05 f150 5.4 towing

[Soak_n_Fused]

Here's my concern I have a 2005 f150 5.4 that I tow my 5000 lb boat with
I usually pull it about an hour one way
I've noticed that my oil pressure will be slightly lower(5-7psi at idle) after about 45 to an hour of towing at the same oil temp
I usually am at 38 psi at idle at 180 degrees
I have a decent size oil cooler
I also have installed a real oil gauge
After about ten minutes at idle oil pressure slowly returns
Ive done quite a bit of reading to try to understand this and I would like some opinions
I am considering running a full
Currently im running 5w20 Mc with Mc filter
Should I go synthetic
Should I go 5w30
Is any of this even related to my problem
There is 78xxx miles on my motor
New tensioners phasers and solenoids

 

[The motor guy]

The oil is thinning out cause it's getting hot from the towing, thus reducing the pressure. I'm surprised you have a real oil pressure gauge on that truck.

 

[Chris142]

10w30 if your ambient temp will allow it

 

[Brybo86]

I would go with a 30w Euro oil , German/belgian castrol

 

[MNgopher]

So, what exactly is the problem here?

Is the oil pressure out of spec after towing for an hour at idle? Or just lower than what it is before towing for a period of time? (it isn't clear if you are saying you are at 5-7 psi, or if its 5-7 psi lower). If the former, then sure I see a problem. If the latter, I don't.

Most sources I'm seeing state the pressure should be tested at 2000 rpms and should be 50-70 psi. Some recommendations of 25psi at idle minimum. With what you posted at 38 psi at idle, then losing 7 puts you at 31 psi hot idle which is fine.

Currently running a 2004 F150 5.4 3V, original tensioners phasers and solenoids and 174,000 miles. Conventional 5w20 (or semi syn s it may actually be) of whatever name brand is on sale. Tows a 4000 lb boat fairly regularly. Noisy engine, but works well enough and doesn't owe me a thing.

 

[userfriendly]

Due to fluid friction, thicker oil will increase heat. The oil pressure will be higher, but the temperature of the oil may also be higher.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: Soak_n_Fused
Here's my concern I have a 2005 f150 5.4 that I tow my 5000 lb boat with
I usually pull it about an hour one way
I've noticed that my oil pressure will be slightly lower(5-7psi at idle) after about 45 to an hour of towing at the same oil temp
I usually am at 38 psi at idle at 180 degrees
I have a decent size oil cooler
I also have installed a real oil gauge
After about ten minutes at idle oil pressure slowly returns
Ive done quite a bit of reading to try to understand this and I would like some opinions
I am considering running a full
Currently im running 5w20 Mc with Mc filter
Should I go synthetic
Should I go 5w30
Is any of this even related to my problem
There is 78xxx miles on my motor
New tensioners phasers and solenoids


I'd say you're still fine. The oil is just getting hotter and thinning more as already mentioned. If it concerns you, you could move up to a 5w30.

 

[bigt61]

I'd go 5W-30 as long as you're towing. Synthetic 5W-30 wouldn't hurt either.

 

[dnewton3]

Originally Posted By: Soak_n_Fused
Here's my concern I have a 2005 f150 5.4 that I tow my 5000 lb boat with ...


First, Welcome to the Site! (not sure how long you may or may not have been lurking, but glad you're a member now)

Next, get a UOA. Find out how the engine is performing currently before you go changing a bunch of stuff, possibly needlessly. If your UOA shows normal wear rates, then there's nothing to worry about. If your wear is above normal, then perhaps a fluid selection alternative might be warranted; and you would need to validate the change actually did what you wanted by running more UOAs after the switch. But until you understand your starting point, then you have no ability to declare success or failure from any change.

Inputs such as oil pressure and temps are indicators of a potential change, but wear rates actually speak to what is happening in the engine. Don't jump to a conclusion. First [censored] where you are at, then decide if change is needed. If so, then alter only one variable and test again.



Or, you can be like most BITOGers and just "want" you way into a thicker synthetic; you would not be alone in that regard. Many here fall victim to their own self-induced panic and never ask the right questions or wait for the true answers.



Note - moving this to the PCMO; that's what you're using and not HDEO related.

 

[tcp71]

I have been using castrol 0w40 for the last two oil changes. I assume it shears to a thick 3o weight within a few 1000kms. The The engine has never run better. 2009 F150 5.4, 104k miles.

 

[Trav]

Try Mobil 1 0w40, it works very well in these engines. This engine a couple of years before yours was back spec to 5w20 with the proviso to use thicker oil if towing.
From what i can tell there is no difference in the crank or rod clearances. This was never intended to be a xw20 engine when used for towing.

