Grease in ratchet observation

[Merkava_4]

I've been using my ratchets as a lubrication test bed over the years. I'll go ahead and change to a different lube just to see what the sound difference is like. The test subject is a Snap-on FLF936. Every time I would grease up the ratchet, the ratchet would be quiet for about 30 minutes and then gradually get louder and louder. Today, I pulled the cover plate off the ratchet to take a peek and see what's going on. There was grease still applied to all sections of the ratchet interior, but the gear and the surrounding interior wall was wiped clean; that explains the noise. So at that point, I extracted all the grease from the ratchet's interior and switched over to an assembly lube called "Sealed Power" by Federal Mogul.

This is not the first time I've tried assembly lube; I've tried it several times before. The assembly lube makes an excellent lube by making the ratchet run quiet, but over time, the lube leaks out. Now even though it leaks out, it still leaves behind a residual film on the interior wall as well as the gear. So what that means is that over time, the ratchet will gradually get louder, but never quite as loud as it does when it has grease in it. So what I've concluded is that the assembly lube seems to be a good compromise; it's messier to use because it seeps out over time, but it seems to be superior to grease in terms of lubrication for said application.

 

[donnyj08]

you need to tell RP to send you that Assembly Lube so you can test it against Amsoil Assembly Lube in your ratchets

 

[CT8]

Assembly grease is comprised of solid lubricants possibly moly, graphite, zinc e.p. lubes etc.

 

[AMC]

Interesting observation. I use superlube grease for all my ratchets and I like it. I have found that a very thick, sticky, tacky, clingy grease will make your ratchets quiet but will add resistance and make the ratchet require more torque to ratchet to the next tooth.

I have also noticed what you are talking about where the grease basically gets "wiped" away from the main gear and pawl over time. A "self healing" type of lubricant that will flow back onto a surface it has been removed from fixes this issue. If this is what you want, I have tried the non aerosol version of fluid film and it works quite well. I have also tried Corrosion X but it is too thin and creeps too much IMO. My theory on why Fluid film works well is because when the ratchet is not being used and not agitating the fluid film, it thickens up and clings well to all the parts, ready to be used. Once you start using the ratchet, the fluid film is agitated, thins out slightly and starts to flow back to the moving parts as needed. Once you are done with the ratchet, the fluid film will flow back onto the parts where it was worn or "wiped" away due to friction and heat, then cools down, thickens up and clings well, ready for next time. The only caveat to this theory is if you store your ratchet that is in an area that stays very warm. If the fluid film never really gets a chance to cool down and thicken up again, it will just slowly leak out of the ratchet over time, like most regular oils will do.

I have also seen people lubricate their ratchets with a light coating of anti-seize compound and that supposedly works well but I have never tried it. I suspect the solid lubricants are what make that work well but I am not sure anti-seize is "wet" and slick enough on its own to be a good lubricant for ratchets and other small parts.

 

[JHZR2]

Have you tried a type 00 grease?

 

[AMC]

Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Have you tried a type 00 grease?


No but that would probably work well also. It should be just the right consistency, not too thick and clingy while not being too runny and creepy. You want your ratchet lube to be right in the middle of those traits, or in a perfect world, to have the properties of both.

 

[Leo99]

Are you professional mechanic? I can't imagine wearing out the grease in a ratchet as a DIYer. How much use does it take to wear out the grease in your ratchet? Do you trim the spring on the ratchet to make it smoother?

 

[AMC]

Originally Posted By: Leo99
Are you professional mechanic? I can't imagine wearing out the grease in a ratchet as a DIYer. How much use does it take to wear out the grease in your ratchet? Do you trim the spring on the ratchet to make it smoother?


No I am not but I am a pretty busy DIYer. I am wrenching usually 2-4 days a week for 1-5 hours a session, sometimes more, sometimes less. That being said, once a ratchet is lubed with anything other than oil, it does last a very long time, a few years usually. The problem is that Snap-on is the only brand of ratchet I have ever seen that comes properly lubricated. The DIY brand tools like craftsman, Kobalt, Husky and that type usually come bone dry. I also help friends and other DIYers lube their ratchets so I have seen quite a few now.

