I will have to check WM online prices.
High Mileage vs Synthetic High Mileage
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Just checked online. Description says PPHM 5w/30, picture shows Pennzoil Euro formula, no weight shown on bottle. Not sure if I should trust the description or the pic?
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Originally Posted By: otis24
Just checked online. Description says PPHM 5w/30, picture shows Pennzoil Euro formula, no weight shown on bottle. Not sure if I should trust the description or the pic?
I ordered from that same weird webpage with the Euro formula pic, and got a clearly labeled 5 qt bottle of PPHM 5w30. Trust the description.
Just checked online. Description says PPHM 5w/30, picture shows Pennzoil Euro formula, no weight shown on bottle. Not sure if I should trust the description or the pic?
I ordered from that same weird webpage with the Euro formula pic, and got a clearly labeled 5 qt bottle of PPHM 5w30. Trust the description.
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Almost down a full quart at 2400 miles using Mobil 1 HM. About 1400 miles of which is a highway trip to Lafayette. Will top off and see how it fares on the return trip.
At 2800 miles, it was just above the "ADD" mark. I topped off. Will see how we do the next 3k miles. Logged about 1800 miles since topping off. Twenty four and a half hours of driving with just a few short breaks for food and bathroom breaks.
Just like the Exxon Valdez, you gotta get over some Oil Company shenanigans ...
Maxlife is making friends in all sorts of places with motors over 75K. They have to have something figured out?
Maxlife is making friends in all sorts of places with motors over 75K. They have to have something figured out?
I will give MaxLife a try next OCI.
I don't know that the "thicker oil almost always works" to reduce consumption.
My Forester now has over 205k miles. I have run Rotella T6 5W-40 for most of the time I had it. At most, it consumed a little less than half a quart over 7.5k+ OCIs. At best (and most often), it was essentially unchanged to where my initial fill was.
So, my last OCI, I got a great deal on Pennzoil Ultra Euro 5W-40 @ $2.50/qt on clearance. For whatever reason (TDS gives me no clues why), my engine drank that stuff like fuel... it used a little over 1.5 quarts over the same 7.5k OCI, and I also saw iron wear go from 6ppm to 25ppm. I switched back to T6 on the next fill, and consumption dropped back to essentially nil, and iron dropped back down to 11ppm. I assume some of this 11ppm was whatever was left in the passages and sump during the change, my next OC I will see if iron dropped back to the 6-8ppm range.
To answer OP, additive packages may have some influence if it is getting burned in combustion (effect on ring seal/sticking), but I'd guess it may just as well be evaporating due to high temperatures- next OC try an oil with the lowest NOACK volatility you can find and see how that fares.
/start joke OTOH, if you're interested in maintaining low/zero consumption, Chrysler products probably aren't on your prospective vehicle list
/end joke
My Forester now has over 205k miles. I have run Rotella T6 5W-40 for most of the time I had it. At most, it consumed a little less than half a quart over 7.5k+ OCIs. At best (and most often), it was essentially unchanged to where my initial fill was.
So, my last OCI, I got a great deal on Pennzoil Ultra Euro 5W-40 @ $2.50/qt on clearance. For whatever reason (TDS gives me no clues why), my engine drank that stuff like fuel... it used a little over 1.5 quarts over the same 7.5k OCI, and I also saw iron wear go from 6ppm to 25ppm. I switched back to T6 on the next fill, and consumption dropped back to essentially nil, and iron dropped back down to 11ppm. I assume some of this 11ppm was whatever was left in the passages and sump during the change, my next OC I will see if iron dropped back to the 6-8ppm range.
To answer OP, additive packages may have some influence if it is getting burned in combustion (effect on ring seal/sticking), but I'd guess it may just as well be evaporating due to high temperatures- next OC try an oil with the lowest NOACK volatility you can find and see how that fares.
/start joke OTOH, if you're interested in maintaining low/zero consumption, Chrysler products probably aren't on your prospective vehicle list
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While it's clear that different oils result in different consumption experiences for people, I don't think evaporation has much to do with anything. The G37 has atrociously high oil temperatures, and I've never had to add anything, regardless of whether I was using conventional 5w-30 or my current Delvac 1.
Im at 1910 miles since topping off with Mobil 1 HM. Down a quart this time. The vehicle saw about a 1300 mile/25 hour trip since topping off with just stops of less than 30 minutes for lunch and bathroom breaks. Only about 4000 miles into this OCI. Will be taking a trip to Denver in a couple of weeks, so we are Looking at 1200 miles round trip, at least. Will top off and monitor. Plan on running 6k to 8k OCI.
600 miles since I topped off last. Down a half quart. It looks like the van is going back to its old consumption pattern. The 24hr/1300 mile non-stop trip might have been hard on the engine (?). Will head to Colorado on Wed. Will check levels along the way and top off at the "ADD" mark. Right at 700 miles to my destination.
Hwy miles are easy on the engine however hwy runs do seem to burn more oil.
