Home made rust preventive oil question.

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Originally Posted By: Michael_P


Since I posted the pix an old timer told me diesel fuel would make a better penetrant than kerosene. Does anyone know if this is true?


Dunno, but that's what I use these days.

Its cheaper, more readily available, has (I think) slightly higher viscosity/chain length and probably lasts longer than kerosene, (though since you aren't applying it alone that probably doesn't matter) but it smells worse and is probably more irritating to skin and eyes.
 
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There you go Michael P!

That should at least prove it is possible to have nice winter cars in the NE area. Have you sweated bullets doing all of the prep work that winterizing entails?

I was kind of thinking y'all couldn't have nice things with salts on the streets.
 
Originally Posted By: Ducked
Whats a toilet wax ring?


It's an archaic seal. Not the pinniped. Wax has many uses. Note the yellow seal in the picture below.

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WD-40 has potential. It would probably creep nicely. Its about $20/gal which isn't too bad. It usually cost me about $6/gal to make the finished product, but if its better.................
WD should do better at displacing humidity though.
 
Never seen WD40 in bulk, here or in the UK. In aerosol can its (of course)too expensive to use much, and I'd think it'd be too light to be very protective or last very long.

If I have a can handy I put a liberal squirt of it in my DIY mix (but it'll be much less than 1%) because I have a vague idea its got silicones in it (?) and a little silicone goes a long way.
 
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I have read this entire thread and some others on the same topic and I'm intrigued by the concept. I believe if started when a vehicle is new rust could be almost entirely prevented.

It is far more economical than professionally applied rust prevention as well.

Some of these mixtures use kerosene or diesel while others use mineral spirits, turpentine etc...(more volatile {better evaporation} liquids). I'm wondering which works best?....maybe some of both?
 
I've done similar things in the past. Don't need it here in the carolinas. Paraffin may not be the best wax, it gets hard in the cold, toilet ring wax is mostly bees wax. Good stuff. It sticks well.
 
Does anybody have an opinion on using diesel versus mineral spirits as the carrier fluid (as I asked previously)?
 
At work they use to get WD 40 in 55 gallon drums. Whatever the active ingredient is would settle out if the drum was not agitated before dispensing. It's a white waxy like substance. Somewhere I have about 5 gallons of the stuff.
 
What about some MMO? Would think in it's straight form would be pretty good for guys up north?
 
Originally Posted By: 3311
What about some MMO? Would think in it's straight form would be pretty good for guys up north?


There's not much in MMO that would be useful in spray on rust prevention.

ATF cut with thinners would be about as useful.
 
Originally Posted By: Michael_P

My question is; would the ingredients settle out or solidify? What I use is a mixture and not a suspension, so I see no reason why it would separate or solidify. Does anyone think or know if there would be a chance this would happen?


Back to one of the original questions. Dissolved wax could settle out at low temperatures. part of the refining process for base oils is dewaxing (removing wax), and this changes the low temperature properties of base oil to decrease the pour point. Wax content generally will raise the pour point therefore, making it more likely that the mixture could solidify. If it doesn't get cold enough to solidify but is still very cold, you may get some separation.

The good news is that you would probably just need to warm it back up and maybe agitate it a little and it should be good as new again if the wax does happen separate or solidify.

Either way I wouldn't be too concerned about long term storage if I were you; it should be fine.
 
Originally Posted By: pbm
Does anybody have an opinion on using diesel versus mineral spirits as the carrier fluid (as I asked previously)?


Yeh. me (see above)

I'd add that it depends what you're trying to achieve with it. I think diesel is adequately penetrating so I don't think white spirit is better in that respect, but white spirit is much more volatile and probably a better solvent.

This MAY mean that, once the spirit has evaporated, you end up with more high molecular weight stuff (wax and oil) in the coating, which MAY give more protection.
 
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I got a gallon of WD-40 and a gallon of PB Blaster from Advance AP and they both worked on the 40% discount coupon. WD40 was arond $12, IIRC. I also got a gallon of Seafoam, mid $30s?
 
Originally Posted By: Michael_P
WD-40 has potential. It would probably creep nicely. Its about $20/gal which isn't too bad. It usually cost me about $6/gal to make the finished product, but if its better.................
WD should do better at displacing humidity though.


WD-40 is not an outdoors rust inhibitor. Take a new padlock and after inserting oil into the keyhole to make key-entry smoother, spray it on the outside of the Master lock and use the lock outdoors for things like sheds.

That Master will rust within one year.
 
Keep the mix simple. As simple as possible. Reduce your workload. Don't overthink a simple idea! It mainly functions as a barrier. WD-40 may have unexpected and unwanted effects on how well your barrier performs, and it is quite highly over-rated as a rust preventative. If you want, spray small critical areas you want to give extra protection to with LPS-3 or BoeShield, or brush with slightly warmed wheelbearing grease. Do not spray these areas again with your homemade mix.

Baking soda is not needed, and will create a foaming, unuseable mess. Again, stick with what is already working for you.

Stick with diesel. Mineral spirits will not give the consistency you want, and will evaporate. Diesel will leave some film behind.
 
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