6.7L Cummins & Bypass Oil Filter change?

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I have a 2008 Ram 2500 6.7L diesel that I'm still running dino 15W40 oil in. I have gotten Blackstone analysis done on it since I bought it used with 42K on it (every 6 to 7K). My mileage is now 103K. My last UAO was extended to 10K with good results.

After my last UAO I installed a oil bypass system and I want to push my OCI's out to 20K or better. Now for my question: At what mileage do I change my OEM filter, which is
still in place on the truck and how often do I change my EaBP100 bypass filter? I plan on doing a UAO at 12K without changing the oil unless my analysis comes back showing I have a problem.
 
Yes, I'll get the TBN. My last TBN @10K was 4.1.

My filter goes down to 2 micron.

I currently have Delo 400 LE 15W40 in my 6.7L
 
Originally Posted By: sikesix
Yes, I'll get the TBN. My last TBN @10K was 4.1.

My filter goes down to 2 micron.

I currently have Delo 400 LE 15W40 in my 6.7L


The Delo 400 LE will be just fine. I would send a sample off to start a trend baseline soon after the bypass is installed. Then every 10k until you dial it in to where you are comfortable. Does Blackstone do particle counts on the analysis you get? I think you would get much better value using wearcheck mobII analysis for extended oci's using bypass.
 
OCI extensions are predicated on condemnation points, so for the oil, I'd say pick some reasonable levels (see the CA article I linked several months back for suggested levels).

As for the filters, there are a few different methods for each.

For the bypass, some folks just use the "hot touch" method. In theory, as long as the bypass filter is hot or very warm to the touch (after the engine is fully warmed) that means the filter is still passing fluid, and therefore not blinded off. The BP filters don't have a bypass valve in them, so when they do blind off, they won't pass warm oil. Hence, the "hot touch" method ...

As for the FF filter, that's different. You cannot use that hot-touch method, due to the bypass valve function. So as a generalization, most accept that a long OEM OCI, even up to 2x the OEM OCI, can be used. If your 6.7L OEM OCI is 7.5k miles, your FF filter should be good for 15k miles. It likely might go further, but it's a bit hard to predict.

You can opt for sample ports above/below the filter media, and test for PCs, but that get's to be really expensive.

In fact, a set up like this is hard to make pay off, unless you really stretch out the lube.

And using dino lubes with bypass is a GREAT idea! The bypass filters help keep the oil in a clean state for a longer period, and therefore the "normal" limit of a dino fluid is pushed WAY out. And that makes the ROI for syn's also have to move further out.


Hope that helps.
 
Thanks for all the responses. Special thanks to dnewton3.

I'm currently at 8K on this oil. So at 12K I'll take a sample for Blackstone and then change my OEM filter. I'm taking the sample before the filter change due to filling the new filter with fresh oil.

I'll post my UAO and then look for advice on what to do next. I will also be doing the "hot-to-the-touch" test on my EaBP100 filter that dnewton3 recommended.

Now to Yucca's question about particle count on a Blackstone UAO. I have of course the metal readings (Iron was at 17) and I have an Insolubles % of .4 which is suppose to be less than .8 Is that what your asking about? If not, tell me more about the wearcheck Mobile analysis and what it costs.

Thanks again.
 
I've now run my OCI's out to 20K twice. Both with 15W40 dino oils. The first with Delo the second with John Deere Plus 50II. I changed out the OEM filter at 20K and the by-pass filter at 40K. My by-pass filter was still working (hot to the touch. I also cut open both of my latest filters (Mobil 1 & Amsoil) and the elements looked good. I have pictures.



OIL JD+50II JD+50II DeloLE DeloLE
MILES IN USE 20k 12k 20K 12K
MILES 136,677 128,306 116,238 108,004
SAMPLE TAKEN 08/06/15 11/03/14 12/16/13 7/06/13

ALUMINUM 3 3 4 5
CHROMIUM 2 1 1 1
IRON 21 16 17 14
COPPER 3 2 3 2
LEAD 8 2 1 0
TIN 1 0 0 0
MOLYBDENUM 303 249 188 195
NICKEL 0 0 0 0
MANGANESE 0 0 0 0
SILVER 1 0 1 1
TITANIUM 0 0 0 0
POTASSIUM 7 6 3 3
BORON 212 228 244 261
SILICON 7 7 6 7
SODIUM 4 3 3 5
CALCIUM 2030 1815 2591 2744
MAGNESIUM 987 749 273 275
PHOSPHORUS 1154 1046 1261 1336
ZINC 1558 1247 1544 1619
BARIUM 0 0 0 0

INSOLUBLES 0.3 0.1 0.2 0.3
WATER 0 0 0 0
FLASHPOINT ºF 420 410 435 430
SUS VIS 210ºF 74.0 72.3 73.0 73.4
cSt VIS@100C 14.01 13.57 13.73 13.85
Fuel% TBN 3.8 5.2 3.1 4.9
 
Originally Posted By: sikesix
I've now run my OCI's out to 20K twice. Both with 15W40 dino oils. The first with Delo the second with John Deere Plus 50II. I changed out the OEM filter at 20K and the by-pass filter at 40K. My by-pass filter was still working (hot to the touch. I also cut open both of my latest filters (Mobil 1 & Amsoil) and the elements looked good. I have pictures.



