of sense without pictures.
 
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