So I drove the car through the snowstorm but only for 20 miles this past Saturday. As usual, under snowy conditions, the ESC and ABS were used a lot. Does that waste brake fluid or overusing them or braking really hard use brake fluid or contribute to a brake fluid leak? Anyways, on Sunday (yesterday) the brake fluid warning would go on and now it's continusously where where it says brake fluid low and the parking brake light is also on along with it. I checked the reservoir adn there was still brake fluid there, though it might not have been completely full. Could this be a sensor issue or an issue caused by overusing the abs or esc, and can braking too hard in snowy conditions warp the braking system or the sensor? I will try to top it off with a small bottle of valvoline I'll buy on the way home this afternoon. I have the large bottles of brake fluid, but I heard once you break the seal, you can't use it because it gets exposed to oxygen, so rather than wasting all that fluid, I'll just buy a small bottle of valvoline dot 3/4 and top it off and see if the warning light goes away. But could this be due to an actual leak or somethign that has to do with braking too hard in the snow? It was completely fine one day and the next, it went off. And is the parking brake actually engaged when that parking brake light lights up on the dashboard, or is it just using the same light to attract attention to an issue in the braking system? The nearest oreilly's is only 4 miles away, so I should be safe for now before topping it off to see if it goes away. I also had a question about the brake fluid. They say after you break the seal you can't use it, but for how long? I'm assuming if I break the seal, and if I have a leak and I need to top it off every day, then the next day, my fluid should still be fine, but maybe after sitting for a month, it won't be fine, so when is that threshhold reached? 1 week after braking the seal? Right away? 1 day, 1 month? I know 1 year definitely will be too long but if I do have a leak, I could keep my brake fluid that I buy today and use it for topping off temporarily, but by what time will it completely go bad and shoulnd't be used for topping off either? Thanks.
Low Brake Fluid 2009 Ford Taurus
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I guess I'll have a quick lube inspect it on the way back too to check the fluid level.
Its usually setup so that the fluid goes low and trips the light when the pads are getting due to be changed.
Originally Posted By: Colt45ws
Its usually setup so that the fluid goes low and trips the light when the pads are getting due to be changed.
So you think I might need new pads soon? Topping off won't help? How are akebono brake pads? Napa brake pads are the best parts store ones, right?
Also, I technically don't have to throw the brake fluid away, right? I heard it's just because of the moisture and that brake fluid is hydrophilic, so if I reseal the bottle myself, as in put a small piece of aluninum foil over the top and then put the cap on (wont' be perfectly airtight, but bettetr than just putting the cap on, that will make my opened brake fluid bottle last a little longer, right? Thanks.
Its usually setup so that the fluid goes low and trips the light when the pads are getting due to be changed.
So you think I might need new pads soon? Topping off won't help? How are akebono brake pads? Napa brake pads are the best parts store ones, right?
Also, I technically don't have to throw the brake fluid away, right? I heard it's just because of the moisture and that brake fluid is hydrophilic, so if I reseal the bottle myself, as in put a small piece of aluninum foil over the top and then put the cap on (wont' be perfectly airtight, but bettetr than just putting the cap on, that will make my opened brake fluid bottle last a little longer, right? Thanks.
You only have a low brake fluid level and light from 1 of 2 things:
1. Leak. Fluid doesn't evaporate. Ever.
2. Worn Pads. I've never had this happen but they say on some cars if the pads are shot it will cause the fluid level to go low and trip the light.
Either one of those needs to be fixed before the car is moved so you can stop.
Brake fluid is hygroscopic so if the bottle is old, say more than a year pitch it and buy a new one.
1. Leak. Fluid doesn't evaporate. Ever.
2. Worn Pads. I've never had this happen but they say on some cars if the pads are shot it will cause the fluid level to go low and trip the light.
Either one of those needs to be fixed before the car is moved so you can stop.
Brake fluid is hygroscopic so if the bottle is old, say more than a year pitch it and buy a new one.
