Air Compressors - Somewhat Disappointed...

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JHZR2

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The options in air compressors all leave something to be desired, IMO.

My intended use is a once in a long while use of an air impact gun if/when something is very stubborn or tight and an electric impact is too big or can't handle it.

Not very often...

But I do like to do oil spray for our vehicles, and anticipate doing it more now that we have two new cars. Yes, just once or twice a year, but DIY on that saves me about $250/yr alone, and a more precise and careful job... Granted Im laying on my back.

Anyway, Ive been pretty disappointed by the compressor options. There is always seeming to be something not quite right with every one.

Is the HF belt drive 29 gallon unit really the best thing out there?? LOL.

It has a dual piston, cast iron design, belt drive, and has a slightly better form factor than the similar ones from DeWalt, Porter Cable, Kobalt, etc...

image_24649.jpg


The wheels are obviously worse, but it has a nice aftercooler and better drain location than the one I thought might be my best choice:

product_9191_225.jpg


Or its dewalt twin which is slightly preferable because it has a threaded hole on the side to connect bigger air users...

0846212033197lg.jpg


I saw this one:

9c417d0a-08c1-44b1-99c5-6760bd44e8b9_1000.jpg


which is only 20 gallons but has nice wheels.. But no after cooler (or even a finned outlet tube like the twins above have), and no secondary tap for adding another consumer.

Its like there is something wrong with every one of them, before we talk price, 120/240 wiring, etc.

And to add insult, some are labeled "made in USA", which the tanks I do believe are welded here, but the rest of the parts are Chinese or Mexican.

I did shop Rolair quite a bit, almost bought a 4.6 CFM gas engine pancake, just because it is so small in footprint.

Which is another question - are the short vertical designs better/more preferable or the long horizontal ones, practically speaking?

It would seem that the horizontal ones, especially one like the dewalt shown above, would perform well handling-wise because of low center of gravity.

But the long dimension on the horizontal axis makes them a bigger space hog than, say, a 30 gallon vertical. 23x23" is better than 22x42", even if 42" is due to handles.




So...

If I want a bigger tank than my Makita oil lubed big bore 4.6SCFM@90/4.2gal compressor, what is my best bet? That Makita spins at 1750 RPM and is QUIET. I can stand next to it running and have a low volume conversation with someone. Did just the other day when working on installing a roof on a garden garage.

5.3-5.7 from the units I showed doesn't add much SCFM, but the tanks help to make up for it. I could do 220, but Id rather retain the ability to use a 120V 20A outlet and operate.

Every one has foreign parts, even higher priced brands like Rolair.

Most in this segment are not specified for 100% duty, Rolair is for twice the price.

For spraying cars a few times a year, maybe 5-10 hours of use per year, am I just silly even considering buying one of these? Perhaps just add a big supplemental tank to my Makita, which Im happy with but is small?

Thoughts??

Thanks!
 
Do you need it to be portable? some of those beltdrive uprights, while on wheels will be no fun to roll around.( 150+ lbs) A permanent upright with longer hose, or with hard lines run to where you can connect flex lines might work as well.

I bought an upright single stage compressor, that i still have not had time to wire. ( i'm off in a few weeks and will wire the 220 then).

You may find more uses for one once you have the air supply, air hammers, air guns, spray lacquer for wood projects, Da sander, even just a blow gun for cleaning things.
I mounted mine on a reinforced pallet with wheels so i can roll it, or move it with the front end loader and run it with a generator away from the garage.

I bought this one;
60gallon plenty of air for what i will do, except for sanding or running a hvlp gun it wont run much with a 60 gallon tank.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_54284-1126-VT6362___?productId=3370356&pl=1&Ntt=air+compressor
 
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IR is all Chinese. at least the stuff I saw at TSC.

Ive had a hard time finding CP, though I had in the past. Ill look at Quincy.

I really don't want a 60 gallon unit, I don't see myself using most air tools, I have electrics that work quite well for most things...
 
Originally Posted By: spasm3
Do you need it to be portable? some of those beltdrive uprights, while on wheels will be no fun to roll around.( 150+ lbs) A permanent upright with longer hose, or with hard lines run to where you can connect flex lines might work as well.



