I like most on BITOG have a standard we go by with our OCI's and that's usually by mileage, In the past on my 5.3 Silverado ive always done 1 year or 5,000 miles with whater Syn was on sale. I know that's not a lot of miles for syn however that's just what ive stuck to as this truck does see some heavy duty pulling trailers from time to time. That said Ive used the truck little this year and only have about 2,000 miles since my last OCI. Im getting the itch to drop the syn and just go with a conventional and stick to my once a year change. I absolutely hate the idea of dropping that syn out of the sump with only 2,000 on it. The truck never makes less that 20 to 30 minutes runs down the road when I do drive it so the oil does have a chance to get warm. so what im wanting are opinions on time. whats the longest youd feel comfortable leaving syn oil in a sump on a non daily driver.
Flipping my script on OCI'S
- Thread starter OtisBlkR1
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I would leave the oil in there until next spring.
Syn + winter temps = happy feelings. Keep it in till spring
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I have 5 years 5000 miles on a 'summer' driver. Go another year without worry. Just top it off for consumption.
When corresponding with the Pennzoil team recently (60 days ago) they were confident that PP oil sitting on your garage shelf or in your sump would be plenty usable until its usage was reached (low TBN I believed is what they referred to) 7,000-8,000 miles of usage. They did not provide me with any documentation for this however I would assume whether Pennzoil or any other name brand synthetic you would be fine using what's in the sump until 7,000 miles. I would translate this into running it to a minimum of 5,000 miles. Just my 2 cents. Sorry for any misuse in acronyms, I'm certainly no pro here.
Originally Posted By: Georgiey22
When corresponding with the Pennzoil team recently (60 days ago) they were confident that PP oil sitting on your garage shelf or in your sump would be plenty usable until its usage was reached (low TBN I believed is what they referred to) 7,000-8,000 miles of usage. They did not provide me with any documentation for this however I would assume whether Pennzoil or any other name brand synthetic you would be fine using what's in the sump until 7,000 miles. I would translate this into running it to a minimum of 5,000 miles. Just my 2 cents. Sorry for any misuse in acronyms, I'm certainly no pro here.
agreed, however once its put into service contamination does play a roll (in the sump) and at the rate im going it could take 3-4 years to reach 7,000 miles.
When corresponding with the Pennzoil team recently (60 days ago) they were confident that PP oil sitting on your garage shelf or in your sump would be plenty usable until its usage was reached (low TBN I believed is what they referred to) 7,000-8,000 miles of usage. They did not provide me with any documentation for this however I would assume whether Pennzoil or any other name brand synthetic you would be fine using what's in the sump until 7,000 miles. I would translate this into running it to a minimum of 5,000 miles. Just my 2 cents. Sorry for any misuse in acronyms, I'm certainly no pro here.
agreed, however once its put into service contamination does play a roll (in the sump) and at the rate im going it could take 3-4 years to reach 7,000 miles.
Originally Posted By: Georgiey22
When corresponding with the Pennzoil team recently (60 days ago) they were confident that PP oil sitting on your garage shelf or in your sump would be plenty usable until its usage was reached (low TBN I believed is what they referred to) 7,000-8,000 miles of usage.
Right, but all bets are off if you're short tripping, like I do (I know the OP said he doesn't).
TBN is one thing, but TAN is another. And if you don't let your oil reach operating temp and stay there long enough to burn off moisture, fuel, and other contaminants, you've got issues. That is why I change oil in my 530i annually, even though it's only about 2k miles - most of it 3-4 mile trips.
When corresponding with the Pennzoil team recently (60 days ago) they were confident that PP oil sitting on your garage shelf or in your sump would be plenty usable until its usage was reached (low TBN I believed is what they referred to) 7,000-8,000 miles of usage.
Right, but all bets are off if you're short tripping, like I do (I know the OP said he doesn't).
TBN is one thing, but TAN is another. And if you don't let your oil reach operating temp and stay there long enough to burn off moisture, fuel, and other contaminants, you've got issues. That is why I change oil in my 530i annually, even though it's only about 2k miles - most of it 3-4 mile trips.
I run GC in our 2001 Impala and change it at 8000 miles which takes almost exactly 24 months.
Originally Posted By: Georgiey22
When corresponding with the Pennzoil team recently (60 days ago) they were confident that PP oil sitting on your garage shelf or in your sump would be plenty usable until its usage was reached (low TBN I believed is what they referred to) 7,000-8,000 miles of usage. They did not provide me with any documentation for this however I would assume whether Pennzoil or any other name brand synthetic you would be fine using what's in the sump until 7,000 miles. I would translate this into running it to a minimum of 5,000 miles. Just my 2 cents. Sorry for any misuse in acronyms, I'm certainly no pro here.
It's good to hear Pennzoil don't demand you change the oil at 1 year, regardless of miles or usage.
I'm in the same boat as the OP, I do low but gentle miles. Going by distance in the OM I should change every two years, but it also says 1 year regardless of distance. I feel a full synthic with no real winter here and no short tripping can go longer. (OM says 15,000KM or 12 months)
Reading the back of a Valvoline SynPower long life oil, it says up to 30,000KM and 2 years (depends on car manufacturer).
I'm thinking of doing 15,000KM and two years, on a good quality full synthetic.
When corresponding with the Pennzoil team recently (60 days ago) they were confident that PP oil sitting on your garage shelf or in your sump would be plenty usable until its usage was reached (low TBN I believed is what they referred to) 7,000-8,000 miles of usage. They did not provide me with any documentation for this however I would assume whether Pennzoil or any other name brand synthetic you would be fine using what's in the sump until 7,000 miles. I would translate this into running it to a minimum of 5,000 miles. Just my 2 cents. Sorry for any misuse in acronyms, I'm certainly no pro here.
