Help Locating GL-4 Tranny Gear Lube

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Originally Posted By: stchman


According to the Amsoil website, Amsoil does not have the fluid for that particular transmission.

The OP should go to the dealer and buy their fluid.


Good CATCH!!

It's 75W-80. NOT 75W-90.
 
I contacted Amsoil and they told me that their MTG is not compatible for my 6 speed manual and would not warranty it if I used it. I was told by Amsoil to go get the Nissan OEM fluid.
 
Originally Posted By: s1mp13m4n
I contacted Amsoil and they told me that their MTG is not compatible for my 6 speed manual and would not warranty it if I used it. I was told by Amsoil to go get the Nissan OEM fluid.


Of course not, the Amsoil MTG is too thick.

Then they should have recommended their MTF, a 75W80/5W30.

What the OP needs is a 75W80/5W30, 9.0 cSt to 10.5 cSt GL-4 dedicated MTF as per the list above.
 
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6-speed gets the 75w80...
5-speed gets the older 75w85

I wonder if Renault is using it to free up mousepower, MPG, or deal with pathetic shift issues.

Grade wasn't mentioned by OP.

Plenty of 75w80 GL4's on Amazon/EBay. Redline MTL.

Any VOA on the new Nissan fluid? Mazda also has a GL4 75w80.

"Genuine NISSAN gear oil (XT4447M+) 75W-80, Genuine NISSAN gear oil (ETL8997B) 75W-80, or equivalent. If genuine NISSAN gear oil is not available, API GL-4, Viscosity SAE 75W-80 may be used as a temporary replacement. However use Genuine NISSAN gear oil as soon as it is possible.

http://www.ravenol.de/en/products/usage/d/Product/show/p/ravenol-mtf-2-sae-75w-80.html

And some more info for research:
Genuine NISSAN gear Oil (Chevron Texaco ETL 8997B) 75W-80, Genuine NISSAN gear oil (ELF XT4447M+) 75W80
 
The Nissan owners manual says the following:

Manual Transmission Fluid (MTF) HQ Multi 75W-85 GL-4

So 75W-85 is what Nissan says to put in it
 
Best to verify TSBs for that 6-speed. I am pretty sure that Renault loves their GL4+ 75w80 mild EP fluid optimized for MT usage.

Verify the fluid required by visiting dealer with VIN#.
Nissan had some spec issues in the owners manual and FSM.
 
Originally Posted By: Greasymechtech
Best to verify TSBs for that 6-speed. I am pretty sure that Renault loves their GL4+ 75w80 mild EP fluid optimized for MT usage.

Verify the fluid required by visiting dealer with VIN#.
Nissan had some spec issues in the owners manual and FSM.


Hang on a second.
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If I can not trust the owners manual in .pdf form from the Nissan website, then where do I get proper info for my car? I have been following it for service such as OCI, air/cabin air filter change every 15K miles, etc. The manual says that the tranny fluid should be changed at 30K miles. I have the 6 speed and the manual does not talk about 5 speed/6 speed. It just specifies manual transmission. I do not have the auto or the CVT.
smile.gif
In other parts of the world this car is known as the Nissan Tiida. Who knows where the various bits and parts are coming from. LOL
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I do know that my car was made in Mexico based on the VIN.
 
Exactly. Pick the phone up and verify with your local dealer.
Fluid capacities and specs can be incorrect in a manual.

If you are happy with the GL4 75w85 spec from that PDF manual, then use Redline MT85, or the Nissan/Kia/Hyundai/Mitsu.... fluid. Pretty simple.
 
Originally Posted By: s1mp13m4n
The Nissan owners manual says the following:

Manual Transmission Fluid (MTF) HQ Multi 75W-85 GL-4

So 75W-85 is what Nissan says to put in it


You do realize that SAE 75W85 gear lubes can span anywhere from 9.0 cSt to 12.5 cSt fluids, hence my list above.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/viscosity-charts/

Unless your transmission is loosey-goosey, or you drive in the Sahara, there is no need for a 12.0 cSt MTF.
 
