Sometimes I consider getting a beater car

[mclasser]

This is something I've thought about for a while so please bear with me:

As BITOGers, we often over-obsess about parts and fluids for our cars, new and old alike. Sometimes, I just want to buy a beater car where I don't have to worry at all about what I put in it. With my Japanese cars, it's basically a necessity to use OEM electrical/ignition replacement parts since aftermarket stuff just won't work correctly. It'd be great to have a car where if something goes out, I can throw in some Duralast or other chain store value part without giving it a second thought. The car will accept the part without a fuss and keep chugging along. Take brake pads for example -- Right now, I only use premium ceramic pads from Akebono or Wagner. It'd be great to use el cheapo Duralast or Wearever semi-metallic pads on a beater and not feel guilty about . Sure, they may be squeaky but as long as the car stops correctly, I wouldn't bat an eye. Two of my cars are 13 yrs old, but I still worry about them getting dings in parking lots. With a beater, I'd find the closest spot up front near all the soccer moms with rogue kids and shopping carts and wouldn't care about dents. And since this is an oil forum, wouldn't it be awesome getting some SuperTech or AAP dino oil with the cheapest filter and not nitpick over TBN and NOACK levels, or if the filter has cardboard or metal end caps?

 

[Ramblejam]

Figured out what (specifically) you want?

 

[GenesisGuy70]

Almost sounds like a vacation!

I think it would be nice. For me it would come down to frequency of replacing those "el cheapo" parts. While keeping an old car in many cases is cheaper than buying new, I think it would only be worse to keep the new(ish) and buy the old.

 

[RudeRED]

Maybe not a true beater car, but something common out of it's prime. Best case is if you can get something from a known source who keeps up on maintenence.
No car payment means you can set aside some $$$ for repairs if necessary. Plus the satisfaction of making the repairs yourself if you can.
New car euphoria usually wears off after the third or fourth payment for me anyway.
Good luck!

 

[Trav]

Sorry i don't understand, what's the question?

 

[69GTX]

I can understand the beater "body" you don't have to worry about. But if the car is high mileage with mechanical and electrical systems nearing end of life, that's a whole different story.

Rather than worrying about the quality of oil to put in the car, you will spend a lot more time worrying about what part is going to fail next and what repair to do next.

I've never purposely intended to buy a "beater" car. But, ended up with a couple due to poor buying decisions.

 

[CT8]

I guess life is just too easy when all there is to worry about is the car. Drive it, maintain it and fix it when it needs to be fixed.

 

[Doog]

Originally Posted By: RudeRED
New car euphoria usually wears off after the third or fourth payment for me anyway.


Wears off for me when I get the first payment.

 

[JC1]

If you usually over obsess with part quality, I doubt you'll be able to own a beater that you throw cheap parts at.

It would be hard IMO to have two different ways you take care of cars.

 

[dishdude]

No offense OP, but you have two beaters listed in your signature.

As for cheap parts, what's the difference if it fails and leave you stranded in a beater or a good car?

 

[gfh77665]

Originally Posted By: 69GTX


I've never purposely intended to buy a "beater" car. But, ended up with a couple due to poor buying decisions.


I end up with them after driving them for 15+ years.

 

[Oldmoparguy1]

Get a Chrysler product from the mid-late 90's to mid 2000's. Cheap initial cost, easy to work on, parts are cheap and readily available. If your in the rust belt, go shopping in the southeast, the Carolinas are a good place to look. Most any one will be good for 2-300k miles. I've bought 4 such cars for little more then scrap price.

 

[spk2000]

Cheap brake pads are just that. They will stop you and work but not necessarily as fast or smooth. They can be harder on rotors too so cheap pads will actually cost more as they will require more maintenance long term. That said I had O'Reilly ceramic pads on my sable for 5 years and they did the job well until I upgraded to the Akebono's and wow what a difference. Better stopping power, smoother and they don't wear the rotors. The O'Reily ceramics were much harder and did wear the rotors more.

 

[SumpChump]

One car for the OP.

2001 Kia Rio 1.5L

I'm not kidding. I sold that car to a guy who beat it up. Made it to 250k with lots of original stuff.

Original battery turned that thing over for 15 years, no joke.

 

[eljefino]

Get something they made over a long model run. Saturn s-series comes to mind. Yeah they're picky over ignition wires but $1.50 copper plugs every 30k will keep you rolling. There's also the junkyard and ebay for good used original parts.

The plastic body means if you find someone six inches into your parking space you can passively aggressively center your car inches from their doors.

 

[The Critic]

The interesting thing is that parts store parts really are not that "cheap." If you compare apples to apples, I've found that the big-box retailers mark up their parts by 40-60% compared to sources like Rockauto. But of course, you're paying for convenience and availability.

Regardless of what you drive, crummy parts are going to deliver crummy results. And Wagner ThermoQuiets are not "premium" parts by any means.

 

[BigD1]

A used Jeep Cherokee with the 4.0. Parts are plentiful and cheap. You can do a lot of repairs without jacking it up because of the good ground clearance.

 

[Nick1994]

What's the purpose of having nice, newer cars if you're never going to drive them?

Your Accord is almost a beater. High mileage, probably not going to go another 200,000 miles. I suggest just driving it and not worry about it.

 

[Mr Nice]

Beaters are great if running good. Keep and drive it another 10 years.

 

[aualtima3.5]

Originally Posted By: Oldmoparguy1
Get a Chrysler product from the mid-late 90's to mid 2000's. Cheap initial cost, easy to work on, parts are cheap and readily available. If your in the rust belt, go shopping in the southeast, the Carolinas are a good place to look. Most any one will be good for 2-300k miles. I've bought 4 such cars for little more then scrap price.


I have a 99 LHS. it's kinda easy to work on. Longitudinal engine configuration is nice. But the car spent its whole life in TN and the body is okay, interior/rubber falling apart. Other Chrysler/Jeep products from this era do the same thing. It's not my first pick for beater. Half the Windows work, dash is splitting in two places, brake booster leaking 'vacuum.' 145k. Needs subframe bushings and pretty much anything rubber. I rebuilt most of the front end minus struts. Like the op said, just making it mechanically reliable to get me places.... Takes my muddy friends hiking. Hauls bags of rock. My partners dog. It gets parked at the airport long term parking. Does the rare snow day.

A 4cylinder something would be A better beater for me. A good beater though, is based upon the need. Unless you are in the rust belt, or want something to take on Home Depot and ding avoidance duty, I would examine adding another car carefully. For me, it's nice having a big car I can thrash instead of my newer car. I put about 1/2-⅔ of my miles on my beater, but I make payments on a new car. I dunno, it's an odd thing to do. Lately, when the beater goes down, it's not a quickie repair and shouldn't be driven - be aware a beater isn't going to be a model of reliability.