2015 Silverado 2500HD LML Duramax - 8,945 Miles

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Dec 8, 2003
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This is my second UOA on this truck. The first UOA I did was taken from the factory fill (986 miles) on the brand new engine as mentioned in my latest test.

Duramax%252520Oil%252520Analysis%252520No.%2525202.png
 
Just a few notes about my truck/engine. All of my vehicles I push them hard and drive them hard, but I am religious about maintaining them. I always use good gas/diesel and good oil & filters.

I have yet to tow anything with this truck, but I do often times mash on the go pedal. With all the emissions hoopla on this truck, it's very laggy at times and I get super frustrated when it's in regeneration mode. To cut the poo, I am really starting to dislike this truck. This is my second 2015 Silverado 2500HD as my first one was a lemon and bought back by GM.

To prove that not granny driving a vehicle is crucial, take a look at my intake valve on my previous truck. 2004 Silverado 2500HD with the 6.0 gas engine. At 98,000 miles I had to replace a knock sensor which requires removal of the intake manifold. I only used Shell or Chevron gas and Chevron 5w-30 oil. I bought the truck with 5,400 miles on the odometer.

I regret selling that truck to get my 2015. My old 2004 was an awesome truck.

IMG_3160.JPG
 
Sorry, but how dos a clean intake valve prove you weren't a "granny" with the old truck? What one person thinks is pushing a truck hard is babying to another person
 
Originally Posted By: Bluestream
Sorry, but how dos a clean intake valve prove you weren't a "granny" with the old truck? What one person thinks is pushing a truck hard is babying to another person


Okay...

Thank you for that lucid statement.
 
Friend of mine has a few 04/05 Duramaxes, and a '14 and a '15. He says he can't believe they were all made by the same company.

He sorely misses his '05 8.2 gasser the most.
 
I recently had the fuel injectors out in my 2.2 ecotec and at 143,000 miles the intake valves were spotless. I always use top tier fuel mostly chevron. Maybe engines are better at reducing deposit formation now? Maybe its the fuel too idk.
 
Originally Posted By: CrazyJeeper
Just a few notes about my truck/engine. All of my vehicles I push them hard and drive them hard, but I am religious about maintaining them. I always use good gas/diesel and good oil & filters.

I have yet to tow anything with this truck, but I do often times mash on the go pedal. With all the emissions hoopla on this truck, it's very laggy at times and I get super frustrated when it's in regeneration mode. To cut the poo, I am really starting to dislike this truck. This is my second 2015 Silverado 2500HD as my first one was a lemon and bought back by GM.

To prove that not granny driving a vehicle is crucial, take a look at my intake valve on my previous truck. 2004 Silverado 2500HD with the 6.0 gas engine. At 98,000 miles I had to replace a knock sensor which requires removal of the intake manifold. I only used Shell or Chevron gas and Chevron 5w-30 oil. I bought the truck with 5,400 miles on the odometer.

I regret selling that truck to get my 2015. My old 2004 was an awesome truck.

IMG_3160.JPG



If you want the new 2015 to run like the 2004 about the only options you have are to delete the 2015, or buy another 2004. I thought the Duramax has the 9th injector and stopped post injection? It should be a great engine and give excellent performance.
 
On topic ...
The UOA shows what is typical at nearly 10k miles total duration; still breaking in a bit. Wear metals will continue to normalize with a few OCIs. Nothing new or unexpected here. The Dmax is one of the better wearing light-duty diesel engines ever made.


Side topic ...
Originally Posted By: CrazyJeeper
To prove that not granny driving a vehicle is crucial, take a look at my intake valve on my previous truck.

Just what does this prove? Where is the link between a clean intake tract and the severity of use of an engine. If someone knows of one, please show me study data. How is it "crucial" to not drive like a granny? I had a 1997 Taurus that was my dads; he "grannied" it badly, yet the valve train was very clean after 100k miles when I popped off the valve covers. My wife's former 1996 Villager with 240k miles on it had a clean valve train, despite my years of "cheap" (inexpensive) house brand oils and typical filters, even with greatly extended OCIs.
Some engines have a tendency to sludge up, most don't. Some folks neglect their maintenance routines, most don't.
I see no correlation, let alone any causation, in regard to how one does or does not "granny drive" their vehicle and a clean intake tract.
 
Originally Posted By: dnewton3
On topic ...
The UOA shows what is typical at nearly 10k miles total duration; still breaking in a bit. Wear metals will continue to normalize with a few OCIs. Nothing new or unexpected here. The Dmax is one of the better wearing light-duty diesel engines ever made.


Side topic ...
Originally Posted By: CrazyJeeper
To prove that not granny driving a vehicle is crucial, take a look at my intake valve on my previous truck.

Just what does this prove? Where is the link between a clean intake tract and the severity of use of an engine. If someone knows of one, please show me study data. How is it "crucial" to not drive like a granny? I had a 1997 Taurus that was my dads; he "grannied" it badly, yet the valve train was very clean after 100k miles when I popped off the valve covers. My wife's former 1996 Villager with 240k miles on it had a clean valve train, despite my years of "cheap" (inexpensive) house brand oils and typical filters, even with greatly extended OCIs.
Some engines have a tendency to sludge up, most don't. Some folks neglect their maintenance routines, most don't.
I see no correlation, let alone any causation, in regard to how one does or does not "granny drive" their vehicle and a clean intake tract.


