post your latest transmission lubricant change.

Helped a friend with his 2005 buick Lacrosse 3.8l 4T65E

He bought the car a year ago with unknown previous maint. history.

127k miles on car, experiencing slipping

Out : Probably factory fill, no red left at all, pan & magnet were 'muddy', dipstick left shiny grit on white shop towel, Filtran filter.

In : ATP TF-161 filter & gasket, 6 qts. Maxlife FS, 1 qt. Rislone Stop Slip, one half quart leftover QS DexIII/Merc to top off.

Fingers crossed but not super hopeful. I have Lubegard red on hand but want to run what's in there a while to hopefully dilute & filter remaining old fluid, then do another pan drop & filter change before trying Lubegard.
 
Last edited:
98 MGM
PS system

Out: 14K/18mo old Castrol Mercon V.
In: Super Tech D/M (factory)

A 4qt flush and turn for diagnostic purposes. Clean tank as well.

Noted that pump is extremely quiet after flush, even with hood open - but steering still can't return to center all the way after a small turn.
 
1. 1998 Toyota Avalon full flush: Ran the car with the hose coming out of the radiator emptying into a large bucket, and pouring new ATF into the dipstick at the same time. Added a Magnefine filter too.

OUT: Let 15 quarts flow out of (mostly) brown factory fill.
IN: 15 quarts of Maxlife ATF full synthetic.

Been running great for 15k/3 years since the flush and magnefine filter addition.


2. 1999 Toyota Corolla drain and fill: pumped ATF out with hand pump hose pulling from the dipstick.

OUT: 5 quarts of cherry red ATF of unknown origin.
IN: 5 quarts of Maxlife ATF full synthetic.

Been running great for 7k/3 years since the refill.
 
1998 Cavalier - original TH125 - 266,000 miles

Out 4 quarts mostly Maxlife

In 4 quarts Maxlife + 1 bottle Lubegard Red.
 
2003 Honda CR-V (146,000 miles on odo) drain and fill

Out: 3.6 qts of unknown (likely Z-1/DW-1)
In: 3.6 qts of Castrol IMV (Import Multi-Vehicle)

Transmission doesn't feel as lazy, shifts are strong and smooth.
 
2008 4Runner V8 4WD
75,556 mi

Complete fluid exchange via cooler line method with 13 qts of ATL. Honestly I thought it was easier than changing the oil, took about an hour including clean up.

Shifts are smoother and more consistent.
 
2009 Subaru Legacy 60000 miles

Out - 3.5 quarts Subaru ATF-HP
in - 3.5 quarts Subaru ATF-HP

30000 miles on oil, just drain and fill.
 
Buick Century 2002, 190000 kilometers
Out: 1 gal bulk D/M (50000 km on oil)
In: 1 gal Supertech D/M

Ford Freestar 2006, 90000 kilometers
Out: 1 gal of dark substance (likely FF)
In: 1 gal ML

Extracted the fluid with electric pump. Will repeat the procedure in a week or two.
 
88 Ford F150 C6 auto trans 160,000 miles
out- what I suspect is the factory fill due to the plastic dipstick plug being in the trans pan.

in- valvoline maxlife and a few quarts of Supertech high mileage to bring it up to level.
 
'07 Honda Fit Sport A/T 166,000 miles

OUT: Presumed Honda DW-1 at 20k+ on fluid

IN: Amsoil ATL Fuel-Efficient ATF complete cooler line 'flush' conversion method

w/ Honda Genuine filter replacement
thumbsup2.gif
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Accord over the course of 3+ years
OUT: Z-1 and maybe some regular Dex III via drain pan and cooler line
IN: DW-1 w/ 1 bottle Lubegard Red

OUT: DW-1 (Burned)
IN: Maxlife with 1 bottle Lubegard Platinum

OUT: Maxlife w/ Platinum Lubegard
IN: Maxlife w/ 1 bottle Lubegard Red

G35
OUT: Nissan Matic J via drain pan and cooler line
IN: Maxlife w/ 1 bottle Lubegard Red
 
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