Had to replace a lug bolt

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There was a little bit of wheel shake during moderate braking, I went check out the recently newly installed brake pads / rotors, when removing one of the lug nuts, the nut came loose then tightened up. Don't know why, didnt appear to be cross threaded. FYI, this is the 1st time I worked on the car as we just purchased this a couple of months ago for my daughter. Anyway, this was the only nut that was stuck. I proceeds to remove it with a cross tire iron and the nut made it to the tip of the bolt and then the bolt snapped with the nut stuck on it. I went to the Toyota dealer 5 min away from me and got a new lug bolt & lug nut for under $7. Had to remove the dust shield first, but hammered the old bolt out and hammered the new one in. Cleaned and lubed the pads/calipers/rotors and now everything is good. I thought at first I had to replace the entire hub because of the broken bolt, thank goodness it was a cheap and easy fix
 
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usually happens when the previous person to work on vehicle got happy with the impact wrench.

Stretches the threads then next time... that happens.
 
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At least the lug came out. Dealership crossthreaded one on me, and I used a 3' cheater to muscle it off.

I let a local shop put in a lug, and worried about them hammering it out and back in; but they probably know better than I. That garage did say the lugs looked worn, and that they see that often, but the rest were ok to use. I'm guessing the lugs are softer than the studs, and might wear over time, so perhaps at some point I ought to think of buying a new set.

At least you only have to go to 90ft-lbs! I have to go 154!
mad.gif
 
Originally Posted By: artbuc
Title should be how not to remove/install wheel stud. Hammering can damage the wheel bearing.


90% of mechanics all over the country, to include dealerships, will do it this way. Yes a press is the proper way to do it, but almost no one takes the time to disassemble everything when it be hammered in 5 minutes.
 
An extra large "C" clamp and a deep socket will usually get the new on in, without disassembling the hub. Getting the old one out with clamps is definitely more challenging, but it can be done.

After replacement, it is wise to recheck the tightness of the lugs at intervals, since is it possible for the lug to seat a bit more, loosening the lug nut.
 
You might update with the commonly used terms.

You broke a "lug stud", not a "lug bolt".

Lug bolts are used on many European cars. They screw into a threaded hub. The wheels are typically hub-centric -- centered by fitting snugly over a slightly conical hub protrusion.

Studs are used on most U.S. and Asian cars. They have splined or knurled shoulders that are semi-permanently pressed into the hub, with Lug nuts used to hold the wheel on. Studs used to be used for centering the wheel "lug-centric", but most uses have switch to hub-centric.

It's rare for wheel bolts to fail, and they are trivially replaced when they do. It's common for studs to fail, and they are a minor PITA when they do.
 
Couldn't one just put on a lug nut backwards to pull it in (cone side out)? That's how I put them in, I never thought about knocking them out damaging the hub bearing, some of those must be even more fragile than I thought...
 
Originally Posted By: djb
You might update with the commonly used terms.

You broke a "lug stud", not a "lug bolt".

Lug bolts are used on many European cars. They screw into a threaded hub. The wheels are typically hub-centric -- centered by fitting snugly over a slightly conical hub protrusion.

Studs are used on most U.S. and Asian cars. They have splined or knurled shoulders that are semi-permanently pressed into the hub, with Lug nuts used to hold the wheel on. Studs used to be used for centering the wheel "lug-centric", but most uses have switch to hub-centric.

It's rare for wheel bolts to fail, and they are trivially replaced when they do. It's common for studs to fail, and they are a minor PITA when they do.


Toyota cars are hub centric.
 
you can sometimes pull one in with a bunch of washers and a lugnut..it may damage the lugnut.
 
I bought a dedicated wheel installing guide stud when I had my Volvo. It was a bullet shaped stud that threaded into one of the bolt holes on the hub, you slide the wheel on, put on the other 4 bolts, then the 5th bolt. I would snug with an electric impact just until it stopped turning on a freewheel, then would use a torque wrench to tighten.
 
Originally Posted By: stephen9666
I've seen online that you can use ball joint separators to press in a new lug stud. I don't know if it would have worked in the OP's application, but it's something to remember for the future.


Nice! I'm about to replace the LH threaded wheel studs on the rear axle my old Dodge truck and I'm going to give the ball joint tool a try. I think I'll use a block of wood between the axle flange and brake backing plate to support the axle while I use the air chisel to drive out the old studs. I don't want to pound on the axle bearing even though it is a good sized tapered roller. Wish me luck!
 
Originally Posted By: Rand
you can sometimes pull one in with a bunch of washers and a lugnut..it may damage the lugnut.


I've done it that way and it worked fine. It's what the auto parts store told me to do.
 
Originally Posted By: djb
You might update with the commonly used terms.

You broke a "lug stud", not a "lug bolt".

Lug bolts are used on many European cars. They screw into a threaded hub. The wheels are typically hub-centric -- centered by fitting snugly over a slightly conical hub protrusion.

Studs are used on most U.S. and Asian cars. They have splined or knurled shoulders that are semi-permanently pressed into the hub, with Lug nuts used to hold the wheel on. Studs used to be used for centering the wheel "lug-centric", but most uses have switch to hub-centric.

It's rare for wheel bolts to fail, and they are trivially replaced when they do. It's common for studs to fail, and they are a minor PITA when they do.




I wonder why they don't call it lug stud pattern vs lug bolt pattern when referencing that at wheel / tire shops.
 
Originally Posted By: Rand
usually happens when the previous person to work on vehicle got happy with the impact wrench.

Stretches the threads then next time... that happens.


Happened to me MANY times with even with a Honda dealer.
They ruined ALL eight studs/lugnuts on the front wheels, and it is a pain in the butt to replace them!
 
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