I wonder if you wore a pad down really fast during this storm--seems unlikely, but if it is a system that uses the brakes to control wheelspin, it's possible. And more so if the pads are sticky and don't slide easily. Time to pull the wheels and check.
I wouldn't think a 2009 would have rusted out lines, but anything is possible.
I'd use fluid a year old, especially if it was all I had on hand. Otherwise, it's cheap enough to buy more. Last time I bought some I just bought the smaller containers at Walmart, as I didn't need a lot.
I wouldn't think a 2009 would have rusted out lines, but anything is possible.
I'd use fluid a year old, especially if it was all I had on hand. Otherwise, it's cheap enough to buy more. Last time I bought some I just bought the smaller containers at Walmart, as I didn't need a lot.
Yeah, no matter how much you use the brakes, you're not using up the fluid like you would gasoline. And yes, you can just top off the brake fluid. As pads wear, you use slightly more fluid to push the pads out which is why the fluid level may be lower. If you don't have a leak, topping up should shut off the light. If the light doesn't go off, you have a leak or failure somewhere that will need to get fixed. The only way to know if you really need pads is to have them inspected, they could be 75% worn but still have some life left to them.
There's a level sensor AND in dual systems there can be a pressure differential sensor which is set off by lower pressure in one brake circuit. Topping raises the level sensor but doesn't affect a low pressure because of leak warning.
Shouldn't this be "Struggling with a 2009 Taurus" thread?
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Tegger
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Shouldn't this be "Struggling with a 2009 Taurus" thread?
Or how about "Struggling with a Honda Civic head bolt" thread?
Oh, wait. That was somebody else... or was it?
It was somebody else. GHT is back on here under a new name (he has revealed himself), and it's not engineer20.
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Shouldn't this be "Struggling with a 2009 Taurus" thread?
Or how about "Struggling with a Honda Civic head bolt" thread?
Oh, wait. That was somebody else... or was it?
It was somebody else. GHT is back on here under a new name (he has revealed himself), and it's not engineer20.
Originally Posted By: engineer20
So I drove the car through the snowstorm but only for 20 miles this past Saturday. As usual, under snowy conditions, the ESC and ABS were used a lot. Does that waste brake fluid or overusing them or braking really hard use brake fluid or contribute to a brake fluid leak? Anyways, on Sunday (yesterday) the brake fluid warning would go on and now it's continusously where where it says brake fluid low and the parking brake light is also on along with it. I checked the reservoir adn there was still brake fluid there, though it might not have been completely full. Could this be a sensor issue or an issue caused by overusing the abs or esc, and can braking too hard in snowy conditions warp the braking system or the sensor? I will try to top it off with a small bottle of valvoline I'll buy on the way home this afternoon. I have the large bottles of brake fluid, but I heard once you break the seal, you can't use it because it gets exposed to oxygen, so rather than wasting all that fluid, I'll just buy a small bottle of valvoline dot 3/4 and top it off and see if the warning light goes away. But could this be due to an actual leak or somethign that has to do with braking too hard in the snow? It was completely fine one day and the next, it went off. And is the parking brake actually engaged when that parking brake light lights up on the dashboard, or is it just using the same light to attract attention to an issue in the braking system? The nearest oreilly's is only 4 miles away, so I should be safe for now before topping it off to see if it goes away. I also had a question about the brake fluid. They say after you break the seal you can't use it, but for how long? I'm assuming if I break the seal, and if I have a leak and I need to top it off every day, then the next day, my fluid should still be fine, but maybe after sitting for a month, it won't be fine, so when is that threshhold reached? 1 week after braking the seal? Right away? 1 day, 1 month? I know 1 year definitely will be too long but if I do have a leak, I could keep my brake fluid that I buy today and use it for topping off temporarily, but by what time will it completely go bad and shoulnd't be used for topping off either? Thanks.
,
Snow often causes brake fluid to evaporate. Best approach is to drive a Camry.
