I have a fleet of fork trucks I have to keep going and I am the only one who greases them. I've been using Mobile polyrex em because this is an electric motor shop and we have tons of it. But it doesn't last very long on the surface where the forms slide to adjust the width. Does anyone have any recommendations for a grease for this location?
Grease for forklift forks
- Thread starter Diode663
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DAYLube NanoCeramic Lubricating Grease
http://www.metalformingmagazine.com/enterprise-zones/article.asp?aid=7372
http://www.daytonlamina.com/pdf/8075_DAYLube_web.pdf
http://www.metalformingmagazine.com/enterprise-zones/article.asp?aid=7372
http://www.daytonlamina.com/pdf/8075_DAYLube_web.pdf
I can get pretty much anything. I was thinking of using redline cv2 since I've head success with it in my dirtbike. But I'm not sure what type of thickener or moly content I should be looking for in this application.
Doesn't the OEM equipment service manuals give specific guidance on type of lubricant and periodicity? And if they OEM specs for lube is their own high cost version, it should be easy enough to find an equivalent generic.
The manuals are long gone. I was thinking about dry lube but I don't think it will cut it. And Toyota decided to put grease fittings on the forms so I'm guessing there's a good grease for the task. I was hoping someone with a forklift or similar sliding mechanism would have an idea. It wouldn't be such a problem but the forms are constantly being moved because no two pallets we get are the same. As far as grease goes would a high Molly content be preferred for a metal on metal sliding action such as this?
Originally Posted By: Diode663
And Toyota decided to put grease fittings on the forms so I'm guessing there's a good grease for the task.
What "Forms" are you referring to?
With that said, the exact truck model number hasn't been provided, but old(er) info is easily obtainable:
Originally Posted By: Diode663
I was thinking about dry lube but I don't think it will cut it.
This conclusion is based on what sound reasoning? A properly applied layer of dry graphite will withstand tremendous pressure (far above the loading characteristics you're dealing with here).
And Toyota decided to put grease fittings on the forms so I'm guessing there's a good grease for the task.
What "Forms" are you referring to?
With that said, the exact truck model number hasn't been provided, but old(er) info is easily obtainable:
Originally Posted By: Diode663
I was thinking about dry lube but I don't think it will cut it.
This conclusion is based on what sound reasoning? A properly applied layer of dry graphite will withstand tremendous pressure (far above the loading characteristics you're dealing with here).
Dry teflon lube is what I have seen specified for that point in other forklift applications. Often times with a "DO NOT GREASE" stencil nearby.
I've had my cat 10056 for 5 years now. I've never greased the forks. I grease the zerx every week but the forks have never had a problem sliding so I never saw a need.
I'm sorry the autocorrect on this website changes even valid words. I am talking about where the forks slide on the frame to adjust the width. My sound reasoning is that these lifts see rain and sometimes indirect spray from a steam cleaner and I don't see graphite lasting or providing corrosion resistance. I stand to be corrected on that one though. Do you have a product you recommend? I don't see any do not grease stickers but they could have been worn off.
I do find it particularly amusing that you're asking about a grease that has moly as a backstop, but have seriously negative preconceived notions about a film lubricant...
In regards to the grease fittings, they are there only as a means to prevent what would amount to the frame/fork joint becoming practically welded together. Sure, it keeps them from becoming absolutely stuck, but does hardly anything to alleviate the actual issue you're having.
Two good coats of SLIP Plate No. 1 on a clean surface would be my choice.
https://www.slipplate.com/product/slip-plate-no-1-dry-graphite-lubricant
In regards to the grease fittings, they are there only as a means to prevent what would amount to the frame/fork joint becoming practically welded together. Sure, it keeps them from becoming absolutely stuck, but does hardly anything to alleviate the actual issue you're having.
Two good coats of SLIP Plate No. 1 on a clean surface would be my choice.
https://www.slipplate.com/product/slip-plate-no-1-dry-graphite-lubricant
When I was working on forklifts for a living, this is what we used for the chains and carriage where the forks mount. It sprayed on easy and stayed VERY tacky without thick globs like grease.
http://www.zep.com/ZepSearch/default1.as...t&country=U
http://www.zep.com/ZepSearch/default1.as...t&country=U
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gathermewool
Site Donor 2023
Is this for the hydraulic left-to-right action of the fork or the sliding surface while manually (with your own hands) changing the fork sliding (unloaded?)
