2-3 Shift Flare after ATF drain & fill '13 Corolla

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I did a drain and fill to get out the break in materials in the 4 speed auto tranny in my '13 Corolla with 15k. I did one drain and fill Of exactly 73 oz at 10k miles and today at 15k a second drain and fill of about 72oz as measured.

I use Toyota WS atf as i should. I keep all measuring tools clean and wiped out. I did today's drain and fill and took it for a spin. Up to operating temp. Shifted great/same. Fluid was slightly purple-pink rather than the bright pink of the new. I felt good that i got out the wear in materials out and fresh fluid in. All was well. I checked fluid level on a level surface at correct temp and procedure by the book. Official toyota procedures. No leaks. I even compared the temp of the fluid out to the new fluid going in and it was within 10F differential. I was god [censored] scientific abouy the whole thing.

Then after sitting for a half hour in 50F. I took her for a spin again and she shift FLARED on the first two stoplight accelerations through the 2-3 shift. Id say the flare was quick and a flare of about 150--200 rpm just momentarily. Then if shifted fine.

Did it do damage?

Is this a normal hiccup?

I checked the level again at operating temp and I'd say it is literally hust a hair below the way it read on the dipstick from the factory fill. There is two hot zone notches and it is just past the first notch.

Should i add an ounce or two more? Could a freaking ounce or two make for a shift flare when it cooled for just a half hour?

Im bewildered and scared to drive it tomorrow morn after it really cools and fluid contracts down to the 40F ambient here.
 
Further proof to follow the manufacturer recommended intervals and leave well enough alone. A car with 15k on it doesn't need anything done to the tranny.
 
Originally Posted By: dishdude
Further proof to follow the manufacturer recommended intervals and leave well enough alone. A car with 15k on it doesn't need anything done to the tranny.
+1
 
Originally Posted By: GiveMeAVowel
Could be the TCU is sensing different characteristics of the fresh fluid or too much or too little fluid.


This, you could try disconnecting the battery or just give it some time.
 
Perhaps i didnt account for an ounce or two lost to "cling" on the catch pan and measuring vessel. My searches for shift flare turn up "low line pressure" as a common response..... So i think that may mean she needs a few more ounces. Maybe they like to live more in the middle upper zone of the dipstick hot level zone.

Who'd have thought 1-2 ounced could cause an anomoly, LOL.
 
Is the fluid that is drain & filled the same temperature? You are supposed to reset the learned memory of the ECT anytime the fluid is changed.
 
I did the cooler like flush on our 13 Corolla at 5k miles and again at 35k miles. About to turn 70k and I'll do it then. I use maxlife and have absolutely no issues. You shouldn't have any issues either. Check fluid level after good and hot, see where it's at.
 
I would have not changed that fluid until it needed it.. The shift you felt was probably the tcm doing is job.

If it aint broke don't fix it or it may break, lol

i think you are fine.
 
I doubt you did any harm either to the unit if the level is properly filled. Check the fluid again when its hot as already mentioned. An ounce or two over or under is not going to make any difference.

I read here as well as other sites that there are wear metals shed in new transmissions, and some people believe in an early swap to get it out. After that those early changers claim the pan remains very clean with little metal shed. Does it matter? That's the question. No comment from me.
 
Further proof of nothing.

Flare is caused by new fluids HFM additive. Older fluid, even with 15k, is already showing stress and transmission has adapted to it. That alone justifies the occasional drain/refill.

Even though you measured fluid, make sure that you are properly checking the level. Can't say if its bad assembly line or dealer prep(like those guys actually check anything), but I've seen plenty of underfilled Toyotas.

I would use a temp gauge, IR gun, OBD scanner... and get an accurate temp/level of fluid.

Fluid hot should be at the top of the hot range.
 
I added 5 more ounces! And it is now firmly in the beginning third of the full hot range. Yeesh. Somehow i got more out than it measured up to be. No shift flare today. Might even add more if top of full hot is reccomemded.
 
Dude. Relax. I have been changing ATF in Toyota transmissions both sealed and ones with a dipstick for about 15 years. Never a problem. If you have a dipstick just under fill it a bit then top off when hot. Fill it to the top mark HOT.
 
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