Is a failing battery hard on the alternator?
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If you dont have the receipt, then the warranty will be from the manufacture date.
You won't get much since its prorated, but its something, right?
You won't get much since its prorated, but its something, right?
Originally Posted By: Colt45ws
If you dont have the receipt, then the warranty will be from the manufacture date.
You won't get much since its prorated, but its something, right?
Do you know if I have to buy the same battery if I get anything prorated?
If you dont have the receipt, then the warranty will be from the manufacture date.
You won't get much since its prorated, but its something, right?
Do you know if I have to buy the same battery if I get anything prorated?
If I'm not mistaken, the 35 series was originally spec'ed for the Camry, but the 24 series fits & usually have higher Cold Cranking Amps (CCA)
I have a 24 in my '00 Camry now. (Came with car from used car dealer)
I have a 24 in my '00 Camry now. (Came with car from used car dealer)
Originally Posted By: zach1900
What exactly does the battery indicator light on the dash indicate? ! Mine isn't on.
Usually it indicates a bad alternator. Silly, I know, since its the picture of a battery.
Originally Posted By: zach1900
Walmart has the same battery but they cut the warranty way down from the one I still have.
Everyone has cut their warranties. Yours mustve been right at the end of the prorated warranty because mine is a Oct '10 in my CVLX with just a 4 year free replacement and no prorate.
What exactly does the battery indicator light on the dash indicate? ! Mine isn't on.
Usually it indicates a bad alternator. Silly, I know, since its the picture of a battery.
Originally Posted By: zach1900
Walmart has the same battery but they cut the warranty way down from the one I still have.
Everyone has cut their warranties. Yours mustve been right at the end of the prorated warranty because mine is a Oct '10 in my CVLX with just a 4 year free replacement and no prorate.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: zach1900
Originally Posted By: Colt45ws
If you dont have the receipt, then the warranty will be from the manufacture date.
You won't get much since its prorated, but its something, right?
Do you know if I have to buy the same battery if I get anything prorated?
When I did it in 2008 they did NOT require the same battery, but they could have tightened things up since then.
I went in with a dead "yellow" top of the line battery (no receipt) and got like $48 credit which I used on a midgrade replacement. I was only out $1, as they gave me a core credit I used on some other battery I had kicking around.
Originally Posted By: Colt45ws
If you dont have the receipt, then the warranty will be from the manufacture date.
You won't get much since its prorated, but its something, right?
Do you know if I have to buy the same battery if I get anything prorated?
When I did it in 2008 they did NOT require the same battery, but they could have tightened things up since then.
I went in with a dead "yellow" top of the line battery (no receipt) and got like $48 credit which I used on a midgrade replacement. I was only out $1, as they gave me a core credit I used on some other battery I had kicking around.
Originally Posted By: mjoekingz28
Maybe we can have a sticky!
FIAT- fix it again tony
OCOD
Tearolator
Neverstart battery
Etc
And
So on
OCOD
Maybe we can have a sticky!
FIAT- fix it again tony
OCOD
Tearolator
Neverstart battery
Etc
And
So on
OCOD
Originally Posted By: zach1900
I do have a 1.5 amp charger. Not a 2.0
Should be fine. It would just take longer to fully charge. You could also get a junkyard battery, but who knows how long those will last. I used to like getting the AAP batteries with the $50 off code, maybe it will appear again around black friday, normally the most you get off is $40 off a $100 battery. But the Walmart battery at $48 is the cheapest one around.
I do have a 1.5 amp charger. Not a 2.0
Should be fine. It would just take longer to fully charge. You could also get a junkyard battery, but who knows how long those will last. I used to like getting the AAP batteries with the $50 off code, maybe it will appear again around black friday, normally the most you get off is $40 off a $100 battery. But the Walmart battery at $48 is the cheapest one around.
One thing I did not see mentioned is that a bad starter can cook a battery. Check how hot that battery is getting while you are driving it. I was coming back from the beach years ago, and the battery was so hot I could hear it bubbling inside. I disconnected the battery with the engine running, and ran on the alternator all way back home about 250 miles.
Originally Posted By: BigD1
One thing I did not see mentioned is that a bad starter can cook a battery. Check how hot that battery is getting while you are driving it. I was coming back from the beach years ago, and the battery was so hot I could hear it bubbling inside. I disconnected the battery with the engine running, and ran on the alternator all way back home about 250 miles.
You shouldn't do that. Disconnecting the battery can cause a large voltage spike out of the alt.
One thing I did not see mentioned is that a bad starter can cook a battery. Check how hot that battery is getting while you are driving it. I was coming back from the beach years ago, and the battery was so hot I could hear it bubbling inside. I disconnected the battery with the engine running, and ran on the alternator all way back home about 250 miles.