So I drove the car through the snowstorm but only for 20 miles this past Saturday. As usual, under snowy conditions, the ESC and ABS were used a lot. Does that waste brake fluid or overusing them or braking really hard use brake fluid or contribute to a brake fluid leak? Anyways, on Sunday (yesterday) the brake fluid warning would go on and now it's continusously where where it says brake fluid low and the parking brake light is also on along with it. I checked the reservoir adn there was still brake fluid there, though it might not have been completely full. Could this be a sensor issue or an issue caused by overusing the abs or esc, and can braking too hard in snowy conditions warp the braking system or the sensor? I will try to top it off with a small bottle of valvoline I'll buy on the way home this afternoon. I have the large bottles of brake fluid, but I heard once you break the seal, you can't use it because it gets exposed to oxygen, so rather than wasting all that fluid, I'll just buy a small bottle of valvoline dot 3/4 and top it off and see if the warning light goes away. But could this be due to an actual leak or somethign that has to do with braking too hard in the snow? It was completely fine one day and the next, it went off. And is the parking brake actually engaged when that parking brake light lights up on the dashboard, or is it just using the same light to attract attention to an issue in the braking system? The nearest oreilly's is only 4 miles away, so I should be safe for now before topping it off to see if it goes away. I also had a question about the brake fluid. They say after you break the seal you can't use it, but for how long? I'm assuming if I break the seal, and if I have a leak and I need to top it off every day, then the next day, my fluid should still be fine, but maybe after sitting for a month, it won't be fine, so when is that threshhold reached? 1 week after braking the seal? Right away? 1 day, 1 month? I know 1 year definitely will be too long but if I do have a leak, I could keep my brake fluid that I buy today and use it for topping off temporarily, but by what time will it completely go bad and shoulnd't be used for topping off either? Thanks.
,
Snow often causes brake fluid to evaporate. Best approach is to drive a Camry.
Originally Posted By: exranger06
Originally Posted By: Tegger
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Shouldn't this be "Struggling with a 2009 Taurus" thread?
Or how about "Struggling with a Honda Civic head bolt" thread?
Oh, wait. That was somebody else... or was it?
It was somebody else. GHT is back on here under a new name (he has revealed himself), and it's not engineer20.
I've been awaiting his arrival
Originally Posted By: Tegger
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Shouldn't this be "Struggling with a 2009 Taurus" thread?
Or how about "Struggling with a Honda Civic head bolt" thread?
Oh, wait. That was somebody else... or was it?
It was somebody else. GHT is back on here under a new name (he has revealed himself), and it's not engineer20.
Originally Posted By: Lolvoguy
Originally Posted By: exranger06
Originally Posted By: Tegger
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Shouldn't this be "Struggling with a 2009 Taurus" thread?
Or how about "Struggling with a Honda Civic head bolt" thread?
Oh, wait. That was somebody else... or was it?
It was somebody else. GHT is back on here under a new name (he has revealed himself), and it's not engineer20.
I've been awaiting his arrival
Struggling, yes. I got that thing on as best I could. Probably should have waited for a stud, then I would have drilled again.. Whatever it's crazy torqued on (that bolt) and the rest are right, if it fails, it will be either between cyl 3 and 4, or Cyl 1.
Engine is timed, motor mount going back on, exhaust bolted back up, engine is on a jack. Intake manifold has most the bolts on, gonna tighten and try to locate the ones around 3 and 4 because coolant flows there.. then it's simple of the brackets, AC, fan, radiator, ignition stuff, brake reservoir, PS fluid reservoir, gonna just use the Denson plugs, old [censored] wires, why even open the NGKS and new dizzy I got.. got oil in there ready to go to flush after 60 or 90 seconds, from old mayhem.. H-T can watch from sidelines..
Goal is by Thanksgiving, the anniversary of it stolen.
Honda name: Cleopatra. Listen the the Frank Ocean song "Pyramids" to hear why.
Sup yall.
Originally Posted By: exranger06
Originally Posted By: Tegger
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Shouldn't this be "Struggling with a 2009 Taurus" thread?
