Is a failing battery hard on the alternator?
- Thread starter zach1900
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It can ruin an alternator. Get a ValuePower battery at Walmart for only $48.88
If the battery has a shorted cell, yes, very hard on the alternator.
If the battery is just weak, no, it is much easier to charge than a strong battery.
A weak battery, however, is harder on the electrical system in general, especially the starter, as the lower the voltage drops while cranking, the higher the current flow and more heat is produced.
If the battery is just weak, no, it is much easier to charge than a strong battery.
A weak battery, however, is harder on the electrical system in general, especially the starter, as the lower the voltage drops while cranking, the higher the current flow and more heat is produced.
The battery in my Jeep shorted a cell. The brand new alternator couldn't keep 14 volts with the headlights on at idle. I threw in an older , used, battery and it had no problems.
A bad battery can take out an alternator. A bad alternator can take out a battery
A bad battery can take out an alternator. A bad alternator can take out a battery
I got the slow starter clicking sound on the Camry this morning, it did start however and ran perfectly fine. How do you know if a battery is shorted or weak, I was under the impression that they were the same thing.
The thing that baffles me is it sitting overnight the battery may have drained enough to reset the clock and radio presets but it still had enough juice to start the car.
The thing that baffles me is it sitting overnight the battery may have drained enough to reset the clock and radio presets but it still had enough juice to start the car.
Originally Posted By: Miller88
A bad battery can take out an alternator. A bad alternator can take out a battery
That is true in my experience.
A bad battery can take out an alternator. A bad alternator can take out a battery
That is true in my experience.
Funds are really tight right now, was hoping to make it until next week, it's starting so far 7 times today so far, but not the way it used to.no warning lights or anything though and I wouldn't have even noticed if not for the slow clicking start this morning.
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Originally Posted By: zach1900
I got the slow starter clicking sound on the Camry this morning, it did start however and ran perfectly fine. How do you know if a battery is shorted or weak, I was under the impression that they were the same thing.
The thing that baffles me is it sitting overnight the battery may have drained enough to reset the clock and radio presets but it still had enough juice to start the car.
You may actually be dealing with bad battery connections, or a bad battery ground. That would account for an actual loss of power to the clock and radio.
Checking the battery for voltage at shutdown, and for a period after, will tell you if the voltage is actually going away while it sits.
I got the slow starter clicking sound on the Camry this morning, it did start however and ran perfectly fine. How do you know if a battery is shorted or weak, I was under the impression that they were the same thing.
The thing that baffles me is it sitting overnight the battery may have drained enough to reset the clock and radio presets but it still had enough juice to start the car.
You may actually be dealing with bad battery connections, or a bad battery ground. That would account for an actual loss of power to the clock and radio.
Checking the battery for voltage at shutdown, and for a period after, will tell you if the voltage is actually going away while it sits.
A shorted cell will show 10.5 volts with the car off. You also usually find acid around the vents because the remaining cells see 6/5 the charging voltage they're supposed to.
If you're going to gimp the car around, kill the headlights down to parking lights at red traffic lights or boost the idle with your foot. This is when the alt is nearly full fielded.
Parts stores all over test batteries for free, what are you waiting for?
If you're going to gimp the car around, kill the headlights down to parking lights at red traffic lights or boost the idle with your foot. This is when the alt is nearly full fielded.
Parts stores all over test batteries for free, what are you waiting for?
Do you have a 2 amp charger you can put on it over night?
yes very
I would check/clean the battery cables preferably at both ends.
Have the battery tested, many places do it for free. Typically they use a Midtronics tester. They can test the charging system also.
If you really need a battery and do not have the funds, the put it on a charger every night.
A quality battery at a decent price is the Walmart MAXX. As long as its made by JCI and fresh (manufactured in the last 2-3 months.)
Have the battery tested, many places do it for free. Typically they use a Midtronics tester. They can test the charging system also.
If you really need a battery and do not have the funds, the put it on a charger every night.
A quality battery at a decent price is the Walmart MAXX. As long as its made by JCI and fresh (manufactured in the last 2-3 months.)
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Indeed, try leaving a trickle charger on it.
I'd pop the terminals, make sure they are clean. Then leave one disconnected, and connect when you go to leave. If it starts starting very easy then it might be something else; otherwise, it just removes whatever little current is being bled off for whatever is taking phantom power.
I'd pop the terminals, make sure they are clean. Then leave one disconnected, and connect when you go to leave. If it starts starting very easy then it might be something else; otherwise, it just removes whatever little current is being bled off for whatever is taking phantom power.
