I have a nice 16 hp B and S engine from a lawn tractor. Threw a rod and in the process, cracked the crankcase in 3 spots. All three are about 3/4" long, very small tight cracks but one for sure will leak oil. Any way to save this part?
Small crack in crankcase
- Thread starter philipp10
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Sounds like Jb weld would work cheaply and quick without the risk of warping.
Yep, We JB Welded a hole up high on the CC of a Tecumseh snow-king flat head. Still works to this day. The coil behind the flywheel that powered the headlight broke free, jammed and punched a hole in the block. Patched it, no more headlight and the snowblower lives on.
If the crack is below the oil level, it's going to be tough to stop leaking.
If the crack is below the oil level, it's going to be tough to stop leaking.
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JB weld for sure
I've never tried this, but if i was in your situation, i would try it.
http://www.alumaloy.org/orderalumaloy.php?productid=QWx1bWFsb3kgcm9k
http://www.alumaloy.org/orderalumaloy.php?productid=QWx1bWFsb3kgcm9k
JB Weld will work just fine. I have a buddy that had a crack in an old 289 Ford block that he used JB Weld on. He ran it that way for over 100k miles.
Go simple first, try JB. Remember, like welding you must get the surfaces very clean. You'll need something like brake cleaner for your last pass.
If that fails then it's time for alumaweld. You can buy the the rods or similar ones at Harbor Freight or go on line. It's really easy to use if you can follow instructions. Try YouTube.
If that fails then it's time for alumaweld. You can buy the the rods or similar ones at Harbor Freight or go on line. It's really easy to use if you can follow instructions. Try YouTube.
Originally Posted By: heyu
A thrown rod , even has 3/4 long cracks in 3 spots and you say this is a NICE B$S motor ?? , I would put it back on the curb where you found it
the reason I said it was nice is the rest of it looks great. The rod threw due to hitting a stump (its a known weak spot). The cylinder still shows the original cross hatch, if that means anything.
A thrown rod , even has 3/4 long cracks in 3 spots and you say this is a NICE B$S motor ?? , I would put it back on the curb where you found it
the reason I said it was nice is the rest of it looks great. The rod threw due to hitting a stump (its a known weak spot). The cylinder still shows the original cross hatch, if that means anything.
+1 on JB Weld. I've used it on a snowblower block with good results. Like others have said, cleaning the crack as best you can is key.
My Tecumseh snowblower threw a rod and punched a hole the size of a quarter in the block. I used QuickSteel (Like JB Weld) and a aluminum blank to patch it up. That was several years ago...doesn't leak. Use Brake Cleaner to clean the surrounding area before applying.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/17134766?wmlsp...888&veh=sem
http://www.walmart.com/ip/17134766?wmlsp...888&veh=sem
I have had good luck with both JBweld and actual welding, in this stuation.
Harvey
Harvey
Quicksteel. Had a 3 inch hole in a 2040 John Deere diesel. My dad wanted to have it brazed and it was his tractor, It leaked bad. A little time with a grinder to clean it up and 2 tubes of quicksteel and it has been running for 5 years now.
Use a little sand paper to roughen up the aluminum and when you mix the quicksteel and it starts heating up - mash it hard into the aluminum and in 10 minutes your worries will be over. Spread it out and build it up and get wide surface area coverage for reinforcing.
Use a little sand paper to roughen up the aluminum and when you mix the quicksteel and it starts heating up - mash it hard into the aluminum and in 10 minutes your worries will be over. Spread it out and build it up and get wide surface area coverage for reinforcing.
With cracks, JB Weld works quite well. You may have to run some small drill bits through the crack to give you some more surface area to apply the material. Cleanliness is key as others have said and there isn't enough Brake Kleen in the world to guarantee proper adhesion. Having said that, JB has saved engines I would have thrown out rather than save simply because the customer is a miser who puts their own safety on the back burner to save $20. I'll fix anything, but it will be with no warranty or guarantee of any kind if it isn't what I would do with my own equipment.
Originally Posted By: Padawan
Do you have a local welder who could run beads over the cracks?
Was wondering the same thing. You could have it tig welded shut. I don't think it would warp at all.
Do you have a local welder who could run beads over the cracks?
Was wondering the same thing. You could have it tig welded shut. I don't think it would warp at all.
I've repaired numerous cracked blocks with JBWeld. It holds up fine. JBWeld is the cheap, usually works fine fix. Welding is the proper, more expensive fix.
Originally Posted By: bubbatime
I've repaired numerous cracked blocks with JBWeld. It holds up fine. JBWeld is the cheap, usually works fine fix. Welding is the proper, more expensive fix.
I guess I am a person who likes to fix things properly so that is why I would recommend a weld job to it.
I've repaired numerous cracked blocks with JBWeld. It holds up fine. JBWeld is the cheap, usually works fine fix. Welding is the proper, more expensive fix.
I guess I am a person who likes to fix things properly so that is why I would recommend a weld job to it.
Many years ago when I was a kid I had a go kart that had a Clinton engine on it. It threw a rod and punched a hole about 2" round. Not knowing any better and not having a lot of $$ I bought this product that came in a tube it was called something like liquid aluminum or liquid steel can't really remember it was so long ago. Anyway, patched the hole using this stuff and it ran for another 4 years before I finally gave it to my cousin who had it for a few more years.
JB weld would be my choice, my only suggestion would be to take a Dremel tool with a tapered bit and run it along the cracks to give the JB weld some additional surface artea or tooth to grab on to. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
JB weld would be my choice, my only suggestion would be to take a Dremel tool with a tapered bit and run it along the cracks to give the JB weld some additional surface artea or tooth to grab on to. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
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