Thickest oil used in Ford 4.0?

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Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
You could try a thin 10W-40....

A thin 10w-40? I'd try for a thicker 30 grade first, really.
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Originally Posted By: Garak

A thin 10w-40? I'd try for a thicker 30 grade first, really.
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I can't understand how you can be so viscosity cautious when you're running an unauthorized grade in your Infinity.
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Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: Garak

A thin 10w-40? I'd try for a thicker 30 grade first, really.
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I can't understand how you can be so viscosity cautious when you're running an unauthorized grade in your Infinity.
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lol!

To answer your question, I would try a 10w-30 and see how that goes first. The absolute thickest I would go in that engine is 10w-40. My mom has the '10 v6 mustang and I put in there 5 qts of synthetic 5w-30 and 1 qt of 10w-40 since it holds 6 qts.
 
No reason at all to use a thick oil in a 4.0 motor.

The 4.0 V6 in my Explorer has used 5w30 it's entire life with no issues.It now has 200,000 miles.The only issue it has is the frame is starting to rust really bad,so it's getting time to retire the vehicle.
 
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
What's the thickest oil anyone has used in a Ford 4.0 V6?


Is that a question or a challenge?

How about Penrite HPR 50
It's 40-70, note the manly lack of W rating

HPR50005.png


Just joking, but the V6 and V8 Ford Explorers were sold in Australia, which means 3 out of 4 of them would be running either 20W-50 or 15W-40 mineral oil.

But I would listen to Clevy, he obvious has some experience with this engine

Originally Posted By: Clevy
Having a lot of experience with the 4.6 2v I learned some neat tidbits.

The chain guides wearing is highly dependent on the chains themselves. If the chain links were stamped out late in the die's life it makes the edges rough and will rip the plastic guides up faster than if the links were stamped out when the die was new.
Thicker oil does incur a fuel economy penalty however a 40 grade is far better than a 20 grade in respect to the tensioner guides wearing out. It leaves behind a thicker oil film at start up which from what I've seen with mine is the primary time of wear.
Mos2 seems to help. When I put a new tensioner and guides in my 2v at 200000km I also began using mos2. When I tore that engine apart at 300000kms and compared the wear on the guides compared to new ones the only wear I could see was at the ends,and it was very slight. When I originally replaced them at 200000km on the engine the guides were so badly worn the chains actually dug into the metal behind the guides and effectively destroyed everything necessitating complete replacement of everything behind the timing cover.
The only change few the first 200000kms and the last 100000kms was mos2 and I ran a 40 grade during the summer. The car also got a nitrous kit at the same time as I did the chains and tensioner.
So the combo of using a 40 grade and mos2 almost eliminated visible chain guide wear.
So fwiw thicker oil can in a real sense lessen guide wear however an engine is more than just chain guides,so you've gotta consider the whole package.
 
Originally Posted By: gallydif
To answer your question, I would try a 10w-30 and see how that goes first.

That really won't get him any thicker in operational viscosity, though, unless a 10w-30 HDEO is chosen, since he's done an ILSAC 10w-30. That isn't any thicker than an ILSAC 5w-30, either, at least at operating temperatures.
 
Originally Posted By: SR5
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
What's the thickest oil anyone has used in a Ford 4.0 V6?


Is that a question or a challenge?

How about Penrite HPR 50
It's 40-70, note the manly lack of W rating

HPR50005.png


Just joking, but the V6 and V8 Ford Explorers were sold in Australia, which means 3 out of 4 of them would be running either 20W-50 or 15W-40 mineral oil.

But I would listen to Clevy, he obvious has some experience with this engine

Originally Posted By: Clevy
Having a lot of experience with the 4.6 2v I learned some neat tidbits.

