Slow Tire leak...have tried everything

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I have a slow tire leak on a pretty new tire that I plugged up after getting a nail in it.

Dunking the tire in a dunk tank never shows any bubbles neither does spraying it with soapy water.

I had a shop dismount the wheel and check for leaks. They couldn't find any and feel that the problem is the plug.

They refuse to patch it from the inside citing some incompatibility of sorts....more than one shop has refused to do so on the same grounds so there must be some truth to it.

They replugged it and same issue.

Normally I'd do as many would say e.g. put more air in it periodically....but I am overwhelmed with working on all of my numerous other vehicles.

The vehicle is also an AWD and I'd hate to forget to fill the tire for too long and wreck the center diff.

I know that things like slime are messy etc., but this is just one tire/wheel.

Is there anything out there that works? I have used stuff in a can in the past (back in the 90s from a big box store in a red can that was marketed as permanent tire seal...I followed the instructions and never had any leaks or balance issues)...can't find that stuff anymore.

I read more bad things out there than good about slime (and I am not talking about mess either but durability).

The tire shop refuses to patch and wants me to buy a new tire of some different brand...not feeling that on an AWD vehicle that has 4 of the same tires with almost brand new tread...and no I didn't purchase roadside and it is too late to at this point.

There has got to be something out there that works.

Thanks for any info.
 
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If the hole is close to the edge of the tread (within 1 inch) you really should replace the tire. Tires flex too much in that region for plugs and patches to hold. Look for a used tire the same size and with about the same amount of tread left.
 
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I use the instant spare stuff with fair results. I've heard Slime is better. I would love to find a single good used Bridgestone for the Rat. So I feel your pain regarding sets on AWD cars.
 
The AWD issue is a pain. After my last go-around, I bought a matching wheel and added a fifth tire into the rotation when I bought a new set. If I lose one, I'll still have a complete set.

Good luck. It may be just too much flex for that plug.
 
I'm curious: what is the diameter of the hole-and-plug? I'm curious why they'd refuse to patch it, unless the hole is too large or it's too close to the shoulder. In fact, using only a plug is not the proper way to repair a tire. I'm not blaming you -- that's all you have on the side of the road -- but I'm curious why a tire shop would not want to take the tire off and make that a correct repair.
 
If you have a tire pressure sensor, don't use fix a flat type chemicals. It'll damage the sensor. Remove the plug & do a 1 piece plug/patch. Find another shop that will do it, or have the tire shop just R&R the tire & do the patch yourself
 
If it doesn't have a TPMS sensor, I'd say go for it with the Slime. It's probably a pain for the garage next time you get a new set mounted, but I know my dad's stopped more than a couple slow leaks with it back in the day (before all our cars had sensors).

Also, any chance the slow leak is from somewhere else (bead, valve or valve core)?
 
If you are pretty confident it's not the plug, it's logical to look elsewhere. Rim?

I had this issue on my SUV a few years ago. Les Schwab finally dismounted the tire and said the inner rim was rough enough in a spot and that was the source. They ground it smoothly and re-mounted the tire and the problem was gone. No charge, either, since they did the original mounting.
 
Buy a tube. They are still available. A patch should still be placed on the hole to keep water out but with a tube the air will stay in.
 
I use the fix a flat in a can. To do it "right", deflate the tire all the way (car on a jack) then dump it in then top off with air and go for a spin to slosh it around. I overinflate to about 45-50 PSI figuring it will help jam the fix a flat into whatever hole better before it hardens.

And I have access to tire unmounting gear, just lazy to use it. I do use it for bead leaks, so I can grind my rims shiny.
 
Have you checked the valve? Try rotating the tire to a position with the valve facing up, remove the cap and put a few drops of water or spray a little window cleaner (or something similar) into the valve and look for bubbles. If it appears to be leaking the valve can be easily tightened or replace using a kit sold at any store that sells stuff like Slime.
 
Walmart tire will plug a leak for $10. I'd take it to them since they helped me with a puncture. It was actually a super hard piece of plastic that pierced the tire. The guy mentioned he's never seen that before.
 
I have had trouble locating very small leaks, that would not make a bubble, but they sometimes will show up when the tire has like only 5psi of air in while checking. At higher pressures the small jet of air leaking just blows right through the soap. And check the inside barrel of the wheel too, and stem.
 
Instead of guessing where the leak is, go back and find it. I too have never had a leak I couldn't find. It just takes patience and soapy water. Slow leaks will develop a foamy area after a few minutes. Check all of the tire, including casing, bead and valve. Then decide on how to fix it.
 
It is possible the plug is leaking when the plug goes through the contact patch.

It is also possible the tire is leaking at the rim/tire interface as the tire rolls.

Both of those would explain why you can't find the leak.
 
buy 1 matching tire and have it shaved to match the other 3.

buy 4 new tires and sell old ones on craigslist.

give us the actual information we need?

examples: make and model of car
where the hole is at on tire.
 
I would pump the tire up to about 80 PSI and then check for slow bubbles.

You can check for economical bubble solutions. 20% or so dishwashing liquid and 80% water is pretty good and cheap.
 
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