UAO Can Am 3000 mi RotellaT

[sunruh]

iron and copper down
alum and tin up

sure only a few ppm, but % that is a big change on all 4.

however,

silicon from 4 or 6 to 20!!! ok thats pretty huge.
any clue why? diff air filter?

 

[tc1446]

Sunruh: no idea on the silicon. It still has the original air filter and I've
not been riding in any different environment that might cause it to get clogged up.

Will keep doing UAO's and see what the metals look like next time. I am
using the same oil filter for the next run of Mobil1 since BRP claims the filter need
only be changed every 9300 miles. I plan on changing it every other oil change.

 

[alarmguy]

I think the shearing thing is a bit over thought. Choose an oil recommended by the manufacturer and sure, cant hurt to check out some UOAs to get the oil that shears less then others.
But lets give some credit to Can Am. I am sure they know a good quality oil shears down to a 30 wt and they are perfectly happy with that.
Its early, just rambling ... )

 

[tc1446]

Alarmguy: you may be right and a lot of folks go exactly by the
manual which says you need change the oil only every 9300 miles. I can't argue with that, but still, I just find that too hard for me to believe. In recent years of UA0's on the Can Am I have not found ANY motorcycle 10-40 oil that will hold up to 4000 miles without shearing down in the low 30w or more. I find that adding a quart or two of 20-50 to the 5 quart mix will hold up to 4K miles. As to BRP's oil, a blend of some sort, a recent test by a rider didn't fare very well at all. Another rider had good results with Mobil1 motorcycle oil and thats why I thought it worth a try next. Thats what I have in it now, with one quart of 20-50. We'll see how it goes. I like trying diff stuff just out of curiosity as much as anything and I guess also every bike I get I think I'm gonna keep it forever and go all out with good oil and frequent changes. LOL.

 

[Mik]

Originally Posted By: tc1446
Originally Posted By: Clevy
The new ones are a 3 cylinder. Nice.
Are they bigger,as in more cc's or just the same cc's with smaller pistons?

Sounds like can am listened to the guys griping about heat in the forums then,with the re-design of the venting so the rider doesn't melt.
They are a lot of fun. And on a track you can really lean into turns which for a less experienced rider adds some extra level of safety,though I have seen a lady fall off one once but she cornered real hard and didn't lean at all. Kinda funny to watch only because her only injury was her ego.
I think based on cost per mile rotella is gonna win out here. Although I do understand the fun in trying different oils. I tried lots of them in my Harley before after multiple chats with sunruh I settled on rotella,once I used up all my syn stock and was buying oil for the bike again.
Works great in the primary too


The 3 cyl is 1330cc as opposed to earlier twins @ 998cc and they changed the paddle shifting to hydralic so when its in gear, its in gear, just as if you were using a manual clutch; unlike pre-'14's with a CVT type. I agree that Rotella, cost wise, can't be beat. It was Sunruh, in previous threads, that convinced me to give it a try.

Have either of you ever used the T6? That one has my curiosity up now! ha.


FWIW, Can-Am has never used a CVT-type clutch in a Spyder (though they do in their ATVs and SxS vehicles)....

 

[JetStar]

Quote:


FWIW, Can-Am has never used a CVT-type clutch in a Spyder (though they do in their ATVs and SxS vehicles)....


That is correct. The automatic Spyder uses an electro-hydraulically actuated clutch and shifted manual transmission.
So, TC is yours an auto, or a manual?
My step Dad changed over to one in 2010 due to a bum leg, he loves it. It's an auto.

 

[tc1446]

Mine is the auto.

 

[Mik]

Originally Posted By: JetStar
Quote:


FWIW, Can-Am has never used a CVT-type clutch in a Spyder (though they do in their ATVs and SxS vehicles)....


That is correct.


I know, that's why I wrote it.......

 

[JetStar]

Originally Posted By: Mik
Originally Posted By: JetStar
Quote:


FWIW, Can-Am has never used a CVT-type clutch in a Spyder (though they do in their ATVs and SxS vehicles)....


That is correct.


I know, that's why I wrote it.......


Ok Lighten up Francis
I was only agreeing with you and elaborating on what type the transmission was.

 

[tc1446]

Mik, you're right, its not CVT, I understand its a Centrifugal clutch. Sometimes the old brain gets things confused.

