Struggling with 2003 Camry last night

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Yesterday, I tried working on my camry, and I struggled. I'll list what I struggled with.

First, to change the ball joint, do I have to take the wheel off? After lifting it up on a jack/jack stands, i saw that I could see the ball joint underneath if i crawled under, and that it takes a 17mm socket/wrench, not 19mm, but can you take it out with just a 17mm wrench, or do you need more specialized tools, and can you take it out and replace it without removing the wheel?

Speaking of wheels, it brings me to the next point. I stuggled taking the lug nuts off. Two of them on that front passenger wheel (lower front passenger/right ball joint is supposedly "bad") just would not come off. I used pb blaster, I used a crossbar lug wrench and used a hammer to hit the other side of the crossbar, and I tried stepping on it and it just wouldn't move. Would wd40 help, or is somethign wrong and i"m not using the right technique to remove the lug nuts? I have the car serviced at belle/discount tire, so they might overtighten it, so how do you deal with that, and when you put the nuts back on, how much do you need to tighten it by? Hand tight definitely isn't enough, but how much more/beyond do you go after you hand tigten it with the lug wrench? I heard you use a torque wrench, but if you don't have that, could you tighten it effectively with a lug wrench? And do I need to remove the wheel?

Speaking of ball joints, I saw the joint and it wasn't leaking oil and seemed fine. What other steps can I do to inspect that ball joint to determine if it's going bad or not?

Now, onto another area I struggled on. I planned to change just the filter yesterday as the oil is 1000 miles but the filter has 5000 on it, but I struggled to take the filter off. It woulnd't come off, and I have that plastic cap thing that you put over a socket wrench. Would a metal cap that goes over the filter be any better? In addition, I tried those other filter wrenches, the one that look like pliers and that woulnd't work on my car as you can't get you hand in there with that, and the type that wraps around also doesn't work, so would a metal cap wrench work better?

I also tried changing out the washer pump, as the washer fluid isn't coming out anymore, and I bought an ACI part to replace the denso, but the one I got doesn't look like the denso at all. Should I return it or have them reverify it's the rigth part as the ACI also makes a delco part and they could've gotten it mixed up? Any experiences with the camry ACI aftermarket vs the denso oem pump? There's a junkyard with my car, so I'm considering getting a denso from the junkyard. That's about it for now, and thanks.
 
And I tried draining some coolant. I put in the zerex asian but I saw some green coolant come out, it was overall pink but had a green hue to it. Is that normal in that the zerex asian is actually still green and taht green is its base color yet it appears pink, or is it just straight pink, and the green was from green coolant that was in the system that mixed with the zerex before I put the zerex in? Thanks.
 
If you can't get the tire/ wheel off you shouldn't be doing ball joint/ suspension work. Lugs go to 76 ft/lb.

The ball joint is held to the control arm with 3x 17mm fasteners, and you also have to get the castle nut out of the spindle. It'll be under the CV joint where it goes through the hub.

The internet can't really comment on your green coolant service history. Most of the universal green coolants are only very slightly green, with the hopes that they'll adopt the color of what used to be in there.
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
If you can't get the tire/ wheel off you shouldn't be doing ball joint/ suspension work. Lugs go to 76 ft/lb.
+1000000000000000000000000000000000
 
1) yes you need to take the tire off to take the ball joint off. You could un bolt everything, but to get a hammer to strike the knuckle, or fit a ball joint tool in there the wheel needs to be off

2) they might have over torqued it, or it could be cross threaded. Either way, without air power, get the appropriate 21 mm socket and breaker bar. Look up thetechnique where you use the vehicles power to crack them free. As to tightening by hand. I can approximate
by hand 100 ft lbs with a 20 inch breaker. I've also been doing this for years. Tighten it up as best you can and bring it into a tire shop and ask for a retorque

3) ball joints dont leak oil. They have a small amount of grease, ant there may be some that dripps from where you add if applicable, but before they fail they get loose and have play. On a mcpherson setup rase the vehicle, unlock the steering, grab the tire at the 4 oclock and 9oclock and shake it side to side. If its loose something down there has play. To confirm have someone watch atd tell you what isnt tight

4) HF or most tool mongers sell a form of a three jaw self tighteng socket . Buy that instead

5) manufacturers change parts to fix problems with the OEM, or to simplify production lines. If it plug in to electrical, and fits the resovour, run it

6) that zerex is likely a universal coolant. Drain the old stuff, pour the new stuff. Color is determined by the dye the manufacturer thought was neat
 
Originally Posted By: 01_celica_gt
Originally Posted By: eljefino
If you can't get the tire/ wheel off you shouldn't be doing ball joint/ suspension work. Lugs go to 76 ft/lb.
+1000000000000000000000000000000000


this.
you state that you didn't notice the ball joint leaking oil -- that's because it doesn't contain oil.
it's clear that you don't know anything about the task at hand. PLEASE take the car to a competent shop, to avoid screwing up anything, and sustain an inevitable injury.this is an accident just waiting to happen, so to speak.
your words "there's a junkyard with my car ..." -- don't know what that means.
DO NOT attempt this yourself.
good luck, and have an accident free day.
 
So I was about to respond to this and I clicked on "view posts" for the OP.

Yup, just as I suspected.

Engineer20 and Avery4 should get together (unless they're the same person) and discuss the merits of public transportation.
 
Even stood on it? I jump up and down to loosen lug nuts.

I study youtube videos for a week or two before tacking a new job.
 