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The 6 speed gearbox in our car is just fine. I simply want to keep the maintainence up on my car. I have never owned a new car before. I want to prevent problems rather than fix them as I have in the past with owning 150000 mile or more vehicles. With my 1994 Ford Escort we had, we ended up chasing problems around trying to fix neglect from previous owners. I want to avoid that with this car. That is why I want to make sure I get the right fluid for this 6 speed gearbox and change it like I am sapose to. The Nissan Versa forums say little about this car and no one seems to know what the proper fluid nor drain plug socket size is. I finally figured out the fill plug (white plastic wing nut on the back side of the transmission) and the drain plug (4 sides square female 8mm). I read about stories of people having syncro problems from using the wrong fluid or changing it at 90000 miles rather than 30000 miles. Sorry to keep going on about my car, but I want to protect it because I have never owned a new car before.
 
I think you're right on track with the 30k OCI's.

You might try the AMSOIL MTF or the Redline 75W80 during the winter and see how it shifts.

I know from both owning Nissans and from formulating MTFs for the Nissans that they seem to prefer 10 cSt fluids, of which the AMSOIL MTF or the Redline 75W80 are those.
 
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Originally Posted By: kmrcstintn
Originally Posted By: JTK
I don't recall how long GL-5 has been around, but it seems odd a 2012 would recommend GL-4.


my guess for the GL-4 spec...

GL-4 certification addresses corrosion of brass and copper components thru a specified mandatory test while GL-5 testing does not mandate that particular test...can't tell ya why


The difference is the amount of EP extreme pressure phosphorus additive added for the latest hypoid differentials. The other is the yellow metal corrosiveness. ASTM D130.
You don't need EP additives of GL5 magnitude in a gearbox, so in 2012 for them to indicate GL4 in the transmission indicates, to me, there is yellow metal in the gearbox.

Just because the GL5 rating does not mandate passing the ASTM D130 with a 1b or better rating does not mean many of the GL5 oils are not copper friendly. That said, Redline MT-90 (GL4) 75w/90 has the best rating around for copper friendliness. Amsoil MT & Gear MTG 75w/90 (GL4)and Amsoil M/T fluid MTG 5w/30(no gl) rate 1b & 1a, both excellent for yellow. All these 3 are pricey. Chevron Delo Trans Fluid ESI (no gl) 50w is rated 2a, which is one increment away from 1b, and is still considered yellow metal friendly. It is likely much cheaper.
 
I get GL-4 (Sta Lube)gear oil at NAPA. Don't let your savings go towards freight charges on some fancy brand which is no better.
 
Quote:
Just an additional comment:

We should emphasize again that the GL-4 rating for gear lubes is primarily a gear and bearing protection rating for systems that are not as heavily loaded as those found in hypoid differentials or Heavy Duty truck transmissions.

It should NOT be assumed than ANY gear lube with the GL-4 rating is suitable for Manual Transmissons.

Dedicated or application specific MTL's not only have the necessary Anti-Wear chemistry to attain a GL-4 rating, but also have the correct viscosity and friction modification for synchronized transmissions.

Bottom line is, there is more to a Dedicated or application specific MTL than just a GL-4 rating.


http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/1231182/4


In addition, there are major differences between hypoid fluids of the same SAE grade rating and those for Manual Transmissions:

1. Hypoid and Industrial GL-4 and GL-5 gear lubes have a higher viscosity (are thicker) than Manual Transmission Fluids making shifting more difficult on cold mornings,

2. Non-dedicated GL-4's such as StaLube do not have the Friction Modification for synchronizer assemblies.

3. In MTF's, we use specific levels of AW additives, rather than EP additives, because the loads (forces) on the gear teeth and the shaft bearings are less than those in the differential drive pinion and ring gear and associated bearings.
 
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Originally Posted By: Lubener
I get GL-4 (Sta Lube)gear oil at NAPA. Don't let your savings go towards freight charges on some fancy brand which is no better.


Any dedicated GL-4 MTFs will be superior to an off-the-shelf general use GL-4 like StaLube.
 
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Originally Posted By: MolaKule
Originally Posted By: Lubener
I get GL-4 (Sta Lube)gear oil at NAPA. Don't let your savings go towards freight charges on some fancy brand which is no better.


Any dedicated GL-4 MTFs will be superior to an off-the-shelf general use GL-4 like StaLube.


Do you have facts on this or are you just blowing smoke.
 
Originally Posted By: Lubener
Originally Posted By: MolaKule
Originally Posted By: Lubener
I get GL-4 (Sta Lube)gear oil at NAPA. Don't let your savings go towards freight charges on some fancy brand which is no better.


Any dedicated GL-4 MTFs will be superior to an off-the-shelf general use GL-4 like StaLube.


Do you have facts on this or are you just blowing smoke.


