Broken Transmission Pan Bolt (Sheared). Solution?

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So I broke one of my transmission bolts while attempting to drop the pan on a family member's Ford Taurus, and I superglued the bolt back on, hoping it would stay. There was no leak initially, but eventually, the superglue didn't hold up and the bolt came loose again (sheared the bolt) and the bolt came right off when I went under to look at it. Before the bolt came off, there was a significant fluid leak, about 1/2 quart in about 1 week's time, but after i took the top half of the bolt out, even more fluid came out. And the leak became faster. But then I learned of epoxy and I epoxied the top part of the bolt (with the cap) to the sheared off threads and then the leak slowed. It's still sort of leaking, but it's not nearly as bad. SO is epoxy my answer, and do I just add a little fluid every now and then and the car would be alright? Would adding stopleak help? I was told by the mechanics who inspected it (many) that to get the sheared bolt out, they'd damage the gasket and they'd need to drop the pan, so i'd drop the pan and get a semi half fluid replacement with the possibility of adding in a new trans filter and a new gasket. Would that destroy the gasket or no? The cheapest, assuming I have the materials, which I've bought, is 80 dollars in labor. Some are asking for up to 150 for labor, but what about 80, and do they relaly need to drop the pan and would the break the gasket? IN addition, how do you drop the pan, it seems hard, but I did locate the pan and this is a side pan. ANy videos about how to do this? I searched youtube and didn't find anything. In addition, I saw some videos on removing broken bolts and they said to use a reversible drill and a screw extractor or left handed drill bits, both of which i bought, followed by speed out which is this "as seen on tv" screw extractor. Is speedout better or worth it? I heard for the left handed drill, you need to mark center, which a guy told me at home depot to use an awl for, and then use a center drill (is it also called a countersink? are they the same or different ) and then drill a small center hole, and then use your extracting drill bit, whether it's a left handed drill or a screw extractor, or speedout. is this right? what if i dont' use the center drill bit?

i tried using my drill but my drill was too large and couldn't squeeze into that compartment. would a smaller drill perhaps work or should i give it up and have the guy drop the pan for 80 dollars while i supply the fluid? thanks.
 
Originally Posted By: camryguy
So I broke one of my transmission bolts while attempting to drop the pan on a family member's Ford Taurus, and I superglued the bolt back on, hoping it would stay. There was no leak initially, but eventually, the superglue didn't hold up and the bolt came loose again (sheared the bolt) and the bolt came right off when I went under to look at it. Before the bolt came off, there was a significant fluid leak, about 1/2 quart in about 1 week's time, but after i took the top half of the bolt out, even more fluid came out. And the leak became faster. But then I learned of epoxy and I epoxied the top part of the bolt (with the cap) to the sheared off threads and then the leak slowed. It's still sort of leaking, but it's not nearly as bad. SO is epoxy my answer, and do I just add a little fluid every now and then and the car would be alright? Would adding stopleak help? I was told by the mechanics who inspected it (many) that to get the sheared bolt out, they'd damage the gasket and they'd need to drop the pan, so i'd drop the pan and get a semi half fluid replacement with the possibility of adding in a new trans filter and a new gasket. Would that destroy the gasket or no? The cheapest, assuming I have the materials, which I've bought, is 80 dollars in labor. Some are asking for up to 150 for labor, but what about 80, and do they relaly need to drop the pan and would the break the gasket? IN addition, how do you drop the pan, it seems hard, but I did locate the pan and this is a side pan. ANy videos about how to do this? I searched youtube and didn't find anything. In addition, I saw some videos on removing broken bolts and they said to use a reversible drill and a screw extractor or left handed drill bits, both of which i bought, followed by speed out which is this "as seen on tv" screw extractor. Is speedout better or worth it? I heard for the left handed drill, you need to mark center, which a guy told me at home depot to use an awl for, and then use a center drill (is it also called a countersink? are they the same or different ) and then drill a small center hole, and then use your extracting drill bit, whether it's a left handed drill or a screw extractor, or speedout. is this right? what if i dont' use the center drill bit?

i tried using my drill but my drill was too large and couldn't squeeze into that compartment. would a smaller drill perhaps work or should i give it up and have the guy drop the pan for 80 dollars while i supply the fluid? thanks.


