Purolator p1, napa synth, or fram UG for winter?

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Im debating which oil filter too use for winter! Which would have the best cold flow. I live in southwest ct, and past few years, temperatures, january, february were 22 degrees daytime, 3 degrees night. and thats not including wind chill factor.
IM planning on using supertech synthetic, 10w30. its for a 98 corolla. I do know these filters have the red/orange gasket top of filter, but for temps near or approaching the minus, which filters would be best? Ive read...the cellulose filters are not desired for winter use. I plan on running this at least till may/june, and 7,000 miles at most.
See what the pros say here:)
the reason im using 10w30, is i like it. And read the 10w30 actualy has a pur point of something like 40 degeees, compared too the 5w30 42/43 degrees.
help me select!
Ik inda always wanted too try a purolator synthetic..but last on my list.
 
You do realize that parts of the engine oil flow paths have way more restriction than any oil filter, i know crazy huh, Toyota muat be crazy to do that. Lol
 
Use a full synthetic media if you want best flow (ie, least delta-p across the filter). I wouldn't use a PureOne because the media is brittle and could tear from high delta-p caused by thick cold oil. The Purolator synthetic would be OK though, and has better efficiency than the NAPA synthetic (Platinum, which is the same as the WIX XP). Fram Ultra is a good choice too.
 
If you're worried about cold flow, use a 0W-30 rather than 10W-30. The filter is really not going to make much difference.
 
Originally Posted By: zach1900
"Thick,cold oil" lol. Antarctica?


10W-30 at zero degrees is pretty thick. Put a few ounces in the freezer for 3 hours, then try pouring it.
 
go with a 5w-30 or 0w-30 if you are worried about that. As far as the filter, Purolator synthetic, Napa platinum, and fram ultra would all be fine. It's like saying Mercedes, bmw, or audi. Comes down to preference.
 
Originally Posted By: KD0AXS
If you're worried about cold flow, use a 0W-30 rather than 10W-30. The filter is really not going to make much difference.


+1 totally agree. For winter use in your part of the US, a 0w20 or 0w30 would be more appropiate for easier starting on cold winter mornings.

Filter: Fram Tough Guard or Puro Synthetic.

Save the 10w30 for late spring and summer use.
 
but its synthetic, 10w30. last i read here, the supertech 10w30synthetic had a minus 49 pour point, better than the 5w30... i know its a fake synthetic, meaning group III? or mix with group IV..butthe pour point , minus 49 F, ide imagine regardless it would flow very good, not as thick as others suggest. Its synthetic.
Ide imagine, a synthetic media filter, would performn flow better, than a cellulose mix, like pureone or tough guard...
 
You need to be looking at CCS and MRV if you are concerned about cold cranking. Pour points are not much help, although they can sometimes give you a hint about the composition of the base oil.

A 5w30 will make far more improvement than an oil filter. The important thing in an oil filter for winter starts IMO is a silicone ADBV.

A 10w30 must perform like a 10w30 or it can't be labeled as such. If a given 10w30 met the 5w30 cold crank standards it has to be labeled a 5w30. You will not find a 10w30 that outperforms a 5w30 at cold starting. It simply can't and still be labeled a 10w30. Yes you will find variations within the grade (for example 10w30's that have better cold start properties than other 10w30's, or some that are thicker than others at operating temp but still within the 30 grade range).

Don't take that wrong I happen to be a fan of 10w30 myself it has worked for me for decades in anything I put it in. But you seem to be under the impression you have found a 10w30 that out performs a 5w30 in cold starting.

All that said 10w30 is generally considered to be adequate for cold starts all the way down to zero and wind chill has nothing to do with your car.

For a filter I'd suggest a Motorcraft "S" series or a Fram Tough Guard both of which have given me stellar cold start performance.
 
Does paper become more brittle and harden up more than plastic in cold weather? So oil can't flow through the contracted holes? I hadn't noticed paper becoming much harder to fold in winter when I fly paper airplanes. As often, joking.
 
At the temps you are talking about, it makes no difference what you use.

10w30 is fine, use whatever filter makes you feel good, nothing you do outside of "drastically stupid" will matter much.
 
At the temperatures you're looking at it won't much matter what you decide to use.
If I were concerned about cold temperatures, I'd be more interested in something better suited to cold than a 10W-30, although at the lows that you've written of it won't make all that much difference.
I guess that I don't quite grasp the concept of carefully selecting an oil filter while using a bottom dollar oil in a grade that won't be optimal for cold weather starts.
Even ST 5W-30 would be a better choice for the same coin.
Incidentally, pour point is almost meaningless and is not a valid measure of cold weather starting performance.
 
I wouldn't sweat the filter choice on the application discussed.

Frankly, I'd buy the current O'Reilly Valvoline Maxlife 5W-30 special with the $2 Wix upgrade.

If you don't mind waiting for the rebate, the Valvoline Synpower + Wix deal there at O'Reilly is killer. The synthetic might give you the better cold weather flowability you are seeking.

Of course you could get the same thing with no wait with NAPA Synthetic and a NAPA Gold right now.
 
According to published articles, Fram extended guards disintegrate, Purolator tears inside, and Wix bursts open. Avoid those, a lot of people say it. Try a TRD since it is for a Toyota, or the Fram Ultra.
 
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