2011 Mazda2 1.5l - Pennzoil Platinum 0W20 - 4826mi

[flatlander757]

New here, first post!


Anyway my 2011 Mazda2 is autocrossed about twice a month and otherwise driven 100 miles round trip daily to work and back.

I decided to finally do a UOA because I switched to a K&N filter/intake system and know some report it will allow more crud in. I did this UOA to get a baseline on silicone content with a factory intake and OEM Mazda air filter. If this were JUST a daily driver I'd keep the OE intake and be fine, but the added power is quite noticeable and needed to remain competitive.


It's 0W20 Pennzoil Platinum and a Purolator white filter(I normally use the PureOne but it was out of stock last time).


There were 4 auto-x events on this sample for reference(I honestly don't think this really matters... ~20 runs that are 40-50 sec each driving like an idiot in a parking lot is hardly severe like track abuse).


I think it looks like a very good fit for this engine... I was planning on trying Redline 0W20 some time in the future, but frankly I can't say I'd expect enough benefit to justify it. I doubt it would be worth any HP and wear can't get much lower.


Any thoughts?

 

[gregk24]

Originally Posted By: flatlander757

Any thoughts?


Keep doing what you are doing! No need for Shamzoil (joking of course, its a good oil) but still, no need in your application.

 

[flatlander757]

Originally Posted By: gregk24
Originally Posted By: flatlander757

Any thoughts?


Keep doing what you are doing! No need for Shamzoil (joking of course, its a good oil) but still, no need in your application.


Thanks!

Does anyone have a VOA for Pennzoil Platinum 0W20? I'm a bit curious about the viscosity change(if it gets thicker or thinner with use).



Also does anyone else have a Mazda2 UOA for me to check/reference? Did a search and found only one, but not a 2011+ with the ZY-VE engine. (Was like an 06 so assuming it was also in another market too).

 

[camrydriver111]

Great report.

 

[lubricatosaurus]

Originally Posted By: flatlander757

It's 0W20 Pennzoil Platinum and a Purolator white filter(I normally use the PureOne but it was out of stock last time).


You got great results. I doubt if any other oil could do better here. Low iron wear is what I mostly look for, and yours was great. Viscosity did rise a bit, but that just means it saw some high temperatures and oxidized, getting thicker. "Too thick" at kv100 would be about 11 for that 0w-20 in the Mazda, so you had enough margin.

One caveat: Purolator oil filters, the classic white one and PureOnes, have been known to tear recently. Don't know if Purolator has fixed their problem where they get a rip in them near the seam inside. I'd only use Fram Ultra or Fram ToughGaurd in your application.

 

[sdude2k2000]

Outstanding UOA. Is this a SkyActiv engine?

 

[Greasymechtech]

Insolubles .1, filter working fine.

Oil oxidized into a 30 grade with
Consider a TBN/TAN for data.

No real wear. Platinum good stuff.

Try the Mazda 0w20 Moly oil.

Think of all the HP you can free up with a good and thin 7.5-8.5cst oil

Any oil consumption?

 

[flatlander757]

Originally Posted By: lubricatosaurus
Originally Posted By: flatlander757

It's 0W20 Pennzoil Platinum and Purolator white filter(I normally use the PureOne but it was out of stock last time).


You got great results. I doubt if any other oil could do better here. Low iron wear is what I mostly look for, and yours was great. Viscosity did rise a bit, but that just means it saw some high temperatures and oxidized, getting thicker. "Too thick" at kv100 would be about 11 for that 0w-20 in the Mazda, so you had enough margin.

One caveat: Purolator oil filters, the classic white one and PureOnes, have been known to tear recently. Don't know if Purolator has fixed their problem where they get a rip in them near the seam inside. I'd only use Fram Ultra or Fram ToughGaurd in your application.


Thanks for the input! And good to know on the filters! Will have to read up some on them...

Originally Posted By: sdude2k2000
Outstanding UOA. Is this a SkyActiv engine?



It is not. The 1.5l is loosely related to the old Protege 1.5l engine, basically updated with aluminum block+head and VVT on the intake side.


https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mazda_Z_engine

Originally Posted By: Greasymechtech
Insolubles .1, filter working fine.

Oil oxidized into a 30 grade with
Consider a TBN/TAN for data.

No real wear. Platinum good stuff.

Try the Mazda 0w20 Moly oil.

