Oil Purification Systems

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Rex

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Anyone using or familiar with the OPS system? They state their product "effectively removing both solid and liquid contaminants"

Looks like they target more towards the big rig and larger generator units.

http://ops-1.com/
 
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There's no reason to use such a system on a personal transportation vehicle. There would be no economic pay back for the investment.

Just use an oil that meets the manufacturer's spec's, a good oil filter and determine an OCI and maintenance schedule that suits your needs. And don't forget other maintenance and fluids management including filters, and you're done.
 
Originally Posted By: Rex
Anyone using or familiar with the OPS system? They state their product "effectively removing both solid and liquid contaminants"

Looks like they target more towards the big rig and larger generator units.

http://ops-1.com/


I'm not using there system, but am using Amsoil Dual-Gard on an 09 6.4 Powerstroke and a PuraDyn TF-24 on an 93 Cummins 6BT. So far both systems are working as advertised:) Another sample will be taken in 2 weeks on both trucks.:) Results will be posted on this site.

Puradyn TF-24:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CXfkkhM7YJg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5x6xTRIfGyI

Amsoil Dual Gard:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A_-W1zXxImc
 
As with most By pass setups you honestly have to be realistic and figure out if you actually will really get any benefit from the Bypass filter. .So how long will you actually own the vehicle and how many miles will you put on the vehicle per year and during the vehicles lifetime. If you really will benefit from a filter setup they it will be worth it maybe.
 
When we realize that a bypass filter can be easily moved from one vehicle to the next, trying to justify the cost via a financial return within the lifespan of the first vehicle doesn't really make any sense.
 
I have spent most of my life working and servicing engines that have bypass filters.
 
Okay, I'll accept that, but it's not relevant to my point. My point was simply that the cost-benefit analysis of a bypass filter is flawed if you only consider the use on a single vehicle. When you consider that the filter can be moved from vehicle to vehicle, that completely changes things.

Not a big deal, but it's something that is frequently overlooked in these discussions.
 
I love the franz units. A friend(now deceased) bought one in the 70s and used it on every truck he bought,moving it as he traded in the old ones.
He always ignored the oil change interval suggested by the manufacturers,and would do a used oil analysis every 10000 miles and base his interval on the data.
He owned a body shop and would drive across the western provinces buying cars and fixing them for sale. So he towed a trailer picking up multiple units on his runs.
Of course his trucks were diesels.
He would change the oil once the wear metals past 100ppm. That was his hard limit. His intervals were anywhere from 50000-75000 miles. At which point he'd change out the toilet paper and the full flow and drive on.
At trade in time he'd supply the dealer with all his data and even though he ignored the manufacturers interval he'd get market value for the truck.
So the Franz filter helped extend his oci which paid for the unit over and over again countless times.
But you've gotta consider his duty cycle. His truck ran loaded 80-90% of all his miles.
He typically traded in at 300000 miles. He swore by the filters and claimed the trucks ran as good when he traded as they did when he bought them,however the rest of the truck was at the point where it was going to require money and because of his business and how much time he spends in his truck he couldn't afford breakdowns or the truck needing be in a shop for days at a time.
I like the idea of by-pass filtration however on small sump vehicles I don't see much point. It's cheaper to change the oil than it is to get a used oil analysis done.
And today engine wear isn't a problem. Typically an engine outlives the rest of the vehicle.
I'm not saying don't buy one. Only that it's not cost effective UNLEAA the interval is greatly extended by its use.
 
Originally Posted By: AlaskaMike
When we realize that a bypass filter can be easily moved from one vehicle to the next, trying to justify the cost via a financial return within the lifespan of the first vehicle doesn't really make any sense.



Most people install one thinking (falsely) that the BP filter is going to somehow make the equipment magically last longer. Ironically they don't seem to have any ability to hold on to a car/truck/van/suv long enough to really make any tangible difference in life-span anyway.

If you use the BP filter to greatly alter your OCIs, such that you extend them out to help the ROI, then they can pay for themselves. However even this is a challenge on most consumer vehicles, because the sumps are small enough that the cost of an OCI really plays havoc with the true "full" cost of BP (which includes initial cost of purchase, expensive element filters, and successive UOAs to track the OCIs ...)


BP filters make great sense in large sump systems.
BP filters struggle to make sense in small sump systems.
BP filters really don't offer a unique benefit of longevity, despite what all marketing tells you.
 
When I lose a sock at the laundromat the orphan becomes the new family member of my out of vehicle oil purification system. It couldn't be simpler: I have a 45 gallon drum with a funnel that holds about a gallon at a time with an old sock or two attached to the bottom (secondary filters) and an old flannel shirt on the top (primary filter). I heat up the oil on top of the wood stove (which boils off the water and fuel) then pour it over the shirt filling the funnel. Repeat if necessary. Ideally your pick-up on a hand operated pump should be no closer than a few inches off the bottom of the oil drum. The heavier oil like 20W50 will be at the bottom while the lighter winter oil like 5W30 will be closer to the top.
 
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I almost forgot one of the most important components of the purification process and that is a magnet on a string to catch metal particles that are too small for the shirt and socks to catch. Before throwing away that old 8 track stereo or 78 rpm record player, take the magnets out of the speakers. I have magnets up to six inches in diameter that I use on a fishing rod to get coins people throw away into public water fountains and wishing wells.
 
Originally Posted By: userfriendly
I almost forgot one of the most important components of the purification process and that is a magnet on a string to catch metal particles that are too small for the shirt and socks to catch. Before throwing away that old 8 track stereo or 78 rpm record player, take the magnets out of the speakers. I have magnets up to six inches in diameter that I use on a fishing rod to get coins people throw away into public water fountains and wishing wells.
Sarcasm or does Canada use ferrous metals in their coins?
 
The story is a little dated CT8. I grew up in a double income family and spent my summers at a resort town on a lake. Too young for a driver's license, but I had the key to the motor boat. My dad, the ultimate cheapskate, still living in the glory days of the depression, would never leave more than a gallon of gas in the tank, so my friends and I would have to ("Use your own money for gas if you want to use the boat!") find an income source. Coins back then had a high silver content. After my parents passed, I was cleaning out the old cabin and found my speaker magnet on a string. Now I'm going to go through my change and see if Loonies and Twoonies are magnetic.
The marina on the lake sold 20:1 or optional 24:1 premix for about 35 cents a gallon, so if we could scrape together a couple of bucks between us, we could run around all day. (40HP Johnson, 16 foot aluminum)
 
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