1992 Plymouth Acclaim 3.0/V6 cranks but no start

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Dec 3, 2015
Messages
8
Location
Arkansas
Hello everyone. New here and hoping I can get some help...



A conundrum for my fellow gear heads:
1992 Plymouth Acclaim with the Mitsubishi 3.0 V6

1)would start the first try after all the cleaning/treatments
2)then got progressively harder to start but ran perfectly when it started.
3)NOW doesn't start at all (turns over but no start) *Not even with starter fluid*
-New fuel pump relay (it did go out).
-New CTS.
-New battery terminals.
-battery's decent but even with a jump & changing out to a good battery = still the same thing.
-good spark.
-clean air filter.
-fuel pump works & it's getting fuel (has pressure).
-timing belt intact & is moving.
-disconnected MAP with same results.
-can't seem to find the Neutral Switch to clean it (says it runs from the starter solenoid to the trans).
-tried starting in Neutral with same results.
-oil looks/smells good and as it should.

ETA: have checked CEL codes & it's only throwing 12 = "battery has been disconnected within the last 50 key cycles" (back when it was getting hard to start).
But since it's not running now I don't know if it is possible for it to throw any other codes.

Have dropped the gas tank (it was clean), checked the fuel pump (works), and fixed the float while in there.
(while it was running) Have also added Seafoam to the engine & via the brake booster line, Lucas Transmission Fix, Lucas upper cylinder lubricant & Injector cleaner & engine Restore with a fresh oil change (Castrol high mileage 10w40 w/Bosch Premium filter after the Seafoam of course).

Tomorrow I am planning on taking the cat off (in case it is clogged) to see if it starts.


I've been researching & researching & trying things... this car needs to be done in less than a month (a gift) and now this.


Please help!
TIA
 
Well if you're sure you have fuel pressure and spark, the next step would be to check for injector pulse and compression. Not sure I would disconnect the exhaust just yet.

Your symptoms sound like a bad crank sensor to me, but that's just a shot in the dark.
 
Did you put a timing light on spark plug wire 1( or any plug wire really) and see if you have ignition to the spark plugs? Does this engine have a crank position sensor?
 
Last edited:
I haven't checked compression. Old school here lol or more like shade-tree mechanic.
Haven't had this car long and literally know nothing about it, so learning as I go.

Yes, from what I have found it does have a crank position sensor.
Do crank position sensor progressively go bad?
 
Originally Posted By: MudPuppy
I haven't checked compression. Old school here lol or more like shade-tree mechanic.
Haven't had this car long and literally know nothing about it, so learning as I go.

Yes, from what I have found it does have a crank position sensor.
Do crank position sensor progressively go bad?


Yes, they can. That's what leads me to believe that could be it...you'd also still have fuel pressure and spark, but no injector pulse. I just can't figure out why it doesn't stumble with the starter fluid.
 
You need to check for ignition to the plugs, a timing light will do that. If you don't have fire to the plugs, the crank position sensor is suspect as well as an ignition coil. I'm not familiar with this engine, but some ecms will not let the fuel injectors pulse with no crank signal.
 
Last edited:
Ok, will look into that CPS tomorrow. Thanks for the help.
Keep throwing things out there for me, in case this isn't it.

Wish I had a timing light lol (old school here)
Actually don't try to do this for anyone else, just work on my own stuff normally.
And definitely not familiar with this engine either lol another kind of Japanese engines yes but definitely not this one.
 
Explain "-good spark." portion please. And if so, why in the world are you chasing the CPS if you have good spark??

You would have to have broken timing belt for the car not to even attempt to start if you have fuel and spark.

Logically:-
- why would neutral switch matter? you are able to crank.
- if the starter fluid makes no difference, then most likely it is NOT the fuel delivery problem
- can you verify sparks at the spark plug on all cylinders
- does it make a difference if throttle plate is fully open?
- do you smell gas when you take out spark plug after cranking for a while?
- have somebody in the back put his palm on the exhaust and see if compression pulses can be felt there.
- sudden loss of compression without broken timing belt would be almost impossible; one cylinder having low compression is understandable but all of them not having any is not probable
- not getting any air through aka blockage at intake or exhaust is a possibility but should be easily checked and ruled out.
- grossly wrong timing would tend to backfire / sputter / knock etc

Generally, crank no start condition should be one of the easiest thing to diagnosis if logically approached.

Anxiously watching to see how this unfolds
 
Last edited:
There is spark, and then there is spark strong enough to actually start. Check the coil, distributor cap, and rotor closely for cracks. Also watch while cranking in the dark for stray sparks jumping from the ignition parts.

Using a timing light to confirm that #1 fires at or near TDC would be a good test to rule out a lot of timing related problems.
 
When it is cranking, does it sound different? Does it seem to be cranking faster? The timing belt "could" have jumped enough where it won't start. Compression tests or manually checking the indexes on the crank, cam and distributor spockets all line up like they are supposed to.

Do you have a good blue spark present? Don't overlook the basics.
 
Last edited:
Does it start with the throttle slightly open but not throttle closed? If so, AIC valve might be stuck closed.
 
is the fuel filter plugged? I had a no start condition on a mitsubishi mirage and a pontiac sunfire due to the fuel filter.
 
Today:

-removed cat (still no start)
-does have compression pulses (at the end of the header, since cat is off for now)
-checked ALL sparkplugs again, they have spark (can't say if they are strong or not due to not knowing how strong they should be- looked white to me, to another they said they looked like blue sparks)
-can smell gas when plugs are removed after cranking for awhile.
-sparkplugs did have fuel on them.
-have tried everytime (past & present) flooring the gas pedal (per during starting will actually shut off the fuel).
-distributor cap & rotor look fine (no cracks, no discoloration or corrosion). Still need to check the coil.
-when cranking it doesn't sound any different from before (when it would start).
-tapped distributor (since CPS is inside it) while cranking with no change.
-tapped starter & solenoid while cranking with no change.
-the AIC valve was one of many items cleaned previously. Along with the PCV.



Went ahead and picked up some new plugs & wires at the end of the day today, since it probably needs them anyways.


And from 1st post ---> it WON'T start even with starter fluid.
 
Pull the coil wire out of the distributor and hold it near grounded metal. You should be able to get sparks to jump at least 1/2 inch. If you only get weak sparks the coil may be bad.

Turn the crankshaft by hand so the notch on the balancer is at the zero degree mark. Take distributor cap off and confirm that the rotor is pointing toward where the wire for #1 would be. (It may be 180 degrees away from there, in that case turn the crank all the way around exactly once.)

This is a very coarse test to see if the timing belt has skipped. If you can easily take a timing cover off and examine the marks on the cam pulley that would be better.
 
^ that looks like my next course of action. Thanks
Won't be able to do much on it this weekend though.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top