Or how about "Struggling with a Honda Civic head bolt" thread?
Oh, wait. That was somebody else... or was it?
It was somebody else. GHT is back on here under a new name (he has revealed himself), and it's not engineer20.
Struggling, yes. I got that thing on as best I could. Probably should have waited for a stud, then I would have drilled again.. Whatever it's crazy torqued on (that bolt) and the rest are right, if it fails, it will be either between cyl 3 and 4, or Cyl 1.
Engine is timed, motor mount going back on, exhaust bolted back up, engine is on a jack. Intake manifold has most the bolts on, gonna tighten and try to locate the ones around 3 and 4 because coolant flows there.. then it's simple of the brackets, AC, fan, radiator, ignition stuff, brake reservoir, PS fluid reservoir, gonna just use the Denson plugs, old [censored] wires, why even open the NGKS and new dizzy I got.. got oil in there ready to go to flush after 60 or 90 seconds, from old mayhem.. H-T can watch from sidelines..
Goal is by Thanksgiving, the anniversary of it stolen.
Honda name: Cleopatra. Listen the the Frank Ocean song "Pyramids" to hear why.
Sup yall.
thanks.
if after i top it off and the light still goes off, that could be a leak or a light/sensor issue, as I googled this and I saw some people had bad sensors so the light would come on even if nothing was wrong and it was a recall or something and the dealer would fix the light.
I'll top it off and see how the car reacts, if it still says it's low on brake fluid, i'll have it chcked by a mechanic to see if ti's leaking or ifi t's a bad sensor.
does using the ABS a lot or esc waste or use up brake fluid? that's what caused it to be low, by using abs a lot under slippery conditions from the 20 mile previous day drive in the middle of the snowstorm.
if after i top it off and the light still goes off, that could be a leak or a light/sensor issue, as I googled this and I saw some people had bad sensors so the light would come on even if nothing was wrong and it was a recall or something and the dealer would fix the light.
I'll top it off and see how the car reacts, if it still says it's low on brake fluid, i'll have it chcked by a mechanic to see if ti's leaking or ifi t's a bad sensor.
does using the ABS a lot or esc waste or use up brake fluid? that's what caused it to be low, by using abs a lot under slippery conditions from the 20 mile previous day drive in the middle of the snowstorm.
ABS pulses the brake lines--but usually reduces brake pressure, so as to control wheel spin. ESC/VSC can increase brake pressure, or even force pressure on a wheel; traction control can do the same. So they can cause brake pad wear, which will lower fluid level.
But the fluid is still in the car. If the pads wear, then more fluid is in the calipers. Installing new brake pads would push fluid back up into the master cylinder. Apart from a leak, the fluid does not disappear.
[Yes, when putting on new pads it may be wise to crack the bleeders and drain out old brake fluid, rather than push old contaminated fluid back into the lines--but let's ignore that for now.]
But the fluid is still in the car. If the pads wear, then more fluid is in the calipers. Installing new brake pads would push fluid back up into the master cylinder. Apart from a leak, the fluid does not disappear.
[Yes, when putting on new pads it may be wise to crack the bleeders and drain out old brake fluid, rather than push old contaminated fluid back into the lines--but let's ignore that for now.]
Why did the topic switch to strugling with a 09 taurus, this is no joke. I just had a question about the brake fluid, please change the thread topic back.
Anyways, you're saying after a year, even if it's never opened, and sealed, the brake fluid goes bad? how? Do other fluids go bad after exposure to air, such as trans fluid, engine oil, coolant, after you break the seal? Or is brake fluid the one that is the most likely to go bad, whereas the others go bad to after the seal is destroyed, but just not as quickly? In order, which fluids go bad the quickest after being opened, or have the longest shelf life after being opened? Thanks.