Ive played with a few wheeled ones in the stores and its not a big deal if just moving it a bit to get closer to a job or to store it someplace out of the way. My use is very sporadic. I figure wheels will allow for a better tilt to drain it better and prevent rust build up.
 
If you are painting a full car in one session then these little guys will not work. You could maybe do a fender at a time then wait 15 minutes for tank to fill. Your paint job would suffer. To paint a full car all at once you need a minimum of a 60 gal tank. Even with a 60 you are just getting by. Of course I'm using a old school spray gun. The new low pressure ones might have different requirements. Not to mention the tools used in autobody & painting would bury that little compressor.
 
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I have that Porter Cable, and have used it for your intended use. It works, and fairly well. It'll kick on for about a minute for every minute of spraying, which is exactly what it's rated for. The pump is quiet compared to an oilless, and would likely be quieter with some Solberg-style filters on it. Which just might happen because the OEM filters aren't at all impressive. Compared to your Makita, it's likely a bit louder. For a drain, adding on an extension wasn't a big deal, and put the drain valve into a much better spot.

I passed over the HF one because its tank design is the worst of both worlds. It's too big around so it sticks out quite a bit, and it's not short enough to be able to fit under anything. The PC/DeWalt unit is considerably skinnier/taller, so it's able to fit into the same footprint as a toolbox bottom cabinet. That's a nice party trick to be able to be put flush with a tool cabinet. Also, the drain would need the compressor to be tipped forward to drain completely. I don't know how much you were able to maneuver these around, but they're cumbersome with most of their 150 lbs or so up top. Mine doesn't like to be tipped much off vertical for transporting it. Where the drain is on that HF unit looked like an accident waiting to happen tipping the unit to drain it completely.

Just my $0.02 from having looked at all those units, and my experiences with my 30 gallon Porter Cable.
 
Originally Posted By: skulldrinker
If you are painting a full car in one session then these little guys will not work. You could maybe do a fender at a time then wait 15 minutes for tank to fill. Your paint job would suffer. To paint a full car all at once you need a minimum of a 60 gal tank. Even with a 60 you are just getting by. Of course I'm using a old school spray gun. The new low pressure ones might have different requirements. Not to mention the tools used in autobody & painting would bury that little compressor.


I don't think he plans to paint a car, looks like he wants to spray fluid film or some corrosion protection .
 
Buy more hose? Last weekend I picked up a second fifty foot air line, and had no problems zipping off lugs nor spraying Flyid Film.
 
Originally Posted By: skulldrinker
If you are painting a full car in one session then these little guys will not work. You could maybe do a fender at a time then wait 15 minutes for tank to fill. Your paint job would suffer. To paint a full car all at once you need a minimum of a 60 gal tank. Even with a 60 you are just getting by. Of course I'm using a old school spray gun. The new low pressure ones might have different requirements. Not to mention the tools used in autobody & painting would bury that little compressor.


I'm not painting any car. That's a job left to the pros, which I have no desire to do...

I'm spraying oil for rustproofing once in a while...
 
Originally Posted By: supton
Buy more hose? Last weekend I picked up a second fifty foot air line, and had no problems zipping off lugs nor spraying Flyid Film.


What pump, cfm rating and what tank size?

An aux air tank mounted in the rafters of my garage is an option.
 
Originally Posted By: sciphi
I have that Porter Cable, and have used it for your intended use. It works, and fairly well. It'll kick on for about a minute for every minute of spraying, which is exactly what it's rated for. The pump is quiet compared to an oilless, and would likely be quieter with some Solberg-style filters on it. Which just might happen because the OEM filters aren't at all impressive. Compared to your Makita, it's likely a bit louder. For a drain, adding on an extension wasn't a big deal, and put the drain valve into a much better spot.

I passed over the HF one because its tank design is the worst of both worlds. It's too big around so it sticks out quite a bit, and it's not short enough to be able to fit under anything. The PC/DeWalt unit is considerably skinnier/taller, so it's able to fit into the same footprint as a toolbox bottom cabinet. That's a nice party trick to be able to be put flush with a tool cabinet. Also, the drain would need the compressor to be tipped forward to drain completely. I don't know how much you were able to maneuver these around, but they're cumbersome with most of their 150 lbs or so up top. Mine doesn't like to be tipped much off vertical for transporting it. Where the drain is on that HF unit looked like an accident waiting to happen tipping the unit to drain it completely.

