Star fire 0w20,5225 miles, Honda Pilot 3.5

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Member Chris Meutsch PMed me to host a UOA of the above.

08%20PILOT-092615_0_1.jpg
 
Low wear metals are typical Honda engines. TBN of 2.3 after only 5200 miles is not good. I wouldn't extend OCI beyond 6000-6500 miles. I like TBN in the high 1.x for some cushion.
 
Thanks to Shannow!

I agree, HTSS_TR, I wouldn't go past 6k on this. The MM was at 10%, this car short-trips a lot also. There was one 1100 mile trip in July.

I'd be curious to see how this oil would do in my CR-V but I don't want to find out my mechanic accidentally changed my oil to this again....
 
Originally Posted By: Chris Meutsch
Thanks to Shannow!

I agree, HTSS_TR, I wouldn't go past 6k on this. The MM was at 10%, this car short-trips a lot also. There was one 1100 mile trip in July.

I'd be curious to see how this oil would do in my CR-V but I don't want to find out my mechanic accidentally changed my oil to this again....

I think you need to talk to your mechanic about this low quality oil.

If you didn't ask to change oil then he shouldn't do it. If you did ask for oil change then he should use better quality oil(any name brand or at minimum Walmart Super Tech) than Star Fire, or you bring with you a name brand oil of your choice.
 
How can you conclude the oil is low quality?

The MM is at 10% and it looks like the oil could safely go the ~500 miles that would run it down to 0%.

Apart from the EP oils, how do we know that any other 0w20 would not be in the same position after 5k miles of short trips with the fuel dilution?
 
Originally Posted By: Benito
How can you conclude the oil is low quality?

The MM is at 10% and it looks like the oil could safely go the ~500 miles that would run it down to 0%.

Apart from the EP oils, how do we know that any other 0w20 would not be in the same position after 5k miles of short trips with the fuel dilution?

FWIW, PQIA says it meets specs, although I realize some will say the add pack is weak...
http://www.pqiamerica.com/June 2014/coolantplus.htm
Kevin
 
I agree with the last few posts...the oil would see the OLM out, and still provide good, safe protection.

As long as Chris gets the cost savings, and it's not a mechanic cheaping out but still charging, it's as good as it gets.

After all...0W20 always has superior basestocks...etc...etc...
 
Originally Posted By: Benito
How can you conclude the oil is low quality?

The MM is at 10% and it looks like the oil could safely go the ~500 miles that would run it down to 0%.

Apart from the EP oils, how do we know that any other 0w20 would not be in the same position after 5k miles of short trips with the fuel dilution?


This is where I stand on this oil and I knew we all had to get a UOA snapshot of it.

Background is, I went in for a brake fluid flush and a tire rotation to my indy mechanic. I came out with with the flush and an oil change. I went right back in, told them of the mistake, and got a very quick and free tire rotation. I actually made out better in the deal than if the proper services were done. The one downside is that M1 0w20 was dumped out after 2k and I degraded to a Valvoline filter from a Fram Ultra.

If I had a proper garage and all the tools/knowledge AND the time, I would be my own mechanic.
 
Good starting tbn,good dose of moly. Looks like a decent voa per PQIA and your uoa looks great wear metal wise.
 
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