2006 Evo IX MR UOA - AutoX & Track

[kyoo]

Attaching my UOA for input here:

First one (on the right) is 48 Autocrosses and some street pulls for tuning. A very good sample. Amsoil 10w30 ZROD, Amsoil EA15K20 filter.

Second one in the middle is actually the 3rd one by date. 60 minutes of track runs. Again looks very good. Filter is a carry over from the 2nd change. Amsoil 10w30 ZROD, Fram Ultra filter.

3rd one (on the left) is the 2nd change. 42 runs autox. Amsoil 10w30 ZROd, Fram Ultra. My questions start here -- same oil, nearly half the mileage, less autox runs - more wear, and more contaminants. Air filter was the same - actually I put a sleeve on the air filter, but still more contaminants.

1) Is the higher contaminants due to the oil filter?
2) Is the higher wear due to the higher contaminants?

I realize one run of the oil filter isn't an end all test, but I see no point going back to the Fram Ultra, until the Amsoil filter shows a variance like what the Fram shows..

Appreciate any input.

 

[A_Harman]

What higher wear? One or two points of Iron, Copper, or Aluminum isn't anything to worry about.

 

[shinyWheels]

What kind of air filter?

 

[kyoo]

got it, thanks - saw more silicon and sodium on this run too - same filter. does this mean, all else equal, that the oil filter didn't strain it out?

someone had said given the tolerances, that these particles were too small for an oil filter to catch anyway

air filter is an amsoil ea46 or something - cone style filter, covered with an air filter sleeve from amsoil as well.

 

[Greasymechtech]

What mods/tuning?
oil temp/psi?

Look at mileage on the runs and multiple wear/miles by 5x or 10x for a looksy on what it could look like in a longer run.

Excellent oil. With frequent change intervals, no need for fancy filter.

Try a 5w40 HDEO(T6, Delo, Delvac) or a 0w40(Castrol Mobil1). Use a generic Purolator, Napa, or Fram filter, Mitsu filter, or the Hyundai filter.

Run the oil longer for better data. 3k is a good start.

Si... oil defoamer

http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/29128/sodium-potassium-oil

Amsoil cones:
https://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g2241.pdf

Donaldson powercores
http://www.volant.com/filters.asp?filterType=powercore

 

[kyoo]

Originally Posted By: Greasymechtech
What mods/tuning?
oil temp/psi?

Look at mileage on the runs and multiple wear/miles by 5x or 10x for a looksy on what it could look like in a longer run.

Excellent oil. With frequent change intervals, no need for fancy filter.

Try a 5w40 HDEO(T6, Delo, Delvac) or a 0w40(Castrol Mobil1). Use a generic Purolator, Napa, or Fram filter, Mitsu filter, or the Hyundai filter.

Run the oil longer for better data. 3k is a good start.

Si... oil defoamer

http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/29128/sodium-potassium-oil

Amsoil cones:
https://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g2241.pdf

Donaldson powercores
http://www.volant.com/filters.asp?filterType=powercore



mild power, stock boost. 300whp. trying to limit the oil changes based on usage instead of mileage. Mileage can have wide variances in how I run the car. No oil temp/psi measures, only did one track day. The rest is autox.

Basically you're saying that, for the mileage, the wear isn't that great. For the use, maybe, but in this case I think the use is more important. I can do a run on 3k street miles where I'm hardly ever in boost and just drudging along normal traffic but I don't know if that's going to be of any relevance for me, except maybe to get a baseline comparison of how much wear increases when I race the car vs just drive it normally.

Will run the next on Purolator and see how the data changes.

 

[A_Harman]

AMSoil Z-Rod is a stout oil, and there is no need to change it every 1000 miles. You are running mild power with stock boost, and that's good. Learn how to drive the car to its fullest capability before "trying" to make it faster. Most tuner specials handle worse than the stock cars they were derived from, and are unreliable in the bargain.

I don't think the wear numbers would be any better with a 40-weight than with Z-Rod.

 

[kyoo]

Originally Posted By: A_Harman
AMSoil Z-Rod is a stout oil, and there is no need to change it every 1000 miles. You are running mild power with stock boost, and that's good. Learn how to drive the car to its fullest capability before "trying" to make it faster. Most tuner specials handle worse than the stock cars they were derived from, and are unreliable in the bargain.

I don't think the wear numbers would be any better with a 40-weight than with Z-Rod.


Thanks - already went farrr down that route (upgraded turbo, built drivetrain), and parted it out, and setup a new (this) Evo with mild power + reliability & suspension. Enjoying this car. Will put a longer run on the oil after I wrap up this testing and see how it turns out.