My Daughter's Cube needs a set of front pads and rotors. I usually do my own brakes, depending on the vehicle. For example, my Corolla is very easy to do. Pull the wheel, remove the caliper, and remove the bracket that holds the rotor in place (I call it a keeper) and that's it. I attempted to do the brakes on my MPV, but those rotors are pressed onto a spline and require a special puller that I don't have. Does anyone know if the Cube's rotors are easy to remove and replace?
Replacing rotors and pads on a Nissan Cube
- Thread starter grampi
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Your google-fu needs work young grasshopper!
(Im guessing that this youtube video is close to what you have?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W48VMOiTu_8
(Im guessing that this youtube video is close to what you have?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W48VMOiTu_8
Do you really need new rotors? I've never bothered to replace mine, and they have ~231K miles on them and are over 20 years old. If it matters, the car I am referring to is a 1995 Ford Escort.
This is a link to the factory repair manual:
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Cube/2010/BR.pdf
Nissans are generally not easy to perform a proper brake job on -- at least one that lasts. We do a lot of these, and you have to pay very close attention to the rotor runout and the hardware you use.
The rotor runout limit is 0.0014" on these cars, which is a very very small amount. Most cars allow 0.002" or more. Use only premium rotors and be sure to clean the hub flange VERY well. Get a dial indicator from HF and measure the runout to confirm that it does not exceed the published spec. If you do not want to go thru proper rotor installation, I would highly advise having the rotors machined using an on-car lathe.
For pads I would use either the OE pads from the dealer (not value line), or Raybestos EHT. Discard the included shims and re-use the factory 2-piece shim kit. Avoid the ThermoQuiets since you generally cannot use the factory shim kit with them.
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Cube/2010/BR.pdf
Nissans are generally not easy to perform a proper brake job on -- at least one that lasts. We do a lot of these, and you have to pay very close attention to the rotor runout and the hardware you use.
The rotor runout limit is 0.0014" on these cars, which is a very very small amount. Most cars allow 0.002" or more. Use only premium rotors and be sure to clean the hub flange VERY well. Get a dial indicator from HF and measure the runout to confirm that it does not exceed the published spec. If you do not want to go thru proper rotor installation, I would highly advise having the rotors machined using an on-car lathe.
For pads I would use either the OE pads from the dealer (not value line), or Raybestos EHT. Discard the included shims and re-use the factory 2-piece shim kit. Avoid the ThermoQuiets since you generally cannot use the factory shim kit with them.
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