Thank you for that tidbit of information.
11.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Joel_MD
What is the oil change interval recommended in the manual for your Silverado?


According to the manual:

When the CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message displays, have the engine oil and filter changed within the next 1,000 km/600 mi. If driven under the best conditions, the engine oil life system might not indicate the need for vehicle service for more than a year. The engine oil and filter must be changed at least once a year and the oil life system must be reset. Your trained dealer technician can perform this work. If the engine oil life system is reset accidentally, service the vehicle within 5 000 km/3,000 mi since the last service. Reset the oil life system when the oil is changed. See Engine Oil Life System on page 10-9.

Am I changing the oil too soon, probably. I was just curious to see what shape the oil was in after taking a few long trips and extended idling to cool the truck down due to a few hot months we had.
 
Originally Posted By: A310

If you want the new 2015 to run like the 2004 about the only options you have are to delete the 2015, or buy another 2004. I thought the Duramax has the 9th injector and stopped post injection? It should be a great engine and give excellent performance.


I wish I could delete but being in California, it will be next to impossible to keep it that way, let alone warranty issues. The 9th injector only prevents oil dilution with diesel. Around town during regeneration, it drives like poo and it kills my gas mileage. On the highway, it's less noticeable. My truck regenerates roughly every 1.5 tank fill ups.
 
There is no correlation between intake valve cleanliness and driving style. Whether you drive like a Granny or "push them hard and drive them hard" the valve will look the same.

This is mostly a function of engine design, and to a lesser extent the fuel used.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Bluestream
There is no correlation between intake valve cleanliness and driving style. Whether you drive like a Granny or "push them hard and drive them hard" the valve will look the same.

This is mostly a function of engine design, and to a lesser extent the fuel used.


EDIT, let me rephrase since you like to reiterate yourself. So to you sir, thank you again for your .02 cents.
cool.gif
 
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CrazyJeeper -
I know you've been around a long time, but have limited posts. I'm not sure if you just lurk a lot or don't visit often.

Read this article:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/used-oil-analysis-how-to-decide-what-is-normal/

Pay close attention to the Dmax info, as well as the concept of "normal" wear rates. Then you will have something to compare/contrast your UOA to. After full break-in, that is.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: dnewton3
CrazyJeeper -
I know you've been around a long time, but have limited posts. I'm not sure if you just lurk a lot or don't visit often.

Read this article:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/used-oil-analysis-how-to-decide-what-is-normal/

Pay close attention to the Dmax info, as well as the concept of "normal" wear rates. Then you will have something to compare/contrast your UOA to. After full break-in, that is.



Thanks. I've read it before.

The reasoning for me doing the UOA on new engine with the factory fill oil wasn't because I was concerned about something. It can be said regarding my last sample. I'm not thinking I have a problem with this engine, and to be quite frank, I'm more than likely going to get rid of the truck sometime next year as I have lost faith in GM and my appreciation for my Silverado. I simply wanted to report back my UOA so people can see trends, no more, no less.

This truck is my second brand new vehicle out of a few I have had, or third if I count the lemon Silverado. I get UOAs for Duramax's are boring when the numbers level off. I got rid of my 2013 BMW M3 to get this darn truck with the idea that it would be a good family vehicle if and when my wife and I ever decide to have kids. The M3 would of been a fun vehicle to watch with UOAs as the S65 V8 is notorious for having rod bearing issues, using 10w-60 oil, and the horrible 91 octane California gas.

The hatchet has been buried with the picture of the valve. There's no need to rehash that.
 
Originally Posted By: CrazyJeeper
I'm more than likely going to get rid of the truck sometime next year as I have lost faith in GM and my appreciation for my Silverado.


Have you gone for a test drive in any of the new big three gas trucks (6.4L Dodge, 6.2L Ford, 6.0L Chevy)?
 
Originally Posted By: CrazyJeeper
Originally Posted By: A310

If you want the new 2015 to run like the 2004 about the only options you have are to delete the 2015, or buy another 2004. I thought the Duramax has the 9th injector and stopped post injection? It should be a great engine and give excellent performance.


I wish I could delete but being in California, it will be next to impossible to keep it that way, let alone warranty issues. The 9th injector only prevents oil dilution with diesel. Around town during regeneration, it drives like poo and it kills my gas mileage. On the highway, it's less noticeable. My truck regenerates roughly every 1.5 tank fill ups.


consider yourself very lucky,
I don't haf the 9th injector and my truck will sometime at idle in my driveway. go figure. sometime it will keep regening.
as usual GM is NOT able to find anything wrong with it.
 
Originally Posted By: DoubleWasp
Friend of mine has a few 04/05 Duramaxes, and a '14 and a '15. He says he can't believe they were all made by the same company.

He sorely misses his '05 8.2 gasser the most.


With all the new emission equipment on the new diesels, they are different from the diesels 10, 20 years ago.

In a way, they weren't made by the same company. The 04/05 were made by Isuzu, I believe. The later Duramaxes, GM took over the design and building of them.
 
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