Oil overfill causing vibrations?

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Last week I had the driver's side CV axle replaced in my Sedona, twice. The first one had a sloppy outer joint, causing vibration when accelerating, so they replaced it with another one. At the same time, I had them change the oil since it was needed. However, when in second gear from about 2,000-2,500 rpm, I feel a slight vibration in the steering wheel. It's less pronounced than the first bad axle, and goes away at all other RPMs, even under heavy acceleration. I noticed that they also overfilled the oil slightly. I did a test today and put it in park and raised the revs to that same range, and I also get that vibration in the steering wheel. So in gear, or in park, those vibrations are still there. So, two things...

1) can an overfill cause a rough running engine?
2) maybe the original bad axle (before the two replacements) was covering up vibrations because it had so much play in the inner joint?

Motor mounts and other bushings are all in good shape.
 
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Originally Posted By: OneEyeJack
Keep looking at the axles.


I've partly settled on the fact that most, if not all aftermarket axles will never be as good as the OEM, so there may be a little vibration that I have to live with. Who knows. All they can do is try throwing another axle at it, and with the down time it takes to get that done, it's not worth it. The axle has a 3-year warranty, so if something else major happens, I'll take it in for sure.
 
My VW got an aftermarket axle, and has a vibration at 2,000 RPMs the moment I drove away after it being replaced. Probably a bad axle.
 
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
My VW got an aftermarket axle, and has a vibration at 2,000 RPMs the moment I drove away after it being replaced. Probably a bad axle.


Did you live with the vibration or get it fixed?
 
Oil ovrefill could cause vibration in rare circunstances like if PCV is clogged or its hose pinched causing a lot back pressure and inbalance in some engines ... Specially boxer engines, with oil sloch at curves.
 
I should also add that the aftermarket axle is solid I believe, since it is a much smaller diameter than OEM. I've read that solid axles, while cheaper to make, can have resonance issues. That is why most OEM axles are hollow.
 
I got interrupted in the middle of a Navigator oil change one time (same RO with an engine miss) and changed the oil filter, but forgot to drain the crankcase. Took it on a test drive and noticed a very rough idle. Not happy.
 
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Originally Posted By: Rust_Belt_Pete
Were OEM axles avaliable? If yes how much more did they cost?

A lot more. I ordered one from our supplier for an accord last weekend and the a/m axle was about $55. OE from the dealer was in the $700 range.
 
Originally Posted By: Klutch9
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
My VW got an aftermarket axle, and has a vibration at 2,000 RPMs the moment I drove away after it being replaced. Probably a bad axle.


Did you live with the vibration or get it fixed?
I've lived with it, the vibration has gone down slightly, but it's definitely still there.

And as you said, the aftermarket was a lot smaller diameter than the new one. I wish I had new boots put on the old axle since all that was wrong was a torn boot.

Oh well I'm selling the car.
 
New aftermarket axles suck, plain and simple. I always look on ebay beforehand for a clean low mile used one from down south and reboot it with either Rockford Dura boots or OE boots if non are available with Redline CV grease.

I disassemble it, touch up the paint and clean the bearings spotless fore checking them for scoring. If needed i get another used axle for a bearing.
I have had shafts go 150K and beyond with no issues whatsoever after doing them this way.

I rather have $150 into a nice rebooted OE CV axle that the nightmare of living with either junk Chinese with cheap boots or reground rebuilds.
 
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