Try it, what do have to lose, it wont effect the phasers, etc but you will like the nice stable oil pressure when worked hard. Use a Motorcraft filter.

Edit: I used the Mobil 1 but there is nothing wrong with the Castrol or Pennzoil 0w40.

 

[hatt]

You've already replaced the tensioners at under 80K. Supposedly low oil pressure helps kill the tensioners. I'd be moving up to to a 30 or 40 for sure.

 

[Branson304]

I would step up to Motorcraft 5W-30 synthetic blend or any name brand full synthetic 5W-30 like Pennzoil Platinum, Valvoline SynPower or Castrol Edge.

If your oil pressure is still within specs, I wouldn't worry about it much but I would still use the heavier oil for your situation.

 

[zeng]

Originally Posted By: hatt
You've already replaced the tensioners at under 80K. Supposedly low oil pressure helps kill the tensioners. I'd be moving up to to a 30 or 40 for sure.


+1

More so for towing.

 

[Soak_n_Fused]

Originally Posted By: motor_oil_madman
The oil is thinning out cause it's getting hot from the towing, thus reducing the pressure. I'm surprised you have a real oil pressure gauge on that truck.


even though my oil temp gauge says its only 5 to 10 degrees warmer?!

 

[Soak_n_Fused]

Originally Posted By: MNgopher
So, what exactly is the problem here?

Is the oil pressure out of spec after towing for an hour at idle? Or just lower than what it is before towing for a period of time? (it isn't clear if you are saying you are at 5-7 psi, or if its 5-7 psi lower). If the former, then sure I see a problem. If the latter, I don't.

Most sources I'm seeing state the pressure should be tested at 2000 rpms and should be 50-70 psi. Some recommendations of 25psi at idle minimum. With what you posted at 38 psi at idle, then losing 7 puts you at 31 psi hot idle which is fine.

Currently running a 2004 F150 5.4 3V, original tensioners phasers and solenoids and 174,000 miles. Conventional 5w20 (or semi syn s it may actually be) of whatever name brand is on sale. Tows a 4000 lb boat fairly regularly. Noisy engine, but works well enough and doesn't owe me a thing.


Just 5 to 7 psi lower so at idle im running about 30ish instead of just under 40

 

[Soak_n_Fused]

Originally Posted By: dnewton3
Originally Posted By: Soak_n_Fused
Here's my concern I have a 2005 f150 5.4 that I tow my 5000 lb boat with ...


First, Welcome to the Site! (not sure how long you may or may not have been lurking, but glad you're a member now)

Next, get a UOA. Find out how the engine is performing currently before you go changing a bunch of stuff, possibly needlessly. If your UOA shows normal wear rates, then there's nothing to worry about. If your wear is above normal, then perhaps a fluid selection alternative might be warranted; and you would need to validate the change actually did what you wanted by running more UOAs after the switch. But until you understand your starting point, then you have no ability to declare success or failure from any change.

Inputs such as oil pressure and temps are indicators of a potential change, but wear rates actually speak to what is happening in the engine. Don't jump to a conclusion. First [censored] where you are at, then decide if change is needed. If so, then alter only one variable and test again.



Or, you can be like most BITOGers and just "want" you way into a thicker synthetic; you would not be alone in that regard. Many here fall victim to their own self-induced panic and never ask the right questions or wait for the true answers.



Note - moving this to the PCMO; that's what you're using and not HDEO related.


thank you for having me and ive bee learning not lurking ha I agree with the UOA I have also been monitoring my oil on changes
I empty it into a shallow clean oil pan and run it through a filter and look for particles

 

[Soak_n_Fused]

I appreciate all the responses I tried to provides some answers to those questions
my main few questions are:

does a 5w30 really provide more film protection?

Is the differences in viscosity going to change oil flow?

those tolerances are pretty tight going into the cam phasers and vvt solenoids

my oil pressure is good for the truck I want it to stay that way though

I just changed to the mobil 1 EP and the truck starts quieter even more noticeable after it sits for a weekend

the motor was just replaced with a used one that's why is got all new timing parts the truck actually has 240xxx miles on it

 

[SwampSurvivor]

There's nothing wrong with your truck and there's nothing wrong with running 5w-20 in your truck with nothing wrong with it.

The oil pressure on my Jeep 4.0 is usually 20 or so hot idle. After towing my popup on the highway in 2nd gear at 60MPH (3700 RPM or so), it dropped down to 15 or so PSI. Once the load on the engine was reduced it went back to it's normal-ish pressure.

Still within spec. No issues.

 

[hatt]

Did the original engine lose oil pressure when towing? Losing 20-25% of oil pressure because you're towing 5K lbs doesn't sound right.