Anyways, you're saying after a year, even if it's never opened, and sealed, the brake fluid goes bad? how? Do other fluids go bad after exposure to air, such as trans fluid, engine oil, coolant, after you break the seal? Or is brake fluid the one that is the most likely to go bad, whereas the others go bad to after the seal is destroyed, but just not as quickly? In order, which fluids go bad the quickest after being opened, or have the longest shelf life after being opened? Thanks.
Originally Posted By: supton
ABS pulses the brake lines--but usually reduces brake pressure, so as to control wheel spin. ESC/VSC can increase brake pressure, or even force pressure on a wheel; traction control can do the same. So they can cause brake pad wear, which will lower fluid level.
But the fluid is still in the car. If the pads wear, then more fluid is in the calipers. Installing new brake pads would push fluid back up into the master cylinder. Apart from a leak, the fluid does not disappear.
[Yes, when putting on new pads it may be wise to crack the bleeders and drain out old brake fluid, rather than push old contaminated fluid back into the lines--but let's ignore that for now.]
Don't waste time giving this troll a reasonable answer.
ABS pulses the brake lines--but usually reduces brake pressure, so as to control wheel spin. ESC/VSC can increase brake pressure, or even force pressure on a wheel; traction control can do the same. So they can cause brake pad wear, which will lower fluid level.
But the fluid is still in the car. If the pads wear, then more fluid is in the calipers. Installing new brake pads would push fluid back up into the master cylinder. Apart from a leak, the fluid does not disappear.
[Yes, when putting on new pads it may be wise to crack the bleeders and drain out old brake fluid, rather than push old contaminated fluid back into the lines--but let's ignore that for now.]
Don't waste time giving this troll a reasonable answer.
Originally Posted By: engineer20
thanks.
if after i top it off and the light still goes off, that could be a leak or a light/sensor issue, as I googled this and I saw some people had bad sensors so the light would come on even if nothing was wrong and it was a recall or something and the dealer would fix the light.
I'll top it off and see how the car reacts, if it still says it's low on brake fluid, i'll have it chcked by a mechanic to see if ti's leaking or ifi t's a bad sensor.
does using the ABS a lot or esc waste or use up brake fluid? that's what caused it to be low, by using abs a lot under slippery conditions from the 20 mile previous day drive in the middle of the snowstorm.
Absolutely, you are right.
thanks.
if after i top it off and the light still goes off, that could be a leak or a light/sensor issue, as I googled this and I saw some people had bad sensors so the light would come on even if nothing was wrong and it was a recall or something and the dealer would fix the light.
I'll top it off and see how the car reacts, if it still says it's low on brake fluid, i'll have it chcked by a mechanic to see if ti's leaking or ifi t's a bad sensor.
does using the ABS a lot or esc waste or use up brake fluid? that's what caused it to be low, by using abs a lot under slippery conditions from the 20 mile previous day drive in the middle of the snowstorm.
Absolutely, you are right.
Originally Posted By: engineer20
Why did the topic switch to strugling with a 09 taurus, this is no joke. I just had a question about the brake fluid, please change the thread topic back.
Anyways, you're saying after a year, even if it's never opened, and sealed, the brake fluid goes bad? how? Do other fluids go bad after exposure to air, such as trans fluid, engine oil, coolant, after you break the seal? Or is brake fluid the one that is the most likely to go bad, whereas the others go bad to after the seal is destroyed, but just not as quickly? In order, which fluids go bad the quickest after being opened, or have the longest shelf life after being opened? Thanks.
Of course, no joking.
Why did the topic switch to strugling with a 09 taurus, this is no joke. I just had a question about the brake fluid, please change the thread topic back.
Anyways, you're saying after a year, even if it's never opened, and sealed, the brake fluid goes bad? how? Do other fluids go bad after exposure to air, such as trans fluid, engine oil, coolant, after you break the seal? Or is brake fluid the one that is the most likely to go bad, whereas the others go bad to after the seal is destroyed, but just not as quickly? In order, which fluids go bad the quickest after being opened, or have the longest shelf life after being opened? Thanks.
Of course, no joking.
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