Small Engine - Dino Break In

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So what's the consensus for Small Engines. Or is the answer specific to the application.....

Do you guys feel Dino for Break in is the golden rule.
4-5 Hr run, drain and then whatever oil of preference (whether it by dino, semi-syn or syn).

Got me a new snowblower being delivered tomorrow...
 
I use dino for small engine break-in, just because its less expensive. I don't leave the oil in more than 30 minutes of run time , the next fill goes for 2 hours then once a season. So dino for the first 2 fills as its cheaper then syn. I've done this with all the lawn mower engines i've had.
 
IMHO.....When the snowblower is delivered, see what they recommend/require in the owners manual that comes with item. They may have a suggestion/requirement for your break-in use oil.
 
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IMO syn or no syn, it's not really an issue.

What really matters most during initial 5hrs of small OPE engines to run-in properly (change the oil immediately afterwards) is to give the engine cycling between full-load (or at least 80% load) and then no load (high-vacuum whenever possible). This should give any piston-rings to bore outstanding issues to fix itself (i.e. properly "seating" in), then all would be fine afterwards until the day the engine live past it's serviceable life.

Too many a times, OPE or even regular automobile engine owners "baby" their engines shortly after acquiring them, which lead to elevated oil burning due to improper ring "seating"...

Q.
 
I use whatever is planned to be used after the break in period. I use syn oil in all my personal ope's. But I have a nice stash of clearance find synthetics.
I start with a short 20minute run-in and change oil/tune carb. Next service at 1hr.
5hr services til oil burn drops off, OEM oci's after that.
Also keep it loaded heavy. You want to load the rings or the can become glazed.
At work we dyno most of our remans before shipping. Co policy is idle light load til warm.
Full load at fast idle, 1,000rpm, 2,000rpm, 3,000rpm, then wot governor, all speeds for 15minutes each,
Full load is apply load to engine til rpms drop, back load off til engine smooths out.

-Harvey
 
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Your oil plan sounds fine. It will be cold first time you use it let it idle warm up for a few minutes before using it. Then as was suggested don't fully load it continuously on long runs. +1 number one thing is to not overheat the rings as they wear in and seal.

IMO Modern machining and materials this process is not nearly as critical as it used to be but cant hurt.
 
Originally Posted By: Quest
IMO syn or no syn, it's not really an issue.

What really matters most during initial 5hrs of small OPE engines to run-in properly (change the oil immediately afterwards) is to give the engine cycling between full-load (or at least 80% load) and then no load (high-vacuum whenever possible). This should give any piston-rings to bore outstanding issues to fix itself (i.e. properly "seating" in), then all would be fine afterwards until the day the engine live past it's serviceable life.

Too many a times, OPE or even regular automobile engine owners "baby" their engines shortly after acquiring them, which lead to elevated oil burning due to improper ring "seating"...

Q.


+1 this is what I do gotta get a load on them for proper break in don't baby it.
 
Originally Posted By: spasm3
I use dino for small engine break-in, just because its less expensive. I don't leave the oil in more than 30 minutes of run time , the next fill goes for 2 hours then once a season.


Exactly what I did with my snowblower. Let me tell you, that first drain (the 30 min one) was very "glittery" as it drained. I was glad I changed it so soon!
 
Originally Posted By: zrxkawboy
Originally Posted By: spasm3
I use dino for small engine break-in, just because its less expensive. I don't leave the oil in more than 30 minutes of run time , the next fill goes for 2 hours then once a season.


Exactly what I did with my snowblower. Let me tell you, that first drain (the 30 min one) was very "glittery" as it drained. I was glad I changed it so soon!


I've noticed the same with aircooled engines. May only be coatings off the bearings, but i don't want it in there. I use synthetic , but only after the first 2 changes.
 
Originally Posted By: Bluestream
The truth is it doesn't really matter what you're going to use


Nope it doesn't.

Though it does make you think.
For example today we get daily "my car uses oil" thread. And oil consumption today seems to be a real issue with most every manufacturer though it's not really consistent,more like hit and miss.
Are these oil burners shipped with synthetic. And does that affect break in.
Personally I doubt it. Oil is oil. However I just figured it might be worth a second or 2 of thought.
For me because I'm old school I use a conventional for break in and of course do a couple of short intervals to wash out any metal flecks. It's cheaper.
The greatest oem engine manufacturers on earth use a syn right from day one these days and they seem to do just fine with them.
I'm cheap. And I see no point in paying more for oil when I'm going to dump it before it's black anyways.
 
Dino or syn ... doesn't matter. So, use dino ... it's cheaper. First change at or before the 2 hour mark, 2nd oil change at or around the 5 hour mark and the 3rd oil change at the 10-12 hour mark.

You need to flush out the countless wear bits in that break-in oil.

After that, change once per season if you are a home-owner and not a contractor.

I also use a UCL during break-in ... Lucas UCL, MMO or a TCW3.

As for engine RPMs, I generally run my snow blower at one speed: WFO ... wide flying open. RPMs throw snow. Piddling around at 50-75% max RPMs is a recipe for a long, frustrating, and messy time.
 
The latest chart I've seen from B&S indicated that 5w30 synthetic is the best option followed by 10w30. I used the oil that came with my new B&S and drained it at 5 hours as recommended. I now use PP 10w30 and change once a year but I never reach the 50 hour OCI they recommend as max. Ed
 
I just purchased a new Husqvarna snow blower with the LCT storm force engine. It actually came pre filled from the factory ( received in the crate so it was not store assembled) with whatever they factory filled it with. I brought it home and assembled it myself. I ran it in my driveway for about 10 min then drained the factory fill and replaced with Mobil 1 5W-30.
I really wouldn't worry to much about oil choice, snow blowers are not built like the old days and I would anticipate the body rusting out long before the engine gives up the ghost.
 
Originally Posted By: Bluestream
The truth is it doesn't really matter what you're going to use


This.

A few years ago, my girlfriends dad bought a new snowblower. The OM said to run the FF to about 5 hrs then dump it. It recommended 5w30 conventional or 0w30 synthetic.

What a bogus spec!
 
I use whatever was given in the box for the first 3 hours then switch to Mobil 1. I change the Mobil 1 after 10 hours then whenever it gets dark after that. Once a year at least.
 
We got 30 inches this weekend. Ended up running her for 3.4 hrs per the hr meter, dumped it, and put in another fill of PYB 5W30.

Starts just fine on dino....me wonders if there is any benefit to going syn, aside from running a HEDO variant
 
I follow the manufactures recommendation which was 5 hours on FF and then 50hr or one a year on the oil change. I usually don't purchase bottom of the line engines so dumping FF in a few minutes is not necessary. Ed
 
ChefWong, it all depends on how cold it is when you start it. No reason to have to run synthetic if the garage it is kept in gets some or even a great deal of heat.
 
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