I can't help you with the forever, but for the latter I've never heard of lubricating that contact. We simply got out, jiggled (for the hardest sliders) or easily slid (for the better machines) the forks to the needed position.
Not a knock, just remembering. I bet some lube would have made the older rigs much easier to use.
I can't help you with the forever, but for the latter I've never heard of lubricating that contact. We simply got out, jiggled (for the hardest sliders) or easily slid (for the better machines) the forks to the needed position.
Not a knock, just remembering. I bet some lube would have made the older rigs much easier to use.
I use a dry lubricant designed for RV slides. I'll check what it is tomorrow. My largest lift lives outdoors, and it has no corrosion issues on its side-shift surfaces.
We had this issue at work on one of our models that lifts up to 5000 lb. The old fix was to use a standard automotive MP grease on the sliders but that attracts sand/grit. They came up with the idea of spraying moly dry film every 50 hours of operation. If you go beyond 50 hours without relubing, it can start to chatter or seize up. I asked if anyone used a teflon dry film but no one understood what I was talking about. We have a heavier duty model that lifts 10,000 lb and it uses a teflon dry film. Is there any reason why moly would be better/worse than teflon in this application? Again a standard grease is not a solution due to it attracting sand/grit.
Originally Posted by metroplex
We had this issue at work on one of our models that lifts up to 5000 lb. The old fix was to use a standard automotive MP grease on the sliders but that attracts sand/grit. They came up with the idea of spraying moly dry film every 50 hours of operation. If you go beyond 50 hours without relubing, it can start to chatter or seize up. I asked if anyone used a teflon dry film but no one understood what I was talking about. We have a heavier duty model that lifts 10,000 lb and it uses a teflon dry film. Is there any reason why moly would be better/worse than teflon in this application? Again a standard grease is not a solution due to it attracting sand/grit.
Grease or oil doesn't attract dirt etc . Grease oil oil will let dirt stick on it.
We had this issue at work on one of our models that lifts up to 5000 lb. The old fix was to use a standard automotive MP grease on the sliders but that attracts sand/grit. They came up with the idea of spraying moly dry film every 50 hours of operation. If you go beyond 50 hours without relubing, it can start to chatter or seize up. I asked if anyone used a teflon dry film but no one understood what I was talking about. We have a heavier duty model that lifts 10,000 lb and it uses a teflon dry film. Is there any reason why moly would be better/worse than teflon in this application? Again a standard grease is not a solution due to it attracting sand/grit.
Grease or oil doesn't attract dirt etc . Grease oil oil will let dirt stick on it.
Originally Posted by CT8
Originally Posted by metroplex
We had this issue at work on one of our models that lifts up to 5000 lb. The old fix was to use a standard automotive MP grease on the sliders but that attracts sand/grit. They came up with the idea of spraying moly dry film every 50 hours of operation. If you go beyond 50 hours without relubing, it can start to chatter or seize up. I asked if anyone used a teflon dry film but no one understood what I was talking about. We have a heavier duty model that lifts 10,000 lb and it uses a teflon dry film. Is there any reason why moly would be better/worse than teflon in this application? Again a standard grease is not a solution due to it attracting sand/grit.
Grease or oil doesn't attract dirt etc . Grease oil oil will let dirt stick on it.
So moly or teflon dry film? Which would last longer?
Originally Posted by metroplex
We had this issue at work on one of our models that lifts up to 5000 lb. The old fix was to use a standard automotive MP grease on the sliders but that attracts sand/grit. They came up with the idea of spraying moly dry film every 50 hours of operation. If you go beyond 50 hours without relubing, it can start to chatter or seize up. I asked if anyone used a teflon dry film but no one understood what I was talking about. We have a heavier duty model that lifts 10,000 lb and it uses a teflon dry film. Is there any reason why moly would be better/worse than teflon in this application? Again a standard grease is not a solution due to it attracting sand/grit.
Grease or oil doesn't attract dirt etc . Grease oil oil will let dirt stick on it.
So moly or teflon dry film? Which would last longer?
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