Think of all the HP you can free up with a good and thin 7.5-8.5cst oil

Any oil consumption?








Thanks! Zero oil consumption(or not enough to visibly change on the dipstick).


I have been reading up on the Mazda stuff and may give it a chance after my K&N filter experiment has some base numbers to go off of.


I'm not worried about extended drain intervals, what exactly would a TBN/TAN test tell me? I was under the assumption that's primarily what it's for? Is there another purpose I should know about?

 

[lubricatosaurus]

Originally Posted By: flatlander757
I'm not worried about extended drain intervals, what exactly would a TBN/TAN test tell me? I was under the assumption that's primarily what it's for? Is there another purpose I should know about?
Thats right. TBN just measures how much acid-neutralizing potential remains. If going with 6,000 mile drain intervals, and not doing a lot of short trips when acids tend to form, TBN results can be skipped.

 

[lubricatosaurus]

What's interesting about Pennzoil Platinum, is that good results usually happen, with low levels of additives like moly and ZDDP, even low detergents. Good basestocks I'm guessing.

 

[flatlander757]

Originally Posted By: lubricatosaurus
Originally Posted By: flatlander757
I'm not worried about extended drain intervals, what exactly would a TBN/TAN test tell me? I was under the assumption that's primarily what it's for? Is there another purpose I should know about?
Thats right. TBN just measures how much acid-neutralizing potential remains. If going with 6,000 mile drain intervals, and not doing a lot of short trips when acids tend to form, TBN results can be skipped.


Ok thanks, that was why I didn't spend the $10 extra the first time around. I figure ANY oil should be sufficient for 5k intervals basically.

Now my wife's 2012 Equinox with the 2.4 DI engine on the other hand... I will be getting a full test on once she puts 3700ish miles on it, with hopes its good for 5k the next time. It was just changed to CQ 5W30 synthetic and filter. A new topic will be made when that time comes, she doesn't drive nearly as much as I do.

Originally Posted By: lubricatosaurus
What's interesting about Pennzoil Platinum, is that good results usually happen, with low levels of additives like moly and ZDDP, even low detergents. Good basestocks I'm guessing.


I noticed that too and am ASSuming this means the tri-nuclear moly seems to work pretty well, or there is some other kind of anti-wear voodoo doing a great job

Edit: also if I'd known about the Purolator problems sooner I'd have cut open my old filter to check. My PureOne 14612 will be getting dissected at the next change for sure though. I'm thinking I'll give a Fram Toughguard or Ultra a shot next time.

 

[lubricatosaurus]

Originally Posted By: flatlander757
Now my wife's 2012 Equinox with the 2.4 DI engine on the other hand...
That car has the excellent GM OLM oil life monitor to nail down chemical degradation with some accuracy. Just following the OLM precisely using a dexos1 full synthetic provides plenty of reserve capacity.

Originally Posted By: flatlander757
I noticed that too and am ASSuming this means the tri-nuclear moly seems to work pretty well, or there is some other kind of anti-wear voodoo doing a great job

I wonder what Pennzoil Plat is doing. They do have the great GTL gas to liquids basestocks at least. And yes the trinuclear moly certainly works very effectively. Also, if they put in some Esters of some variety, that would not show up in a UOA, though esters would contribute to wear and friction performance.

Originally Posted By: flatlander757
Edit: also if I'd known about the Purolator problems sooner I'd have cut open my old filter to check. My PureOne 14612 will be getting dissected at the next change for sure though. I'm thinking I'll give a Fram Toughguard or Ultra a shot next time.
There was a discussion of the new Purolator filters coming out in a couple of months from now, in the oil filters section of bitog. The top "Boss" synthetic-media Puro filter looks like would be worth a try, but I think a Fram Ultra is currently the top dog.

 

[Greasymechtech]

Assuming oxidative thickening, TBN/TAN will degrade quicker. Its not about extending the OCI. But, you might need to shorten it to prevent oil thickening out of grade.

Wear levels low enough that a well broken-in engine at 100hp isn't stressing the 4 quart sump for this 1.5L engine.

Any oil temp or PSI readings when autocrossing?

Use the cheaper filter. Overfiltration can reduce oil flow/pressure and engine power is used to pump thru that restriction . I'd want the least restrictive filter(or more media from larger filter), lightest oil without wear, lightest gear oil,....