My cousins husband has a 15 foot fiberglass boat with a side console (not sure of brand right now) with a 1976 model 35 Evinrude. He wants it out of his yard and decided to give it to me, only bad things are the floor needs to be redone, its usable for now, and it has a long foot, I'll try to find a short foot for it later. He redid the carbs on it a few months ago and just changed the impeller, he said it runs great. My question is, how good are these old OMC motors in terms of durability and reliability, and are parts still plentiful?
1976 Evinrude 35
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Very reliable motors. Personally prefer the 2 strokes over newer 4 stokes. They were lighter and more zip out of the hole. Be sure to use right amount of oil. I always liked the synthetic 2 stroke oil knowing it is less likely to foul plugs as there is no ash in it.
I'm not a huge old-school Evinrude fan, although I know people who run them and like them. Biggest issue I have with them is thr ruggedness of the lower unit, but if you don't run the boat in lakes or rivers with marine hazards (rock bottom, vegetation with roots, flooded areas, deadheads, etc) that won't be an issue. Make sure you carry prop pins.
I do have to disagree with those who feel a two-stroke at that power level is the way to go. You should be using the existing 2-stroke because you are interested in not spending money on the boat and simply running it.
Fuel consumption is significantly-enough higher in the 2-stroke vs the 4-strokes that you will spend perhaps 30% more on fuel per mile. It could be higher, depends on the condition of your existing motor.
On top of the higher fuel consumption, you have to include the cost of 2-stroke oil, and the older motors require a higher ratio than modern 2-strokes. Taken together, it's a significant enough difference that your fuel costs could be twice as high per mile vs a 4-stroke.
Power out of the hole is a function of the higher torque of the 2-stroke at lower (off-idle) RPMs vs a 4-stroke, but prop pitch and motor trim is a bigger factor than the power curve regardless.
I don't know how much you will be pulling skiers with a 35/15 foot but personally I think if that's your requirement you need more power anyway. Aside from the power out of the hole, there is no advantage to the 2-stroke power-wise.
It's OK as far as I'm concerned to run the existing motor and keep sitting on your wallet ... fuel costs are going to be an issue but nobody ever saved money by buying a new motor (or new vehicle) versus the fuel cost savings. Ever.
Having said that, if you are going to spend money on the boat, regardless of the fuel issue, a new motor in a fuel-injected 4-stroke configuration is without question the way to go. I like Mercury and Yamaha at the power level outboards you probably would be looking at for that hull.
My experience with boats could be summed up as pilot over roughly 70,000 miles / 20,000 hours in outboard powered 16~18' aluminum hulls; 9.9, 15, 20, 25, 40 HP 2-strokes, 40, 50, 60, 75, 80 and 90 HP tiller-equipped 4-strokes.
I do have to disagree with those who feel a two-stroke at that power level is the way to go. You should be using the existing 2-stroke because you are interested in not spending money on the boat and simply running it.
Fuel consumption is significantly-enough higher in the 2-stroke vs the 4-strokes that you will spend perhaps 30% more on fuel per mile. It could be higher, depends on the condition of your existing motor.
On top of the higher fuel consumption, you have to include the cost of 2-stroke oil, and the older motors require a higher ratio than modern 2-strokes. Taken together, it's a significant enough difference that your fuel costs could be twice as high per mile vs a 4-stroke.
Power out of the hole is a function of the higher torque of the 2-stroke at lower (off-idle) RPMs vs a 4-stroke, but prop pitch and motor trim is a bigger factor than the power curve regardless.
I don't know how much you will be pulling skiers with a 35/15 foot but personally I think if that's your requirement you need more power anyway. Aside from the power out of the hole, there is no advantage to the 2-stroke power-wise.
It's OK as far as I'm concerned to run the existing motor and keep sitting on your wallet ... fuel costs are going to be an issue but nobody ever saved money by buying a new motor (or new vehicle) versus the fuel cost savings. Ever.
Having said that, if you are going to spend money on the boat, regardless of the fuel issue, a new motor in a fuel-injected 4-stroke configuration is without question the way to go. I like Mercury and Yamaha at the power level outboards you probably would be looking at for that hull.
My experience with boats could be summed up as pilot over roughly 70,000 miles / 20,000 hours in outboard powered 16~18' aluminum hulls; 9.9, 15, 20, 25, 40 HP 2-strokes, 40, 50, 60, 75, 80 and 90 HP tiller-equipped 4-strokes.
The late 70's 35 hp Johnson/Evinrude Had the worse gear case known to man. Would engage only 1/8 inch of the dog and gear. Very tricky to reassemble. Smooth powerhead compared to hr 40HP POS it replaced. Yours may not have many hours
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Boats are a money pit always requiring work. Outboards tend to be easier to work on and more reliable. In general boats still use much older technology than cars do.
76 35hp pretty good... will need some care... plugs... good oil... ETH free gas... seafoam... lower unit oil... good prop might be tough to find... gas line from the tank to the engine needs to be replaced... and fuel bulb... basic stuff... my 76 40hp had some issues but think a few were heat soak. Always leave the ramp with a fully charged battery!!
Sounds like a great motor to wrench on... enjoy... I still see lots of these 76 motors still on the water....
Sounds like a great motor to wrench on... enjoy... I still see lots of these 76 motors still on the water....
A lot of parts out there... not a concern...
Will be a little low on power @ 35hp, but certainly not horrible. It will likely need a water pump impeller if the boat hasn't seen use in awhile. Possibly lower-unit seals too. Nothing is cheap or easy with boat ownership.
Floors are easy enough to do, provided you can salvage the existing panels for templates. We re-did the floor on my brother's 16ft some years ago with marine grade plywood, then he coated it with a marine grade blue texture paint. Has held up like new.
Floors are easy enough to do, provided you can salvage the existing panels for templates. We re-did the floor on my brother's 16ft some years ago with marine grade plywood, then he coated it with a marine grade blue texture paint. Has held up like new.
Water pump impeller not a biggy if you got a good spray... replace later... lower unit seals not a biggy... gear oil cheap, replace twice a year... these motors need a good prop... nothing dinged up and poorly repaired... go new or near new...
Trailer tires and bearings... asap...
My start would be gas tank and fuel lines... battery... plugs... good gas and oil... (ETH FREE).
I actually seen 2 of these on boats today... warm DEC. Has people out fishing.
I am near a bunch of HP limited lakes here in upstate NY... these old 35s are worth a bunch up here!!
Trailer tires and bearings... asap...
My start would be gas tank and fuel lines... battery... plugs... good gas and oil... (ETH FREE).
I actually seen 2 of these on boats today... warm DEC. Has people out fishing.
I am near a bunch of HP limited lakes here in upstate NY... these old 35s are worth a bunch up here!!
We also need pics...
Check (my) last post in that topic...
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3801205/'78_15hp_Evinrude_-_2_question#Post3801205
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3801205/'78_15hp_Evinrude_-_2_question#Post3801205
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