It's good to hear Pennzoil don't demand you change the oil at 1 year, regardless of miles or usage.
I'm in the same boat as the OP, I do low but gentle miles. Going by distance in the OM I should change every two years, but it also says 1 year regardless of distance. I feel a full synthic with no real winter here and no short tripping can go longer. (OM says 15,000KM or 12 months)
Reading the back of a Valvoline SynPower long life oil, it says up to 30,000KM and 2 years (depends on car manufacturer).
I'm thinking of doing 15,000KM and two years, on a good quality full synthetic.
Your oci are long enough time wise to stay with syn if that's what you're used to doing. It does take longer than 20-30 minutes to get oil hot in your winter temps.
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
And if you don't let your oil reach operating temp and stay there long enough to burn off moisture, fuel, and other contaminants, you've got issues..
Just go by how the old oil looks when you change it. If it looks normal, stick to the same time interval.
From machinerylubrication.com, Dipstick Oil Analysis:
" Lesson No. 4 - Signs of an Aged Oil
• Oil is not like a fine wine that gets better over time. Instead, it ages at a rate that is influenced by driving conditions, fuel quality, engine age, motor oil quality and climate. If not changed in time, your oil will wither and fail to protect your engine.
• So, let’s take a close look at the oil on the dipstick. The oil should look smooth and glossy and somewhat transparent. If it has sludgy deposits or grainy particles of dirt, an oil change is overdue. The same is true if the oil looks too thick, is too dark (opaque), and/or has a putrid rotten-cheese smell. It may even look like chocolate milk.
• If you still don’t know whether you need an oil change, consider doing a blotter spot test.
• Oxidized and contaminated oil will lose interfacial tension. A simple test for interfacial tension is to place a drop of used oil from the dipstick on the surface of water. If the oil drop spreads out over the water’s surface (instead of beading up like a new oil) it may be time for an oil change."
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
And if you don't let your oil reach operating temp and stay there long enough to burn off moisture, fuel, and other contaminants, you've got issues..
Just go by how the old oil looks when you change it. If it looks normal, stick to the same time interval.
From machinerylubrication.com, Dipstick Oil Analysis:
" Lesson No. 4 - Signs of an Aged Oil
• Oil is not like a fine wine that gets better over time. Instead, it ages at a rate that is influenced by driving conditions, fuel quality, engine age, motor oil quality and climate. If not changed in time, your oil will wither and fail to protect your engine.
• So, let’s take a close look at the oil on the dipstick. The oil should look smooth and glossy and somewhat transparent. If it has sludgy deposits or grainy particles of dirt, an oil change is overdue. The same is true if the oil looks too thick, is too dark (opaque), and/or has a putrid rotten-cheese smell. It may even look like chocolate milk.
• If you still don’t know whether you need an oil change, consider doing a blotter spot test.
• Oxidized and contaminated oil will lose interfacial tension. A simple test for interfacial tension is to place a drop of used oil from the dipstick on the surface of water. If the oil drop spreads out over the water’s surface (instead of beading up like a new oil) it may be time for an oil change."
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If you are only putting 2000 miles a year on average, theoretically you could easily go a very long time, even 3 years as an example because the body will rust way before the engine shows any signs of quitting.
Get this gizmo to check your oil condition, check every 6 months using dipstick drops:
http://www.amazon.com/Lubricheck-Motor-Oil-Tester-Instantly/dp/B00HBAG9AC
Then go up to 2 years on a full syn like you're using.
Use a Fram Ultra that has completely synthetic long-lasting fibers for the media and a high dirt holding capacity.
The gizmo will test for basic fundamental contamination & viscosity changes that change the electrical permittivity and resistance of the oil sampled off the dipstick, similar to what BMW and Mercedes have installed in their sumps to monitor oil quality.
http://www.amazon.com/Lubricheck-Motor-Oil-Tester-Instantly/dp/B00HBAG9AC
Then go up to 2 years on a full syn like you're using.
Use a Fram Ultra that has completely synthetic long-lasting fibers for the media and a high dirt holding capacity.
The gizmo will test for basic fundamental contamination & viscosity changes that change the electrical permittivity and resistance of the oil sampled off the dipstick, similar to what BMW and Mercedes have installed in their sumps to monitor oil quality.
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So I dumped the oil, That was the blackest, thickest oil ive ever seen come out of anything I own or have ever owned (im 40) with just a little over 15 months & 3,000 miles. It seriously looked like a tar pit in the drain pan.. I put in Mobil clean 5000 and im going to do a short OCI on that, then back to the SYN. For reference ive gone 6,000 miles and the oil was a dark brown, but nothing I would call Black.. Im completely perplexed by this oil that came out.. Ive owned the truck since 37,000 miles and done annual oil changes on it ranging from 4,500 up to 7,000 miles and at one year it was always a dark brown.. Never absolutely pitch Black.. I know were not suppose to judge on color but I sure feel better with fresh oil in the sump.
That's one of the indicators I use for low mileage (use) vehicles. I have truck in the back yard with 5 year old oil... But it still looks golden and it was on an overhauled motor.
May change it this year... Very low mile (used) BBC that I only feed when I need POWER
May change it this year... Very low mile (used) BBC that I only feed when I need POWER
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My old Escort was sitting on the garage from 2007 to 2011 or 12 with some synblend, a Havoline if I remember correctly, that I changed less than 300 miles before I parked the car for the last time, and when I decided to run the car again, the engine was running just like the last time I drove it. I did an oil change just a few miles after this run and the oil was clear like new. It wasn't easy to let that oil go, but I wouldn't have peace of mind to drive a car with a 5yo oil in the sump.
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