The chain guides wearing is highly dependent on the chains themselves. If the chain links were stamped out late in the die's life it makes the edges rough and will rip the plastic guides up faster than if the links were stamped out when the die was new.
Thicker oil does incur a fuel economy penalty however a 40 grade is far better than a 20 grade in respect to the tensioner guides wearing out. It leaves behind a thicker oil film at start up which from what I've seen with mine is the primary time of wear.
Mos2 seems to help. When I put a new tensioner and guides in my 2v at 200000km I also began using mos2. When I tore that engine apart at 300000kms and compared the wear on the guides compared to new ones the only wear I could see was at the ends,and it was very slight. When I originally replaced them at 200000km on the engine the guides were so badly worn the chains actually dug into the metal behind the guides and effectively destroyed everything necessitating complete replacement of everything behind the timing cover.
The only change few the first 200000kms and the last 100000kms was mos2 and I ran a 40 grade during the summer. The car also got a nitrous kit at the same time as I did the chains and tensioner.
So the combo of using a 40 grade and mos2 almost eliminated visible chain guide wear.
So fwiw thicker oil can in a real sense lessen guide wear however an engine is more than just chain guides,so you've gotta consider the whole package.


Haha AWESOME!! :^) I'd love to have a quart of that oil as a souvenir!
 
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Having a lot of experience with the 4.6 2v I learned some neat tidbits.

The chain guides wearing is highly dependent on the chains themselves. If the chain links were stamped out late in the die's life it makes the edges rough and will rip the plastic guides up faster than if the links were stamped out when the die was new.
Thicker oil does incur a fuel economy penalty however a 40 grade is far better than a 20 grade in respect to the tensioner guides wearing out. It leaves behind a thicker oil film at start up which from what I've seen with mine is the primary time of wear.
Mos2 seems to help. When I put a new tensioner and guides in my 2v at 200000km I also began using mos2. When I tore that engine apart at 300000kms and compared the wear on the guides compared to new ones the only wear I could see was at the ends,and it was very slight. When I originally replaced them at 200000km on the engine the guides were so badly worn the chains actually dug into the metal behind the guides and effectively destroyed everything necessitating complete replacement of everything behind the timing cover.
The only change few the first 200000kms and the last 100000kms was mos2 and I ran a 40 grade during the summer. The car also got a nitrous kit at the same time as I did the chains and tensioner.
So the combo of using a 40 grade and mos2 almost eliminated visible chain guide wear.
So fwiw thicker oil can in a real sense lessen guide wear however an engine is more than just chain guides,so you've gotta consider the whole package.

Good information! I will be looking at vehicles that are known for timing chain guide wear and was thinking of running a grade heavier to help. Adding a dash of mos2 would be a good idea too.
 
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
What's the thickest oil anyone has used in a Ford 4.0 V6 (2007 Mustang)? Of all the oils I've used in it,so far the "thickest" 10W30 has been the smoothest. Synths make it feel loose and sloppy. Thinking about trying a mineral 10W40. Anyone ever use or try a 40 wt oil in one of these engines? I was thinking someone here did but I can't remember who it was.


Sounds like you are trying to mask the sound of the engine with thicker oil than the engine should use.
 
Originally Posted By: SR5

How about Penrite HPR 50
It's 40-70, note the manly lack of W rating

HPR50005.png



Don't laugh about it, I have a mate who if he knew it existed would run out and grab a bottle for his AU Fairmont. And then say how I should use it in my VT.
 
Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
What's the thickest oil anyone has used in a Ford 4.0 V6 (2007 Mustang)? Of all the oils I've used in it,so far the "thickest" 10W30 has been the smoothest. Synths make it feel loose and sloppy. Thinking about trying a mineral 10W40. Anyone ever use or try a 40 wt oil in one of these engines? I was thinking someone here did but I can't remember who it was.


Sounds like you are trying to mask the sound of the engine with thicker oil than the engine should use.


Well,not necessarily the sound per se,but the whole "feel" of the engine. Using a "thick" 10W30 really smoothed out this engine. Sounded healthier and accelerated and cruised smoother. Maybe it's just the nature of the beast? Are these engines known to feel kind've unrefined and "sloppy"? Someone here a couple years ago used M1 0W40 in his 07 Mustang and loved it. Of course I have no need for a 0W oil here as our winters pretty much stay in the 70s.
 