Just my $0.02 from having looked at all those units, and my experiences with my 30 gallon Porter Cable.


Thanks!

I have a craigslist lead on that unit, new in box, and it's a decent deal. I couldn't decide which form factor I liked better, but your angle is compelling.

Did you rewire yours for 240?
 
I have a 20 year old WW Grainger Dayton version of the one below and it is still running strong. Back then, it actually was made in the USA. CH is an established company with good parts availability. The company linked is in NJ, so maybe you could avoid shipping.

http://www.thetoolworkshop.com/campbell-hausfeld20glhorzaircompressorvt6290.aspx
http://www.chpower.com/cgi-bin/lansaweb?webapp=CHPSRMNL+webrtn=WR_SRMNL+Partition=CHP+f%28STDRENTRY%29=S+f%28S01SRCHKY%29=VT6290

4c78c815-fae5-436c-91b5-8838b4cb31d4_1000.jpg



ASTM tank. "USA made".
 
That horizontal DeWalt looks very similar to my 25 year old Sanborn parallel twin. I see it's offered today with that nameplate, and others. I'm a DIY, so that will give you an idea of how long it'll last with your usage, but I replaced the drain valve once. It was Made in US back then. Mine's run on a 120V 15A outlet most of its life, though I rewired it once for 240V, just because.

I'd like a vertical now, for space, but I don't use air much anymore. When I bought the Sanborn I could get it into the hatch of my '90 Integra (transporting anything I bought was an issue).
 
In my experience, if it runs 110v it is weak. You need the juice that only 220v can offer. Ive had a few 110v compressors but use the 60 gallon husky from depot. Pretty decent for the money.
 
Your biggest item you plan to use is a spray gun. The others dont require anything too big in terms of compressor size. Look for the air powered spraygun and see what requirements it needs and buy something that is just a tad larger than that. I have been looking at them also and I agree..alot seem to lack something or other. I decided to hold off since I would likely want a huge one.. i dont want to have to make the mistake of buying twice.
 
For those people who have the room go for a 60 gallon unit. I did and can honestly say it was a worth while investment. Having the air and the power to power just about any air tool is a big plus. I was amazed at what I was missing out on having a smaller portable unit. I rust proofed my Jeep in October and was amazed how much easier it was with the bigger unit. Using impact guns and wrenches is night and day over smaller units as well. Once you get the bug there's nothing more disappointing than wanting a tool and finding out your machine can't power it properly. JMO
 
Originally Posted By: doitmyself
I have a 20 year old WW Grainger Dayton version of the one below and it is still running strong. Back then, it actually was made in the USA. CH is an established company with good parts availability. The company linked is in NJ, so maybe you could avoid shipping.

http://www.thetoolworkshop.com/campbell-hausfeld20glhorzaircompressorvt6290.aspx
http://www.chpower.com/cgi-bin/lansaweb?webapp=CHPSRMNL+webrtn=WR_SRMNL+Partition=CHP+f%28STDRENTRY%29=S+f%28S01SRCHKY%29=VT6290

4c78c815-fae5-436c-91b5-8838b4cb31d4_1000.jpg



ASTM tank. "USA made".


We have the same model, (it was called a "Farm Hand" from TSC) GREAT compressors, CAST IRON pumps run quieter. I ran this thing continuously one summer with a Dual Orbit sander, the MAJOR problem with these is they have the output right by the input, so if ran close to continuous you will end up with water in your air hose.

The first thing you do is replace the drain cock with a 1/4 turn valve. These compressors are slow starting below freezing, even with synthetic oil.

To keep the water out of the air hose, we have a 5 ft long inverted "U" shaped black pipe on wall, drain valves at the ends and the air compressor/air hose connects in half way up the verticals, gives the air enough time to condense before entering air hose.

Mine has been abused(running a spray gun and orbital six hours straight) I do have shavings in the oil, but it keeps going.
 
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You will not be happy with any of them I surely wouldn't I would look at true 5hp min and and approximately 15cfm or better and if looking at something rated for 175psi even better in fact I wouldn't look at one that wasn't.
 
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