Hey everyone, I just got my latest oil report back from Blackstone Labs. This time I used the Mazda brand 0w20 with Moly in my 2014 Mazda3. Previously I was using Mobil1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0w20 (the left column on the report. While the Mobil was used over winter and the Mazda was used during the summer, it looks to my untrained eye that the Mazda oil and Mazda filter are superior to the Mobil and Fram filter for my car. I am currently running the Mazda oil for the winter and will do another report in the spring to get a direct winter comparison between the oils.
Mazda 0w20 Full Synthetic with Moly
- Thread starter adamgirard
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I think the wear metals are still coming down from break in.
I would really like to see this report without the fuel dilution.
How is this car typically driven?
Even though the flash point is a bit low, the wear metals aren't terrible.
I would really like to see this report without the fuel dilution.
How is this car typically driven?
Even though the flash point is a bit low, the wear metals aren't terrible.
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I don't see anything that says one filter is better than another, but there may be something to all that Moly in Mazda oil.
You can't compare two different oils and draw a conclusion with such little data. Maybe by the time your car is ready for the scrapyard could you have maybe enough data to start to draw a conclusion but I doubt it. It's not the purpose of a UOA.
OVERKILL
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That looks like metals trending down due to break-in as noted. You also had some serious fuel dilution that impacted the flash point on the previous run and resulted in viscosity loss.
That's what the UOA is telling you.
That's what the UOA is telling you.
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Originally Posted By: Brybo86
I think the wear metals are still coming down from break in.
I would really like to see this report without the fuel dilution.
How is this car typically driven?
Even though the flash point is a bit low, the wear metals aren't terrible.
The car is driven daily on a very short work commute. It's about 3 miles there and 3 miles back. Otherwise a lot of around town driving and once a week it gets a 100 mile round trip pure highway drive. About 6 weeks before the oil sample I drove it from NY to GA and back straight through, ~15 hours each way.
I think the wear metals are still coming down from break in.
I would really like to see this report without the fuel dilution.
How is this car typically driven?
Even though the flash point is a bit low, the wear metals aren't terrible.
The car is driven daily on a very short work commute. It's about 3 miles there and 3 miles back. Otherwise a lot of around town driving and once a week it gets a 100 mile round trip pure highway drive. About 6 weeks before the oil sample I drove it from NY to GA and back straight through, ~15 hours each way.
Originally Posted By: BikeWhisperer
I don't see anything that says one filter is better than another, but there may be something to all that Moly in Mazda oil.
I agree with you, on my previous report Blackstone said the Fram filter I used did a great job, so I don't think the filter made a big difference, but I wouldn't say the Mazda filter was any worse than the Fram either.
I don't see anything that says one filter is better than another, but there may be something to all that Moly in Mazda oil.
I agree with you, on my previous report Blackstone said the Fram filter I used did a great job, so I don't think the filter made a big difference, but I wouldn't say the Mazda filter was any worse than the Fram either.
Originally Posted By: Nate1979
You can't compare two different oils and draw a conclusion with such little data. Maybe by the time your car is ready for the scrapyard could you have maybe enough data to start to draw a conclusion but I doubt it. It's not the purpose of a UOA.
True. I do plan on continuing these analyses though in an attempt to get enough data, trying to minimize variables whether its oil brand, season, or filter, etc.
You can't compare two different oils and draw a conclusion with such little data. Maybe by the time your car is ready for the scrapyard could you have maybe enough data to start to draw a conclusion but I doubt it. It's not the purpose of a UOA.
True. I do plan on continuing these analyses though in an attempt to get enough data, trying to minimize variables whether its oil brand, season, or filter, etc.
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
That looks like metals trending down due to break-in as noted. You also had some serious fuel dilution that impacted the flash point on the previous run and resulted in viscosity loss.
That's what the UOA is telling you.
I'm very happy about both of those issues improve, obviously. I do wonder, howver, if the fuel dilution was caused by idling the car during winter. I'm interested to see if the same thing happens this winter.
That looks like metals trending down due to break-in as noted. You also had some serious fuel dilution that impacted the flash point on the previous run and resulted in viscosity loss.
That's what the UOA is telling you.
I'm very happy about both of those issues improve, obviously. I do wonder, howver, if the fuel dilution was caused by idling the car during winter. I'm interested to see if the same thing happens this winter.
Originally Posted By: adamgirard
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
That looks like metals trending down due to break-in as noted. You also had some serious fuel dilution that impacted the flash point on the previous run and resulted in viscosity loss.
That's what the UOA is telling you.
I'm very happy about both of those issues improve, obviously. I do wonder, howver, if the fuel dilution was caused by idling the car during winter. I'm interested to see if the same thing happens this winter.
This And your short 3 mile drive each way is the source of your fuel dilution.
Idling does introduce fuel into the oil,especially on cold starts when the piston is less tight in the bore.
Your 100 mile trip should evaporate most of it though unless your pcv isn't clean or functional.
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
That looks like metals trending down due to break-in as noted. You also had some serious fuel dilution that impacted the flash point on the previous run and resulted in viscosity loss.
That's what the UOA is telling you.
I'm very happy about both of those issues improve, obviously. I do wonder, howver, if the fuel dilution was caused by idling the car during winter. I'm interested to see if the same thing happens this winter.
This And your short 3 mile drive each way is the source of your fuel dilution.
Idling does introduce fuel into the oil,especially on cold starts when the piston is less tight in the bore.
Your 100 mile trip should evaporate most of it though unless your pcv isn't clean or functional.
Originally Posted By: adamgirard
Originally Posted By: BikeWhisperer
I don't see anything that says one filter is better than another, but there may be something to all that Moly in Mazda oil.
I agree with you, on my previous report Blackstone said the Fram filter I used did a great job, so I don't think the filter made a big difference, but I wouldn't say the Mazda filter was any worse than the Fram either.
Insolubles were double using the Mazda oil filter. Thats not better or as good as the Fram.
Originally Posted By: BikeWhisperer
I don't see anything that says one filter is better than another, but there may be something to all that Moly in Mazda oil.
I agree with you, on my previous report Blackstone said the Fram filter I used did a great job, so I don't think the filter made a big difference, but I wouldn't say the Mazda filter was any worse than the Fram either.
Insolubles were double using the Mazda oil filter. Thats not better or as good as the Fram.
Fair point, I definitely missed that. Interesting. I guess I'll have to try the Fram filter with the Mazda oil next time.
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