I thought I read that those motors or mine atleast in signature was a Cologne motor made in Germany?? Specifically built using & requiring 5w30. I read this along time ago so please dont take offense if im wrong???
shocked.gif
 
Originally Posted By: peejaycruiser
Originally Posted By: SR5

How about Penrite HPR 50
It's 40-70, note the manly lack of W rating

HPR50005.png



Don't laugh about it, I have a mate who if he knew it existed would run out and grab a bottle for his AU Fairmont. And then say how I should use it in my VT.


Hi PJC,

Welcome !!

That semi-synthetic Shell Helix HX7 10W-40 you are running in your VT Commodore with 3.8 V6 sounds pretty good to me. It's API SN, ACEA A3/B4 and MB 229.3. A good oil for the price.

I'm a Castrol, Penrite and Valvoline sort of guy. But the Shell Helix range is such a good oil for the price in Oz, it's hard to walk past it. Every time I look, the HX7 semi-synthetic always costs less than the equivalent Castrol Magnatec or Valvoline DuraBlend. Same with the MB 229.5 full synthetics. I've started buying Shell too.

Enjoy your time here mate.
 
So how many miles are on this engine?

I have run quite a few "little" Ford V-6's to well over 200,000 miles. The last one went 242K when it was turned in due to fleet rules ...

I found that switching to Delo400 15-40 at 100K reduced a lot of the clatter and the motor ran smoother from there out. So that's what they got once they crossed the 100K mark
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
So how many miles are on this engine?

I have run quite a few "little" Ford V-6's to well over 200,000 miles. The last one went 242K when it was turned in due to fleet rules ...

I found that switching to Delo400 15-40 at 100K reduced a lot of the clatter and the motor ran smoother from there out. So that's what they got once they crossed the 100K mark
smile.gif



It's nearing 128,000 miles. I hadn't driven it in awhile (was getting the tranny rebuilt). Got in it and drove it and had forgotten how noisy and unrefined these engines sound and feel. Definitely worse with synths. Leaning towards Pennzoil,GTX,or Valvoline 10W40.
 
I'd be curious to know how well Synpower 5W-40 would do in that Mustang. I bought a quart of it once and was surprised by how fast it poured out of the bottle. It poured out faster than my 10W-30. I'm not recommending it though because it's ridiculously expensive.
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
I'd be curious to know how well Synpower 5W-40 would do in that Mustang. I bought a quart of it once and was surprised by how fast it poured out of the bottle. It poured out faster than my 10W-30.


One of the Walmarts here used to sell Synpower 5W40 for around $6 a quart. Don't think they carry it anymore though.
 
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
So how many miles are on this engine?

I have run quite a few "little" Ford V-6's to well over 200,000 miles. The last one went 242K when it was turned in due to fleet rules ...

I found that switching to Delo400 15-40 at 100K reduced a lot of the clatter and the motor ran smoother from there out. So that's what they got once they crossed the 100K mark
smile.gif



It's nearing 128,000 miles. I hadn't driven it in awhile (was getting the tranny rebuilt). Got in it and drove it and had forgotten how noisy and unrefined these engines sound and feel. Definitely worse with synths. Leaning towards Pennzoil,GTX,or Valvoline 10W40.


How about a semi-synthetic ? The forgotten middle child.
In 10W40
 
Originally Posted By: SR5

Hi PJC,

Welcome !!

That semi-synthetic Shell Helix HX7 10W-40 you are running in your VT Commodore with 3.8 V6 sounds pretty good to me. It's API SN, ACEA A3/B4 and MB 229.3. A good oil for the price.

I'm a Castrol, Penrite and Valvoline sort of guy. But the Shell Helix range is such a good oil for the price in Oz, it's hard to walk past it. Every time I look, the HX7 semi-synthetic always costs less than the equivalent Castrol Magnatec or Valvoline DuraBlend. Same with the MB 229.5 full synthetics. I've started buying Shell too.

Enjoy your time here mate.

Thanks mate. HX7 from kmart is $32 so a good price. I grabbed some Helix Ultra 5w-40 from Supercheap while it was on special so will run that for next oil change. I'm hoping the ultra will be sufficient for the summer temps we're being told we will be getting.
 
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