Question regarding statement about 5w30/10w30

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TexasTea

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Hi guys, i was browsing information regarding 5w30 vs 10w30 since i have been burning 5w30 ever since i put it in my 2004 silverado, where as 10w30 NEVER burned a drop even with extended OCI's (on conventional or otherwise)

that being said, a member here posted:
Quote:

Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
10W-30 is so slow at flowing, it takes a full 5 minutes to reach all the bearings on startup. But 5W-30 only takes 2/100ths of a second to reach all the bearings. With 10W-30, you're gonna find a lot of metal shavings at the bottom of the oil pan.


Is this true? does 5w30 actually take 1/50th of a second to reach all the bearings while 10w30 takes 5 minutes?
 
Maybe you should have let it go and seen if anyone fell for it twice LOL
 
I have some ocean front lots I am willing to sell you outside of Denton. There is a difference below 0*f
 
Gotta love those variable speed oil pumps and oil pump drives with slipper clutches
laugh.gif


Yeah, uh huh ... I don't think so...

The difference in cold viscosity is minimal and could even almost overlap between brands. Some are thinner 10W and some are thicker 5W. But whatever the differences between selected brands are for your motor, the pump will get it there at about the same time.

Short of a busted pump drive, there can be no reason for a delay of one second between these two "weights". Maybe a few seconds between 0W and 40W straight weights at near freezing ...

Folks have been running 10W-XX for decades w/o any of this happening. You are either spoofing us, or your radar is not the greatest for spotting crazy statements ...
 
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Originally Posted By: TexasTea
Hi guys, i was browsing information regarding 5w30 vs 10w30 since i have been burning 5w30 ever since i put it in my 2004 silverado, where as 10w30 NEVER burned a drop even with extended OCI's (on conventional or otherwise)

that being said, a member here posted:
Quote:

Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
10W-30 is so slow at flowing, it takes a full 5 minutes to reach all the bearings on startup. But 5W-30 only takes 2/100ths of a second to reach all the bearings. With 10W-30, you're gonna find a lot of metal shavings at the bottom of the oil pan.


Is this true? does 5w30 actually take 1/50th of a second to reach all the bearings while 10w30 takes 5 minutes?


Please please please don't take things Merk' says that seriously. This thread is now his spawn... and he loves it.
 
I want to extend this question a bit instead of starting a whole new thread:

Would using 10w-30 in a 5w-30 spec'd application in warmer weather be wise? I know this must have been asked/answered a zillion times, but I just tried searching but can't find a relevant one with the site search function.

So I have a passenger car V6 spec'd for 5w-30. Toyota V6, In which I run either Mobil 1 HM or PP at 7.5k OCIs. Would using 10w-30 in one of those oils instead of 5w30 be a good move since the lowest temps we see ever is maybe 28F? (Coastal PNW around Seattle). I have read the use of fewer visc. modifiers is a plus.
 
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Originally Posted By: Oro_O
I want to extend this question a bit instead of starting a whole new thread:

Would using 10w-30 in a 5w-30 spec'd application in warmer weather be wise? I know this must have been asked/answered a zillion times, but I just tried searching but can't find a relevant one with the site search function.

So I have a passenger car V6 spec'd for 5w-30. Toyota V6, In which I run either Mobil 1 HM or PP at 7.5k OCIs. Would using 10w-30 in one of those oils instead of 5w30 be a good move since the lowest temps we see ever is maybe 28F? (Coastal PNW around Seattle). I have read the use of fewer visc. modifiers is a plus.


Read the post directly above yours for the answer.
 
5-30 and 10-30 are, for all intents and purposes, the same oil. In fact, if you want some reassurance, I can tell you I have run straight 30 wt. and even straight 40 wt. in my truck with zero issues for years on end.

Vehicles are no where near as picky about viscosities as the vast majority of people fear they are. Unless you are trying to run 20w-50 in Barrow, AK, you have zero issues.
 
Originally Posted By: kschachn


Read the post directly above yours for the answer.


There was really no adequate answer there.

While that posts makes a blanket statement without explanation, I was looking for something a bit more thorough.
 
If your lowest temp ever is 28F yes you can run 10w30 year round without the slightest issue. Neither you nor your vehicle will ever be able to tell the difference. Despite the improvements in oils the 5w30's are still more shear prone than their 10w30 counterparts.

I ran 10w30 in everything year round for decades before "I knew better" and it gets below zero here from time to time.
 
Where are you coming up with 28F as the lower limit for the 10W-30 grade?
The 10W-30 grade is fine down to temperatures well below that.
According to the OM of my BMW, 10W-30 is fine down to -22F, the OMs of both of our Subarus allow the grade down to -4F and even Honda allowed the grade down to 20F for our '97, '99 and '02 Accords.
10W-30 was the all-climate grade recommended for just about everything sold in this country for many decades.
Using it in no way imperils an engine in cold weather although there are better choices available today.
 
If your lowest temperature is 28F, there is no real difference in 5W or 10W on cold engine (but mild temperature) starts. They only really start to differ from each other at below 0F. So at this end of the scale they are fairly similar.

At the other end of the scale they are both 30 weight oils at operational temperatures and are also fairly similar.

So yeah, what's the difference between a 5W30 and a 10W30 ? I'm no expert, but given the same basic type of oil the 5W30 should have more VII and pour point depressants than the 10W30. This gives the 5W30 better sub zero cold start performance, but the cost tends to be higher oil volatility (Noack %). A 5W30 is more "jacked up on plastic" as another member once said.

I think manufacturers recommend 5W30, because it covers the whole country well enough. However if it never gets cold enough where you live to need 5W for cold starts, then I think you are better off using 10W for it's reduced volatility.
 
OK, some things that point me in the right direction. Let me re-state the very same question in a different way:

What are the pros and cons to running 5w-30 vs. 10w-30 full synthetic in a vehicle if temps are always between 25F and 85F?
 
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