PP 5w-20 / 12.650 mi on Oil / 277,650 mi on Car

Impressive!

Aside from normal maintenance what major repairs has your Charger needed over the 277k?

At an average of ~30k/year may we assume you are driving mostly highway with minimal "cold starts"? If so, you are proof positive that highway miles and fewer cold starts are easiest on an engine/transmission.

Nice job!
 
Originally Posted By: k24a4
Impressive!

Aside from normal maintenance what major repairs has your Charger needed over the 277k?

At an average of ~30k/year may we assume you are driving mostly highway with minimal "cold starts"? If so, you are proof positive that highway miles and fewer cold starts are easiest on an engine/transmission.

Nice job!



Yes... mostly highway.

Here are a list of big repairs.
- New AC Pump at 140K.
- New Inner and Outer Tie Rods.
- All front suspension components replaced at 200k. Ball Joint, Tension Struts, End Links, and all bushings.
- New bilstein shocks @ 250K.
- Complete Brake Job. Rebuilt all 4 calipers. New rotors and pads. Stainless brake lines.
- New Instrument Cluster.
- New EGR Valve.

There are some minor repairs like hood props, some trim replacements, interior light replacements, new hoses, filters yada yada.
 
Just getting around to this report. Looks great! Ive had my 3.6 Charger for about a year and a half and am close to 36K. 100 miles a day r/t commute 98% highway. I'd love to still have this car at 277k.

PP for me as well. Last fill before this one was Pennz Plat Ultra, just over 9K on it. I thought it made the engine sound louder and more clatter.

Back to PP 5W20 for good
 
Originally Posted By: Ramblejam
Why not go to 0w-40 and cut both consumption and iron in half?



probably because the 5w20 has worked for 277k
 
Originally Posted By: Doog
Originally Posted By: Ramblejam
Why not go to 0w-40 and cut both consumption and iron in half?



probably because the 5w20 has worked for 277k


+1
 
Originally Posted By: 2006_Charger_R/T
Originally Posted By: Spector
Copper is definitely trending up over the last year


Yeah, I noticed the Cu was up. I have a UAO for every oil change since the car was new... I plan on graphing the Cu. me --> nerd.
laugh.gif




I look forward to any lifetime data you can share with us! I think your case is unique here on BiTOG; you've owner the car since new, done UOAs on every change, you have almost 300k miles on the motor, and it's a serious motor! If you wanted to put all your data in a spreadsheet I would be very interested to see that. I'd be happy to help, too.

A separate question for you; what oil was in use when you sampled on 8/30/14? It has the second highest recent TBN, the highest flash point, and perhaps no make-up oil.
 
Hope I'm not hijacking the thread too much. Slightly off topic, but not entirely... Are there more HEMI owners with same or higher miles as above? I am really tempted to pull a trigger on a Magnum R/T, but really concerned about reliability. Thank you all in advance!
 
Lol, 277k and someone is quick to say you should do something different. Don´t worry, though. On another thread with a Pentastar that failed at 625k miles, someone suggested a thicker oil would have done better. 😂🤣😅
 
Hope I'm not hijacking the thread too much. Slightly off topic, but not entirely... Are there more HEMI owners with same or higher miles as above? I am really tempted to pull a trigger on a Magnum R/T, but really concerned about reliability. Thank you all in advance!

I have an even better question. Four years later does he still own if and what's the mileage?

That comment about one quart every 6,000 mi in a Gen 3 Hemi not being to bad is hilarious.

If you have ever drove a Gen 1 331 you would know just how hilarious....
 
Still looking for evidence that 20 wt oils cause higher engine wear and shorter engine life.

It depends. It's not the oil viscosity, it's how well the engine was built. Certainly today's 0W-40 are very impressive as they are basically a replacement for old school 0W-30 and 5W-30 oils. The point of going slightly thicker is to compensate for manufacturing imperfections and engine wear. If engines were built from forget steel with every single piece CNC cut then you would get away with 0W-16 and 0W-20 in heavy duty engines for hundreds of thousands of miles. However, there are economic realities which make such engines price prohibitive, especially when we talk big motors. Another way to compensate for wear are high mileage oils. Guess what: they are slightly thicker at the same viscosity numbers and have a beefed up additive package. Who would have thought that oil manufacturers know the things some of us refuse to accept as facts...
 
5w30 is not old school. It is a CAFE oil.

10w40 is old school. SAE30 is old school.

I'm sorry you misunderstood me. I'm talking about 0W-30 and 5W-30 API SL oils. The 0W-40 API SN oils we have are more or less like those oils. Remember German Castrol?
 
I don't think CAFE oils are a big deal in OHV Roller Hyd Cam Engines with well tuned EFI. We have excellent luck with 5W-30 or 5W-20 depending on the oil temps they run.

I think viscosity is very engine specific. Some engines are going to have a hard time surviving on 10W-60 and I predict others will go 500,000 mi on 0W-16.
 
I don't think CAFE oils are a big deal in OHV Roller Hyd Cam Engines with well tuned EFI. We have excellent luck with 5W-30 or 5W-20 depending on the oil temps they run.

I think viscosity is very engine specific. Some engines are going to have a hard time surviving on 10W-60 and I predict others will go 500,000 mi on 0W-16.

I think you're absolutely right.

There is a video on YouTube about a guy who ran Castrol 10W-60 in his 1.6L gasoline Audi (in Europe) and was complaining about oil consumption. He was so happy with the results when he switched to Castrol 0W-40.
 
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