If you don't have access to a hoist, then you'll need a right angled drill in order to get in close and on the proper angle. This will be a pain in the neck to do from my experience. If you can't get it out with the screw extractor you can just start with using a small drill bit and go larger incrementally.

Eric the car guy has an example.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c-VD1yx61bA

I did something similar to remove a broken bolt for the ABS sensor in a 1998 Toyota Sienna. slow and steady wins the race here.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: spasm3
This can't be real.


Did you read the whole post ? I looked at that wall of text and ran away as fast as I could.
 
A good extractor set with counter clockwise bits are north of $30+. Save yourself with the hassle and just pay the guy. If you buy a kit when will you ever use it again?
 
instead of a gasket, rtv the pan on. thats what I did when I broke a trans pan bolt on our minivan. never had a leak. of course, Dodge glues their pans on anyway - so rtv IS the recommended gasket for my application.
 
Sounds like you are pretty green when it comes to wrenching, and removing sheared off bolts is more difficult than wrenching(at least to me)

I think the best plan is to pay the guy $80 if he will actually get the bolt out for little bit of money

then buy your own gasket and new fluid.
 
FWIW - the typical torque for trans pan bolts is about 9 lb/ft - barely more than finger tight. Why does anyone put them on so tight. Too late for you, just a heads up for others.
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: spasm3
This can't be real.


Did you read the whole post ? I looked at that wall of text and ran away as fast as I could.


Same here. Aint nobody got time for dat!
 
Originally Posted By: camryguy
So I broke one of my transmission bolts while attempting to drop the pan on a family member's Ford Taurus, and I superglued the bolt back on, hoping it would stay. There was no leak initially, but eventually, the superglue didn't hold up and the bolt came loose again (sheared the bolt) and the bolt came right off when I went under to look at it. Before the bolt came off, there was a significant fluid leak, about 1/2 quart in about 1 week's time, but after i took the top half of the bolt out, even more fluid came out. And the leak became faster. But then I learned of epoxy and I epoxied the top part of the bolt (with the cap) to the sheared off threads and then the leak slowed. It's still sort of leaking, but it's not nearly as bad. SO is epoxy my answer, and do I just add a little fluid every now and then and the car would be alright? Would adding stopleak help? I was told by the mechanics who inspected it (many) that to get the sheared bolt out, they'd damage the gasket and they'd need to drop the pan, so i'd drop the pan and get a semi half fluid replacement with the possibility of adding in a new trans filter and a new gasket. Would that destroy the gasket or no? The cheapest, assuming I have the materials, which I've bought, is 80 dollars in labor. Some are asking for up to 150 for labor, but what about 80, and do they relaly need to drop the pan and would the break the gasket? IN addition, how do you drop the pan, it seems hard, but I did locate the pan and this is a side pan. ANy videos about how to do this? I searched youtube and didn't find anything. In addition, I saw some videos on removing broken bolts and they said to use a reversible drill and a screw extractor or left handed drill bits, both of which i bought, followed by speed out which is this "as seen on tv" screw extractor. Is speedout better or worth it? I heard for the left handed drill, you need to mark center, which a guy told me at home depot to use an awl for, and then use a center drill (is it also called a countersink? are they the same or different ) and then drill a small center hole, and then use your extracting drill bit, whether it's a left handed drill or a screw extractor, or speedout. is this right? what if i dont' use the center drill bit?

i tried using my drill but my drill was too large and couldn't squeeze into that compartment. would a smaller drill perhaps work or should i give it up and have the guy drop the pan for 80 dollars while i supply the fluid? thanks.


Yes
 
Pay the money. Imagine having another problem and having to do the job over again, or paying someone anyway? Sometimes punting is a good way to win.
 
At least engineer20 is starting his own threads now, after a temporary ban for repeatedly resurrecting 5-10 year old threads. Either he never realized his previous user ban was temporary, or he thinks he'll have more success trolling under a new name- as if no one will recognize him.

But I'm not buying in. He's still a troll. Nobody could go through life as such a sad sack, make so many errors, and still remember to breathe.
 
Originally Posted By: camryguy
So I broke one of my transmission bolts while attempting to drop the pan on a family member's Ford Taurus, .


I insist you commit sepi ku.....no other sacrifice will be sufficient
 
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