 

[beanoil]

tc and all, I got my latest UOA back from the Stoners on my 12 Spyder with the 998 Rotax. 3 quarts of Delvac and one quart of 15w50. Still no joy, 2600 miles sheared the blend into the 30 weight range, but the shearing to 30 short term does not really affect wear. I am convinced nothing will last in these engines. Refilled the crab with 3 quarts of Valvoline 10w40 MC and 1 quart of 20w50. So far the factory fill, Lubro Moly 10w40 MC, Brad-Penn 10w40, and the Delvac mix have all sheared to 30 weight or below, and all within 3000 miles.

 

[KernelK]

Interesting that Can Am specs lower viscosity oil for the 998 Rotax than Aprilia does for the RSV1000R using essentially the same engine. Admittedly, the bike engine is in a higher state of tune, but one would think that on average the Can Am motor is working harder propelling a vehicle that is twice as heavy and more likely to be carrying a passenger and luggage for even more weight. If I had a Can Am with the Rotax engine I would be experimenting with the 15w-50 grade.

 

[beanoil]

Kernel,
I've said that many times. I think a 15w50 would be appropriate for the Spyder but any oil in these things shears pretty quick, and the wider spread of the 50 doesn't buy you much if any extra mileage before it's out of 50 weight and cascading through the 40 weight and on. Surprising, I've ridden forever, and never seen oil shear this fast. My Honda ST1300 running Brad-Penn was still at a 40 weight after 4000 miles with it's shared sump. It's a good oil IMO, but the same oil in the Spyder was a 30 weight after 3k.

 

[tc1446]

Beanoil and others: I've been an advocate for early changes on the Can Am's for some time. In the past, I've done lots of lab tests and made the assumption that if it shears down to 30 or even upper 20's at 4000 miles it will continue to shear. This appears to not be the case.

Recently on the Spyderlovers.com forum several folks have run the oil much longer, and lab tested it at 6-8000 mi, on the 1330 motors. Surprisingly, these tests appear to bear out BRP's contention that oil in the 1330, while shearing early on, will taper off and can, therefore, be run 9300 miles that they specify in the manual. I don't have the specifics of these tests at my finger tips, but am slowly, very slowly, beginning
to believe this may be the case. If a few others report good long term lab tests, then I may be convinced to run mine a bit longer.

Perhaps to 5000 miles.

 

[alarmguy]

I'm sure your can am is fine with oil sheared to a 30 weight and why the long recommended change intervals. They have their machines start at 40 knowing it will end up in the 30 range. I'm sure the Motul will be the same.

 

[alarmguy]

Originally Posted By: beanoil
tc and all, I got my latest UOA back from the Stoners on my 12 Spyder with the 998 Rotax. 3 quarts of Delvac and one quart of 15w50. Still no joy, 2600 miles sheared the blend into the 30 weight range, but the shearing to 30 short term does not really affect wear. I am convinced nothing will last in these engines. Refilled the crab with 3 quarts of Valvoline 10w40 MC and 1 quart of 20w50. So far the factory fill, Lubro Moly 10w40 MC, Brad-Penn 10w40, and the Delvac mix have all sheared to 30 weight or below, and all within 3000 miles.


You are correct, I am sure Can Am knows the oil runs at at 30 weight after 3000 miles and the engine is designed for it.
BUT I can understand someone wanting to stay closer to 40 (more so in the heat) Your mix of Valvoline is one way to do it. I THINK I may have a uoa in here from a 50/50 mix of Valvoline MC oil.
Valvoline 4 stroke is good stuff and can be bought for $4. a quart. It would not hurt one bit to do a 50/50 mix. 10/40 and 20/50.

 

[tc1446]

If the viscosity would stay within the 30W range I'd feel better about it, but some oils drop well below that, into the 20w range. This leaves me a bit unsettled. I have the following Amsoil auto diesel on hand for my next change but with winter it won't happen till early spring; however, a buddy has it in his '14 Can Am now but with only 2000 miles, it will be spring before we can send a test in. I want to wait till at least 4K, preferably 5K. He's using 1 qt of 20-50 with 4 10-40's. If it tests well, it will be a nice oil as its just a bit over $8 qt for preferred customers.


http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/mo.../?code=AMOQT-EA

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/mo.../?code=AROQT-EA

 

[alarmguy]

I agree that I would be trying the same things as you to keep it in the 30plus range. If that couldn't be achieved I wouldn't hesitate to use 2 - 20/50 and 3 - 10/40 mix of the same brand and type.