OIL JD+50II JD+50II DeloLE DeloLE
MILES IN USE 20k 12k 20K 12K
MILES 136,677 128,306 116,238 108,004
SAMPLE TAKEN 08/06/15 11/03/14 12/16/13 7/06/13

ALUMINUM 3 3 4 5
CHROMIUM 2 1 1 1
IRON 21 16 17 14
COPPER 3 2 3 2
LEAD 8 2 1 0
TIN 1 0 0 0
MOLYBDENUM 303 249 188 195
NICKEL 0 0 0 0
MANGANESE 0 0 0 0
SILVER 1 0 1 1
TITANIUM 0 0 0 0
POTASSIUM 7 6 3 3
BORON 212 228 244 261
SILICON 7 7 6 7
SODIUM 4 3 3 5
CALCIUM 2030 1815 2591 2744
MAGNESIUM 987 749 273 275
PHOSPHORUS 1154 1046 1261 1336
ZINC 1558 1247 1544 1619
BARIUM 0 0 0 0

INSOLUBLES 0.3 0.1 0.2 0.3
WATER 0 0 0 0
FLASHPOINT ºF 420 410 435 430
SUS VIS 210ºF 74.0 72.3 73.0 73.4
cSt VIS@100C 14.01 13.57 13.73 13.85
Fuel% TBN 3.8 5.2 3.1 4.9



Hi, thanks for posting these results. Can you post your pictures of the EaBp 100 cut open please. Thanks Harling
 
I'd be glad to attach a picture of the Amsoil filter after 40K but I can't locate the icon for doing so!
 
Originally Posted By: sikesix
I'd be glad to attach a picture of the Amsoil filter after 40K but I can't locate the icon for doing so!


Do you have a photobuckets account? That's about the easiest way of posting pictures that I could find. Easy to set up as well.:)

Dual Gard:)

 
I would put a guard over those filters. You don't want a big rock to put a pinhole leak in them from the tires.
 
Pleated bypass filter? No more dense media, stack plates, compressed paper, TP or PT rolls.... So sad.

I wish that Amsoil would offer the "BE" filters again. Let the consumer decide which is better.

No reason not to go 25k on the oil and 50k on the Amsoil, as long as there was flow thru that bypass element.

Another option is to use a different full flow in place of the Mobil1:
Fleetguard LF9028

Donaldson ELF7349

microGreen for Cummins
 
I use the LF9028 FG Stratapore Venturi on the '06 5.9 Cummins in my sig-but be aware that it (& the Donaldson listed above) are NOT recommended for a Dodge application. So if you have a warranty issue, you may be SOL! I actually considered a bypass system-but I drive enough gravel roads, all it takes is one unlucky rock shot to an oil hose...
 
Last edited:
The Donaldson listed above is for dodge and Cummins application. The ELF7349 is now a DBL7349 just in synthetic.
 
OP has a bypass installation and extended oil change interval. I don't think warranty is an issue at this point
 
You're right, I missed the 103K on his first post. I haven't driven mine enough to send in a UOA using the Venturi filter yet, but the oil does look somewhat less black. I would try to shield the hoses or use braided steel lines, though, myself, I'm just too paranoid to risk (in his case) a $10 GRAND engine to save a few bucks on oil.
 
Much like yourself, I have '06 5.9 as well. Low mileage & use the best Fleetguard filter on it. I have been aware of the Venturi Combo Filter for a while now but have heard of no feedback on it's Ram application. I was also aware that it's use in our p/u trucks was supported by Cummins (I think). But I like bypass filtration & hate soot. Would love to give it a whirl...

John.

Originally Posted By: bullwinkle
You're right, I missed the 103K on his first post. I haven't driven mine enough to send in a UOA using the Venturi filter yet, but the oil does look somewhat less black. I would try to shield the hoses or use braided steel lines, though, myself, I'm just too paranoid to risk (in his case) a $10 GRAND engine to save a few bucks on oil.
 
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