Well something is better than nothing overnight. But if you continue to drive like this, you WILL be replacing an alternator
Originally Posted By: Cardenio327
If the battery has a shorted cell, yes, very hard on the alternator.
If the battery is just weak, no, it is much easier to charge than a strong battery.
A weak battery, however, is harder on the electrical system in general, especially the starter, as the lower the voltage drops while cranking, the higher the current flow and more heat is produced.
erhm, the lower the voltage, the lower the current aswell... P=U².R. If the voltage drops, power drops dramatically...
If the battery has a shorted cell, yes, very hard on the alternator.
If the battery is just weak, no, it is much easier to charge than a strong battery.
A weak battery, however, is harder on the electrical system in general, especially the starter, as the lower the voltage drops while cranking, the higher the current flow and more heat is produced.
erhm, the lower the voltage, the lower the current aswell... P=U².R. If the voltage drops, power drops dramatically...
Originally Posted By: Jetronic
Originally Posted By: Cardenio327
If the battery has a shorted cell, yes, very hard on the alternator.
If the battery is just weak, no, it is much easier to charge than a strong battery.
A weak battery, however, is harder on the electrical system in general, especially the starter, as the lower the voltage drops while cranking, the higher the current flow and more heat is produced.
erhm, the lower the voltage, the lower the current aswell... P=U².R. If the voltage drops, power drops dramatically...
The issue with applying electrical engineering to a failing car battery is that there may be more than one symptom, eg, low voltage. You need to know all your symptoms and continue on an assumption that the half-dead battery will stay the same until it's replaced. You've got busted or bridged plates rattling around in there and who knows what else.
Best case scenario, the kaput battery just boils itself, and its impedance is high enough the alt keeps on trucking.
Medium case, the battery has nothing to absorb, nothing to contribute, and it's the same as driving around on the alt with the terminal disconnected.
Worst case, the battery is heating itself up with all the amps the alt can make, and wreaking havoc on the PCM and anything else touchy on the system.
Originally Posted By: Cardenio327
If the battery has a shorted cell, yes, very hard on the alternator.
If the battery is just weak, no, it is much easier to charge than a strong battery.
A weak battery, however, is harder on the electrical system in general, especially the starter, as the lower the voltage drops while cranking, the higher the current flow and more heat is produced.
erhm, the lower the voltage, the lower the current aswell... P=U².R. If the voltage drops, power drops dramatically...
The issue with applying electrical engineering to a failing car battery is that there may be more than one symptom, eg, low voltage. You need to know all your symptoms and continue on an assumption that the half-dead battery will stay the same until it's replaced. You've got busted or bridged plates rattling around in there and who knows what else.
Best case scenario, the kaput battery just boils itself, and its impedance is high enough the alt keeps on trucking.
Medium case, the battery has nothing to absorb, nothing to contribute, and it's the same as driving around on the alt with the terminal disconnected.
Worst case, the battery is heating itself up with all the amps the alt can make, and wreaking havoc on the PCM and anything else touchy on the system.
You may need to worry about the other electrics of the car.
A few weeks ago the battery was failing. The car would usually crank just fine, but not if I listened to the radio for just five minutes after the engine was shutdown, or, the lights remained on after shutdown.
Then, on the final straw, I left the engine running while I ran inside for something and the temp gauge read like 60F and the surge tank was full to the brim. First time I recall seeing things like this. It may have been the computer forgot to signal the fan to switch on. May have fried sensors or avionics or something, toasted thermostat, I do not know!
A few weeks ago the battery was failing. The car would usually crank just fine, but not if I listened to the radio for just five minutes after the engine was shutdown, or, the lights remained on after shutdown.
Then, on the final straw, I left the engine running while I ran inside for something and the temp gauge read like 60F and the surge tank was full to the brim. First time I recall seeing things like this. It may have been the computer forgot to signal the fan to switch on. May have fried sensors or avionics or something, toasted thermostat, I do not know!
Can't kill the headlamps or the daytime lights, it's all automatic. I'll just break down and buy a new battery before I ruin something else, this car has been insanely reliable all these years and I think the battery is 5 years old, it's an everstart Maxx 35N? Now to see if Walmart actually has the battery, Walmart online is giving me 3 different value power battery model numbers ,all the same price , which one should I buy? ! Thanks for all the help.
Maybe we can have a sticky!
FIAT- fix it again tony
OCOD
Tearolator
Neverstart battery
Etc
And
So on
FIAT- fix it again tony
OCOD
Tearolator
Neverstart battery
Etc
And
So on
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