Had to go back and re-read the OP as a refresher since it's been awhile. I topped of the 2012 Camry with some Mobil HM 5w20. It was only in there for 500 miles since an oil change was due for the 10k oci.
What about using or topping off with some Pennzoil HM? Seems to be some excellent reports on that.
Had to go back and re-read the OP as a refresher since it's been awhile. I topped of the 2012 Camry with some Mobil HM 5w20. It was only in there for 500 miles since an oil change was due for the 10k oci.
What about using or topping off with some Pennzoil HM? Seems to be some excellent reports on that.
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I have about 15 Qts of Pennzoil HM. I could top off with that. I think I will just top off with Mobil Super HM this time, then do an oil change when I return from Colorado. Since I have the Pz HM, i'm thinking I will go with the plan of mixing 3 qts PP with 2 qts Pz HM. I got the Pz HM at a decent price.
Nothing scientific here but when mixing oils I prefer to add just one quart of a different oil if possible. That way you don't end up with a frankenstein brew. Except when doing top offs. You can use one quart PP and 4 quarts Pz HM this oci to see if makes a difference in consumption. Then go back to the 4 quarts PP and 1 quart Pz HM the following oci.
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One of the reasons that highways seem to "use" oil is the constant high vacuum of cruise. If the valve seals are worn or displaced, you'll pull some in through them.
Also, if your PCV system is not pristine, you'll pull some in there too ...
Also, if your PCV system is not pristine, you'll pull some in there too ...
I changed the oil prior to leaving for Denver. I used Pennzoil HM. It was what I had in stock. I had thought about adding a couple of quarts of Pennz Platinum, but that would not have been very cost effective. And I reasoned that if a full synthetic HM wasn't doing the trick, a semi-syn would not be much better. The remainder of the Penn HM will be used in my 91 Chev K1500. In reviewing oil prices at WM, the best value for the price looks like MaxLife semi-synthetic HM. The individual quarts for top-off are affordable compared to other choices. I will report back after a couple of thousand miles on how the vehicle is faring with the PHM. If it does well, I will stick with it. Otherwise, MaxLife will be the next most obvious choice.
Originally Posted By: zach1900
I had the complete opposite on my Dakota. Pennzoil yellow cut my consumption at least 50% from mobil 1 HM 10w30. Heck the pennzoil yellow bottle is even thinner 5w30. I'd bet it has less to do with syn vs dino and more the additive package of any given oil.
I had something very similar with PYB 10-30 as a top off (1 quart) in a now/current almost 9800 mile OCI. Started with a full synthetic Valvoline 5w-30 (I know, wrong viscosity for climate and now I am only considering 10w-30 oils) and so the PYB 10-30 was the top off and my fuel economy has been +2 FE from 17-18 to 19-20! Now for the next/imminent OCI and my doubt is should I do the Valvoline vull syn but 10-30 (this is the right VISCOSITY for my climate year round! yay!) instead of the 5w-30 (don't ask why I used the wrong viscosity for my climate, guess I am a sucker for car manuals and whats written on the oil fill caps) You guys (and some of you have said go full OCI with PYB 10-30 and I am leaning to this) think I should go full 5 qt OCI with PYB or go with the Val full syn first or maybe 4 quarts val full syn 10-30 + 1 qt 10-30 PYB?
I had the complete opposite on my Dakota. Pennzoil yellow cut my consumption at least 50% from mobil 1 HM 10w30. Heck the pennzoil yellow bottle is even thinner 5w30. I'd bet it has less to do with syn vs dino and more the additive package of any given oil.
I had something very similar with PYB 10-30 as a top off (1 quart) in a now/current almost 9800 mile OCI. Started with a full synthetic Valvoline 5w-30 (I know, wrong viscosity for climate and now I am only considering 10w-30 oils) and so the PYB 10-30 was the top off and my fuel economy has been +2 FE from 17-18 to 19-20! Now for the next/imminent OCI and my doubt is should I do the Valvoline vull syn but 10-30 (this is the right VISCOSITY for my climate year round! yay!) instead of the 5w-30 (don't ask why I used the wrong viscosity for my climate, guess I am a sucker for car manuals and whats written on the oil fill caps) You guys (and some of you have said go full OCI with PYB 10-30 and I am leaning to this) think I should go full 5 qt OCI with PYB or go with the Val full syn first or maybe 4 quarts val full syn 10-30 + 1 qt 10-30 PYB?
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5W30 is in no way the "wrong" grade for your climate in Tx. I think you're really overthinking a simple oil change.
Originally Posted By: shiny
5W30 is in no way the "wrong" grade for your climate in Tx. I think you're really overthinking a simple oil change.
You might be thinking North Texas which gets snow and maybe gets into the 30 and 20s but south Texas gets none of that, not even for little bit (snow, freezing) so it might be "allright" but it ain't "right".
5W30 is in no way the "wrong" grade for your climate in Tx. I think you're really overthinking a simple oil change.
You might be thinking North Texas which gets snow and maybe gets into the 30 and 20s but south Texas gets none of that, not even for little bit (snow, freezing) so it might be "allright" but it ain't "right".
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