You shouldn't do that. Disconnecting the battery can cause a large voltage spike out of the alt.
Well it was one AM on early Monday morning, and I had to be at work at seven o'clock, and no traffic out. Back then cell phones were like mini suit cases, and there was not a payphone in sight. I suppose I could have sit there like a knot on a log with my wife in the car, and a crying baby wanting his crib on a two lane highway out in the boonies, or did what I did, and get back home. Changed the starter, and the battery and alternator worked just fine after that.
Jetronic-
It is my understanding that it requires a given amt of power to turn over a starter under a load (car engine). Say it takes 1000 watts (power). If voltage goes down, then current must go up to supply the required watts(power) to turn over the engine.
It is my understanding that it requires a given amt of power to turn over a starter under a load (car engine). Say it takes 1000 watts (power). If voltage goes down, then current must go up to supply the required watts(power) to turn over the engine.
When I find a battery with a shorted cell, it's usually extremely hot and takes many hours to cool down. Strong smell of acid often accompanies that battery.
Alternator no doubt is very hot as well.
In some cases, the battery will explode after you try to restart the engine.
Alternator no doubt is very hot as well.
In some cases, the battery will explode after you try to restart the engine.
Most starters on 4-6 cyl gasoline engines pull about 150 amps or less to start.
A good battery pulls less than 15 amps from an alternator, a fresh battery pulls less than 10 amps (on average) when fully charged. No idea how many amps batteries pull on computer controlled alternators. I have seen bad batteries pull 50-60+ amps constantly from an alternator. Add in additional loads and your alternator is full fielding and eventually letting the smoke out. Always fun to pull the old Ford externally regulated alternators out and give them a shake. You can hear the solder balls melted out of the diode plate rattling around.
A good battery pulls less than 15 amps from an alternator, a fresh battery pulls less than 10 amps (on average) when fully charged. No idea how many amps batteries pull on computer controlled alternators. I have seen bad batteries pull 50-60+ amps constantly from an alternator. Add in additional loads and your alternator is full fielding and eventually letting the smoke out. Always fun to pull the old Ford externally regulated alternators out and give them a shake. You can hear the solder balls melted out of the diode plate rattling around.
Originally Posted By: BigD1
Well it was one AM on early Monday morning, and I had to be at work at seven o'clock, and no traffic out. Back then cell phones were like mini suit cases, and there was not a payphone in sight. I suppose I could have sit there like a knot on a log with my wife in the car, and a crying baby wanting his crib on a two lane highway out in the boonies, or did what I did, and get back home. Changed the starter, and the battery and alternator worked just fine after that.
Well, considering the time period, you were probably okay. Im aware the disconnect the battery trick was used for a long time to check alternators.
However, if you tried that trick on a more modern vehicle, you might find yourself needing a engine computer and a battery, rather than just a battery.
Well it was one AM on early Monday morning, and I had to be at work at seven o'clock, and no traffic out. Back then cell phones were like mini suit cases, and there was not a payphone in sight. I suppose I could have sit there like a knot on a log with my wife in the car, and a crying baby wanting his crib on a two lane highway out in the boonies, or did what I did, and get back home. Changed the starter, and the battery and alternator worked just fine after that.
Well, considering the time period, you were probably okay. Im aware the disconnect the battery trick was used for a long time to check alternators.
However, if you tried that trick on a more modern vehicle, you might find yourself needing a engine computer and a battery, rather than just a battery.
Originally Posted By: willbur
Jetronic-
It is my understanding that it requires a given amt of power to turn over a starter under a load (car engine). Say it takes 1000 watts (power). If voltage goes down, then current must go up to supply the required watts(power) to turn over the engine.
You're thinking that the same amount of work is being done (watts=voltage x amperes) even when the voltage starts to go low. But this isn't the case here. A bad battery has less voltage, and it is this voltage that forces the amps into the starter and do work. Less voltage = less "pressure" = less current = less work done. This is why the motor doesn't turn over as briskly when your battery starts to go south.
Jetronic-
It is my understanding that it requires a given amt of power to turn over a starter under a load (car engine). Say it takes 1000 watts (power). If voltage goes down, then current must go up to supply the required watts(power) to turn over the engine.
You're thinking that the same amount of work is being done (watts=voltage x amperes) even when the voltage starts to go low. But this isn't the case here. A bad battery has less voltage, and it is this voltage that forces the amps into the starter and do work. Less voltage = less "pressure" = less current = less work done. This is why the motor doesn't turn over as briskly when your battery starts to go south.
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