Has anyone done a compression check. If the 4th cylinder is low, that could be more ammunition for a warranty.
Have a leak down done as well.. That's a better check.
Have a leak down done as well.. That's a better check.
2015 Camry 4 cyl antienvironmental oil burner
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Originally Posted By: Benito
Just remove enough oil from the vehicle at the next "test".
Or move up to xw30.
They fill the oil and seal the engine at the beginning of the test. Moving up in oil weight would void my warranty.
Just remove enough oil from the vehicle at the next "test".
Or move up to xw30.
They fill the oil and seal the engine at the beginning of the test. Moving up in oil weight would void my warranty.
Originally Posted By: Turk
Uses that much???
There's LOADS of people that never check oil between changes.
Just think how many of those cars that drive around on LOW oil!!!
The shop manager estimated that only 10% of customer check their oil.
Uses that much???
There's LOADS of people that never check oil between changes.
Just think how many of those cars that drive around on LOW oil!!!
The shop manager estimated that only 10% of customer check their oil.
Originally Posted By: IndyIan
You could drive around at in lower gears for the next test period. Staying between 3-4krpm on the highway won't hurt anything but fuel mileage. Leave it in 2nd around town to get lots of vacuum going when decelerating.
I think, but I'm not sure, that the computer would record that. Any overt attempt to tamper with the test will probably be caught.
You could drive around at in lower gears for the next test period. Staying between 3-4krpm on the highway won't hurt anything but fuel mileage. Leave it in 2nd around town to get lots of vacuum going when decelerating.
I think, but I'm not sure, that the computer would record that. Any overt attempt to tamper with the test will probably be caught.
Originally Posted By: satinsilver
Hmmm, interesting posts from another thread:
Originally Posted By: WayneandAnna
I've a new 2015 Camry, 4 cylinder, that uses oil. My brother says the vehicle will use less oil as the oil gets dirty, and the particles in the oil help seal the rings. My son says the vehicle will use more oil as the viscosity thins as the oil gets more miles on it. Who is right?
Originally Posted By: WayneandAnna
I've used a little over 5 quarts in the first 12,500 miles. The usage rate is double in hills and mountains as on flat ground here in Illinois. The last 1,200 mile test was screwed up, so we're redoing it.
I'm currently getting 33.5 mpg.
Originally Posted By: WayneandAnna
The service manager gets hot under the collar when I try to extrapolate the short term oil usage to what the engine will likely use between oil changes -- 10,000 miles. If fact, he's so mad at me asking questions that I keep thinking he'll have a heart attack while I'm talking to him. I think the engine will use more oil as the oil gets dirty. My son agrees and my brother doesn't. Both or better mechanics than me.
Originally Posted By: WayneandAnna
My gas mileage is 32 mpg. The sticker said I should get 35 mpg.
Any thoughts or advice?
Hmmm, interesting posts from another thread:
Originally Posted By: WayneandAnna
I've a new 2015 Camry, 4 cylinder, that uses oil. My brother says the vehicle will use less oil as the oil gets dirty, and the particles in the oil help seal the rings. My son says the vehicle will use more oil as the viscosity thins as the oil gets more miles on it. Who is right?
Originally Posted By: WayneandAnna
I've used a little over 5 quarts in the first 12,500 miles. The usage rate is double in hills and mountains as on flat ground here in Illinois. The last 1,200 mile test was screwed up, so we're redoing it.
I'm currently getting 33.5 mpg.
Originally Posted By: WayneandAnna
The service manager gets hot under the collar when I try to extrapolate the short term oil usage to what the engine will likely use between oil changes -- 10,000 miles. If fact, he's so mad at me asking questions that I keep thinking he'll have a heart attack while I'm talking to him. I think the engine will use more oil as the oil gets dirty. My son agrees and my brother doesn't. Both or better mechanics than me.
Originally Posted By: WayneandAnna
My gas mileage is 32 mpg. The sticker said I should get 35 mpg.
Any thoughts or advice?
Originally Posted By: exranger06
Do they seal up EVERYTHING, or just the dipstick? I would see if I could unscrew the oil filter and reinstall it. A good half quart or so should spill out as soon you remove the filter.
Everything is sealed.
Do they seal up EVERYTHING, or just the dipstick? I would see if I could unscrew the oil filter and reinstall it. A good half quart or so should spill out as soon you remove the filter.
Everything is sealed.
This whole case proves that an engine has to be pretty tight to run 0W-20 without consumption. All it takes is for one cylinder to have slightly less ring tension than it's supposed to and there goes the oil.
Originally Posted By: turtlevette
Has anyone done a compression check. If the 4th cylinder is low, that could be more ammunition for a warranty.
Have a leak down done as well.. That's a better check.
I asked for and got a compression check. All four cylinders were very good, but the spark plug in cylinder 4 had burnt oil on it.
Has anyone done a compression check. If the 4th cylinder is low, that could be more ammunition for a warranty.
Have a leak down done as well.. That's a better check.