If you would dare to read the facts, study them and understand them, then you wouldn't be saying silly stuff like this.

Reread and study the following:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...sio#Post1231182

and in case you missed the link:

Quote:
Used by Permission of the Author for BITOG

Protection-wise, most Manual Transmisson Lubes are rated with an API protection rating of GL-4 because of the type of gearing used as will be explained later.

I think manual (or Stickshift or Standard) transmissions are more fun to drive than automatic transmissions. Manual transmissions require more driver interaction than do automatic transmissions. You can’t talk on the cellphone, or eat, or text when you have to shift gears.

In this paper we examine the internal mechanisms of the manual transmission and the effects of the lubricant’s viscosity and additives. We are discussing light truck and passenger vehicle manual transmissions only. We will not discuss OTR or heavy-duty transmissions which use a different type of lubricant.

A modern gearbox is of the constant mesh type, in which all gears are always in mesh. The exception is the reverse idler gear which will be explained later. This constant mesh and the cut of the gears insure a rather quiet transmission. In any one gear, only one of these meshed pairs of gears is locked to the shaft on which it is mounted. The others are being allowed to rotate freely; thus greatly reducing the skill required to shift gears. Most modern cars are fitted with a synchronized gear box, although it is entirely possible to construct a constant mesh gearbox without synchromesh, as found in motorcycles for example.

Some manual transmissions are integrated with differentials to form a “Transaxle.” The differentials here are usually NOT the hypoid types found in larger vehicles, but are of the spider gear configuration.

Going from the top of the transmission case downward, we have the shifter mound which contains the shift lever and linkages. The shifter will have a seal or boot at the top with an additional gasket to keep the lubricant from flowing out when slung by the gearing. Below that are two shafts, one the input shaft and the other being the output shaft. The input shaft is splined to the clutch for power connect or disconnect. The output shaft goes to a universal joint, then to the driveshaft (a hollow “torque” tube), and the driveshaft connects to the differential via another universal joint.

An illustration of a basic manual transmission is found here, so exercise the shifting as we discuss the mechanisms (not a perfect illustration but makes the point):

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/transmission4.htm

Shifter Assembly: The gears resting on the top shaft, the input shaft, are locked onto that shaft and rotate at the same rpm as the engine. The bottom output shaft has synchronizers “splined” to this shaft, so they can move around as the gear ratio is changed. The gears on the output (bottom) shaft are allowed to rotate freely on the output shaft or on small roller or “needle” bearings, depending on the horsepower transmitted and the design. The output shaft will rotate at various rpms depending on gear selection. In first gear, for example, you want low output shaft rpm and high torque.

The shifter moves the associated linkage which connects to the shifter forks. The linkages position the shifter forks, and effectively “programs” the shifter forks in order to select the required gear ratio. I.E., for each shift lever position, the shifter forks are moved around to drive the splined synchronizers on the output shaft. The shifter forks have a bore so they can slide on the guide rods. There is a specified clearance between the shifter forks’ bore and the shifter fork guide rods. Lubricant effects: Too high a viscosity lubricant and the shifting will be hard and sluggish. More force will be required to go from one gear to another. Too thin an oil and the forks will wear, the clearances will increase, and the shifting will become sloppy and uncertain. The correct mix of base oil viscosities is needed here to insure good cold weather and hot weather shifting. Synthetics excel here because of their high viscosity index.

Synchronizer: The locking mechanism for any individual gear consists of a collar on the shaft which is able to slide sideways so that teeth or “dogs” on its inner surface bridge two circular rings with teeth on their outer circumference; one attached to the gear, one to the shaft. (One collar typically serves for two gears; sliding in one direction selects one transmission speed, in the other direction selects the other) In our illustration from above, the bottom or output shaft has splines that mate with the synchronizer “collar.” The synchronizer collar moves transversely on the splines, positioned by the shifter fork. When the rings are bridged by the collar, that particular gear is rotationally locked to the shaft and determines the output speed of the transmission. In a synchromesh gearbox, to correctly match the speed of the gear to that of the shaft as the gear is engaged, the collar initially applies a force to a cone-shaped brass clutch which is attached to the gear, which brings the speeds to match prior to the collar locking into place. The collar is prevented from bridging the locking rings when the speeds are mismatched by synchro rings also called blocker rings. Notice, before locking and speed synchronization, a lot of shearing takes place at the interfaces and for the reasons given above. Most synchronizer materials are of brass, but newer synchronizers can be made of strengthened graphite composites. Lubricant effects: A special Friction Modifier (FM) additive is incorporated into the base oil to allow just the right amount of friction before engagement. I.E., the FM gives rise to a specific coefficient of friction (COF) to allow engagement without “crunching.” Automatic Transmission Fluids (ATF) DO NOT have these specialized FM’s. Note, the specialized FM used in manual transmissions is NOT the same FM used in Limited Slip Differentials, nor is it the same FM used in Automatic Transmissions, nor is it the same FM used in engine oils. It is important to understand that there are different FM chemistries for different automotive applications!