The nuts are tapered and sometimes rust to the wheel where they contact it. PB the nuts and let them soak. Heat from a torch also helps but you'll mess up the finish on an alloy wheel. An air powered impact gun is the pro way, A tire shop can do that for you, but put some grease on the nuts and the lug threads and derate the torque by 15 % when reinstalling. You might want to spray some grease on the back of the wheel where it contacts the rotor so the wheel doesn't stick to the rotor. I agree the ball joints should be left to a pro. Part of being a good driveway mechanic is knowing what NOT to do yourself.
 
Originally Posted By: KzMitch
So I was about to respond to this and I clicked on "view posts" for the OP.

Yup, just as I suspected.

Engineer20 and Avery4 should get together (unless they're the same person) and discuss the merits of public transportation.
thumbsup2.gif
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Originally Posted By: engineer20
First, to change the ball joint, do I have to take the wheel off?


That does it right there. Put the wrench down and slowly back away from the vehicle.

Dang it! HangFire beat me to it!
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: engineer20
First, to change the ball joint, do I have to take the wheel off?


That does it right there. Put the wrench down and slowly back away from the vehicle.

Dang it! HangFire beat me to it!


LOL! "Do I have to take the wheel off?"

crackmeup2.gif
 
i went to a junkyard yesterday to get a washer pump and it surprised me. it was a denso 12v i saw on a camry 92-96 of 2 generations ago, it worked! the part where the wire plugs in on the top works, and the part where it goes into the reservoir works too, but that one thing on the side is a little different between that and mine, in terms of direction, but it connects to the one on the bottom side (that rubber hose) so it worked! surprisingly, so i returned the aap washer pump as that one clearly had a funny wiring, it was the one by ACI

would a breaker bar help get my 17 inch nuts for the ball joint off?
at the junkyard, i found an 04 camry with the suspension components dropped on the ground. i tried pulling the ball joint off the junkyard camry, but that didn't work either

and i looked for a mirror too bu t the 04 was pretty much stripped of everything and didn't ahve a mirror but there were plenty of 92-99 camrys, would those mirros fit? i'm guessing no because of a different bolt pattern but i coulnd't check as the 04 camry in the junkyard had its doors removed.

the bumper i tried removing, the back bumper cover but struggled with the nut as the screw/bolt the threads went way out from the nut and i couldn't fit a socket above the nut to get it out to remove the bumper cover, but that might be a worthwhile part from the car. anyways, i also tried looking for a spare rim but that camry was stripped of its rims/tires, so i found one off a lexus es, 1998
tire size was the same and also a 15 inch rim, and i got the rim and tire for 31 dollars, but i heard later on the widths differed by .5
is that ok ? to use as a spare? to use permanently? thanks.
 
so i looked at lexuses, and i was able to find 2 older lexuses, one 1997 lexus (looked like an avalon) with steel p20565r15 tires and rims, but that car had wheel locks on the wheels and no wheel lock key! (this was a u pull it junkyard) and then i found a 98 lexus es. That was a previous gen, but it had p20565r15 tires and a 15 inch steel wheel which is just like that on my toyota, so i bought it. it had wheel locks too, but one of its wheels on the front was loosened and on the floor and this car had a full size spare which was not used! and right in the trunk! so i thought i hit the jackpot when i found this as this rim was completely new and so was the tire (unlike the ones on the car, the ones on the car had rusty rims) and the one in the trunk was nearly new, so i got the rim and tire for 32 dollars (a good deal) as it was steel and steel wheels are cheap, whereas their aluminum wheels cost 60+ dollars, BUT i later went to a toyota dealer's parts department to ask about fit and they said that while the diaameter is the same, or radius, the width differs
one wheel was 15 by 6.5 (camry, i think) whereas the lexus is 15 by 6.0


I'm using this as a spare, and I put it in my trunk, so would this be good for a spare? also, can this car take a donut as a spare even though my car came with a full size spare just like the lexus did? what about as a regular wheel? if i use this normally , as in i dont' get another tire for a while so i keep my spare on, will it work, or might it cause issues, or is the width difference tolerable? thanks
 
also, how accurate are those dealer inspections? i had a full inspection, complimentary, from victory toyota beacuse of their coupon, but they told me I had a bunch of issues, that I don't think I have. they mentioned I have a leaking water pump (if such is the case, and i get someone else to do it, do the serpentine too, right, to save on labor?) a leaking timing cover (oil leak), and then sway bar bushings and a rear stabilizer bar (it was just the bushings, last year, now it's the bar too? This is more of an optional repair, right?) but they didn't mention a baall joint.

Are their inspections accurate, or are they just saying stuff to make more money? I spilled some coolant, so could that be why they think I have a leaking water pump, as my coolant level is full and always has been on full (used zerex asian though discovered it was sort of green, somebody used green to top off my coolant? so i know next time, don't have them top off my coolant, request that!) and what about the oil leak?

then, yesterday at 5:30 i went to page toyota for an inspection and they didn't even fill out that form and did a quick inspection and told me a leaky water pump, and a valve cover gasket, and the same thing with the reaer bushings/bar but now they did mention an oil leak but this one said it's the valve cover gasket, whereas the other said timing, so is it accurate?

i just had my valve cover gasket done a while ago and i don't notice any oil leak. should i bring it back to the people that did my valve cover gasket to see if it's leaking or under warranty? thanks.
 
what's that thing, that air thing called that the guy suggested i might need, an air drill? for the ball joint project and also to maybe remove the wheel? thanks. and what's a good price range for it? are harbor freight tools any good? they're cheap but do they last, or not really?
 
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