I asked for and got a compression check. All four cylinders were very good, but the spark plug in cylinder 4 had burnt oil on it.
So do they seal the dipstick to the dipstick tube? Leave that alone and unbolt the tube from the oil pan, then sneak a 1/8" hose in the hole up top of your pan and siphon out the oil you want out.
Or pull the oil pressure sender and install a cheap gauge and its tiny hose. Put the hose in a mason jar and run it. Rig up the plunger so the car never sees low pressure, it could throw a code for that.
I had a saturn s-series that before I owned it went into the dealer for oil consumption. The dealer mechanics replaced *one* piston. You could be lining yourself up for similar shenanigans, that are 95% of the work of a rebuild, but will turn out to be a half-baked one of the worst sort.
Or pull the oil pressure sender and install a cheap gauge and its tiny hose. Put the hose in a mason jar and run it. Rig up the plunger so the car never sees low pressure, it could throw a code for that.
I had a saturn s-series that before I owned it went into the dealer for oil consumption. The dealer mechanics replaced *one* piston. You could be lining yourself up for similar shenanigans, that are 95% of the work of a rebuild, but will turn out to be a half-baked one of the worst sort.
Originally Posted By: eljefino
So do they seal the dipstick to the dipstick tube? Leave that alone and unbolt the tube from the oil pan, then sneak a 1/8" hose in the hole up top of your pan and siphon out the oil you want out.
Believe me, everything has at least one seal on it. And, they take pictures of every seal.
So do they seal the dipstick to the dipstick tube? Leave that alone and unbolt the tube from the oil pan, then sneak a 1/8" hose in the hole up top of your pan and siphon out the oil you want out.
Believe me, everything has at least one seal on it. And, they take pictures of every seal.
The catalytic converter will probably get clogged up eventually from all the oil it's having to burn.
like i always say if you have a problem with a new car try the stealer first then the car company give them a chance then if nothing happens call a lemon law attorney they are FREE and work well.
this is not uncommon with the 4cyl toyota after 2011 or so same with BMW and a few others.
Conventional 5W30 summer, 0W30 winter. That is what I would do.
I'd drive it like I not only stole it, but hated it and wanted to make it suffer.
That'll do one of two things: 1) seat the dang rings and solve the problem permanently, or 2) make it flunk the test and get you a new engine.
Actually it might do both- it could seat the rings but not until its consumed too much oil to pass the test.
That'll do one of two things: 1) seat the dang rings and solve the problem permanently, or 2) make it flunk the test and get you a new engine.
Actually it might do both- it could seat the rings but not until its consumed too much oil to pass the test.
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Run it out of oil. Keep a jug of ol' oil in the trunk. When it seizes, fill her up and then tow it to the dealer.
+1 to both of them RE: drive it like you stole it.
Many a times I see new car owners "pamper" their engine immediately after they bought them from the dealer's lot. Too bad the CVT or A/T trannie (when set on "D" mode), does not work the engine hard RE: acceleration and deceleration (I'm specifically talking about engine braking to create high vacuum in NA engine).
Myself I've owned quite a few M/T cars so far, with 2 of them bought entirely new from the lot (incl. my current fit). I gave them some serious "whipping" during the first several days, and then changed oil. None of those engines suffer from burning oil issues.
(*did the same with my wifey's camry after we got it, but instead I kept shifting between "2", "3" and "D" back-n-forth to create the much needed load on the engine during rapid acceleration and deceleration (high vacuum).
Worked out nicely.
Q.
Many a times I see new car owners "pamper" their engine immediately after they bought them from the dealer's lot. Too bad the CVT or A/T trannie (when set on "D" mode), does not work the engine hard RE: acceleration and deceleration (I'm specifically talking about engine braking to create high vacuum in NA engine).
Myself I've owned quite a few M/T cars so far, with 2 of them bought entirely new from the lot (incl. my current fit). I gave them some serious "whipping" during the first several days, and then changed oil. None of those engines suffer from burning oil issues.
(*did the same with my wifey's camry after we got it, but instead I kept shifting between "2", "3" and "D" back-n-forth to create the much needed load on the engine during rapid acceleration and deceleration (high vacuum).
Worked out nicely.
Q.
THIS!
This is exactly what I thought!
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
I'd drive it like I not only stole it, but hated it and wanted to make it suffer.
That'll do one of two things: 1) seat the dang rings and solve the problem permanently, or 2) make it flunk the test and get you a new engine.
Actually it might do both- it could seat the rings but not until its consumed too much oil to pass the test.
This is exactly what I thought!
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
I'd drive it like I not only stole it, but hated it and wanted to make it suffer.
That'll do one of two things: 1) seat the dang rings and solve the problem permanently, or 2) make it flunk the test and get you a new engine.
Actually it might do both- it could seat the rings but not until its consumed too much oil to pass the test.
Take them to small claims. Just because the dealer sets the standard at 1000mi per quart doesn't mean the general public accepted standard is the same. This car will have a poor resale value because of that. Sue for value lost.
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