Bearings: Lubricated bearings are used to reduce friction between rotating parts. The older Munice transmissions, for example, used brass or sintered brass sleeve bearings or bushings. Most modern transmission bearings today, as can be seen by the links given below, are of two main types 1) Roller or needle bearings, and 2) ball bearings. Ball bearings or tapered roller bearings are usually used at the shaft ends to resist radial and transverse loads. Smaller roller or pin bearings are used inside the driven gears that reside on the output shaft. Lubricant effects: Depending on the horsepower transmitted and the size of the bearings, the lubricant’s kinematic viscosities range from 7.5 cSt (ATF-range) to 14.5 cSt (equivalent to a light 75W90 gear lube) given at 100C. The anti-wear/Extreme pressure additives keep wear in check as they rotate in their races. Anti-corrosion additives keep the anti-wear/Extreme Pressure additives from attacking the synchronizers, and anti-rust additives keep any moisture from creating rust on the steel components. For lower horsepower drive trains, the lubricant must be thin enough to penetrate the cages in the pin/roller bearing areas. For higher horsepower drive trains, the lubricant must maintain a thick film in order to protect the bearing surfaces. Too thick a lubricant will cause poor cold weather performance and loss of mpg, while too thin a lubricant will cause undue wear. Of course, the lubricant is also used for cooling. The lubricant transfers heat from the bearings and gearing to the case where it is transferred to the air.

Gearing: Most gear types in manual transmissions are of the helical type, which because of the cut, reduce noise and vibration. Due to their angular cut, thrust loads are transmitted to the shafts on which they reside. The gears on the input and output shafts are usually produced in one integrated piece, called “gear clusters, “ or the cluster gear assembly. You will notice the only gear that is actually moved is the reverse idler gear. This is moved into position to mesh with the small reverse gear on the input shaft so you can “back up” or reverse direction. At higher reverse speeds, this gear will usually give off the familiar “reverse” whine. Lubricant effects: Being in constant mesh, they are dipping in the oil bath and slinging the oil up to the shifter assembly. Since they transmit torque, they must have an anti-wear/Extreme Pressure additive in the lubricant in order to reduce wear. The slipping and rolling action of the gear teeth causes localized high pressures and heating. The anti-wear/Extreme Pressure additive forms a protective but complex ferrous film at the contact surface to protect from galling and other wear mechanisms. Other components such as thrust washers, flat thrust bearings of the roller type, and shims may also need cooling, lubricant film, and anti-wear additives as well.

Rebuilding manual transmissions usually require only a modest rebuild kit consisting of bearings, synchronizers, and seals unless the transmission has been abused or the wrong lubricant has been used. In that case, gear teeth need to be examined for any chipping, galling, breakage, or other signs of problems.

(Transmission Kits).
http://www.manualtransmissionkits.com/nv4500_bk308ws_bearing_kit_rebui.htm

Here are some individual transmission parts layed out for Jeep transmissions but is typical of others.
http://www.4wd.com/Transmission-and-Transfercase/Manual-Transmissions.aspx?t_c=69&t_s=239

Images of Manual Transmissions, both external and internal:
http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=manu...ORM=IGRE#x0y810

If you are going to modify or rebuild your Manual Transmission, I highly recommend this book or equivalent::
http://www.mre-books.com/transmissions/rebuild_and_modify.html

Passing Thoughts

One variation on the Manual Transmission is the “Automated Manual” using a dual clutch. Some people consider many of the Honda Automatic Transmissions simply automated manual’s as well.
http://www.allpar.com/corporate/auto-manual-transmission.html

A long winded History and Summary but without the in-depth knowledge of internal mecahnics-vs-lubricants:
http://dictionary.sensagent.com/Manual_transmission/en-en/

I like this link; it contains online MT manuals for classic Chevy’s:
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/trans/index.htm
 
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