I have heard of people trimming springs but I don't think that is necessary. Lubing the ratchets makes a big difference on its own as far as smoothness.

 

[Ramblejam]

Have you tried Deere Corn Head Grease?

 

[ZeeOSix]

Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
I've been using my ratchets as a lubrication test bed over the years. I'll go ahead and change to a different lube just to see what the sound difference is like. The test subject is a Snap-on FLF936. Every time I would grease up the ratchet, the ratchet would be quiet for about 30 minutes and then gradually get louder and louder. Today, I pulled the cover plate off the ratchet to take a peek and see what's going on. There was grease still applied to all sections of the ratchet interior, but the gear and the surrounding interior wall was wiped clean; that explains the noise.


A ratchet only needs to be lubed enough to keep the ratcheting mechanism working smooth. Even though the grease might have "wiped clean" it still has a good film of grease on the ratcheting mechanism. When the ratchet is locked while torquing there isn't really any wear going on anyway because nothing is moving internally.

I've taken a few ratchets apart to get the old coagulated grease cleaned out and some new grease installed. Usually just use white grease or some good axle grease sparingly.

 

[gathermewool]

What wear are you concerned about? What's the failure mode you're trying to prevent? I'll admit that I've never considered lubing my ratchets.

 

[AMC]

Originally Posted By: gathermewool
What wear are you concerned about? What's the failure mode you're trying to prevent? I'll admit that I've never considered lubing my ratchets.


Ratchets do eventually wear out but I admit that lubing them is more about making them smooth and keeping them reliable. However, the teeth on the pawl or the main gear will eventually round over or break off completely and will make the ratchet slip any time a lot of torque is applied, knuckle buster! This happens more often with higher tooth count ratchets that see a lot of use. I have also owned 2 or 3 ratchets that will no longer switch direction because the stud that holds the selector to the pawl snaps or rounds off over time.

One note of caution about lubricating ratchets - Do not pack them full of grease like you would a wheel bearing. Just brush on a light coat inside the body of the ratchet, on the main gear, all over the pawl, the pawl detent and spring as well as inside the cover plate. Also, if your ratchet has more than 72 teeth, I recommend you lube it with a high viscosity oil that never gums up. Examples are thick gun oils, Corrosion X and fluid film. So long as it is a thicker oil with good cling, you should be golden. If you use a thin creepy oil, the oil will just drip off the parts and bleed out of the ratchet fairly quickly. I used to use ATF to lube ratchets but all it does is bleed out and make a mess.

 

[Merkava_4]

Originally Posted By: donnyj08
you need to tell RP to send you that Assembly Lube so you can test it against Amsoil Assembly Lube in your ratchets

I'd really like to try their lube, but haven't got desperate enough to pay their $20 fee.

 

[Merkava_4]

Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Have you tried a type 00 grease?


Never heard off it, but I've heard of 00 copper welding cable.

 

[Merkava_4]

Originally Posted By: Leo99
Are you professional mechanic? I can't imagine wearing out the grease in a ratchet as a DIYer.


From my experience, the grease doesn't wear out, it get's relocated away from the parts that I want the grease to stay on.

 

[Merkava_4]

Originally Posted By: Ramblejam
Have you tried Deere Corn Head Grease?


No sir, never heard of it.

 

[BigD1]

Super Lube cheap enough and easy to find is what I use. CDI torque wrench says Super Lube is what to use in their torque wrenches. I do have some Snapper OO grease. Come to think about it. It would be pretty dang good for lubricating ratchets. Probably better than Super Lube. Think heavy duty.

 

[Merkava_4]

Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Even though the grease might have "wiped clean" it still has a good film of grease on the ratcheting mechanism.


If it's a low viscosity grease like Sta-Lube 3311 or SuperLube 21030, there's practically no film left on the gear teeth after a few minutes of use. To remedy that, I've tried high viscosity greases, but then the grease doesn't allow full engagement between the gear teeth and the meshing gear pawl. As a real good happy medium, engine assembly lube seems to adhere well to the gear without getting wiped off while still enabling full engagement between the gear and pawl.

 

[Merkava_4]

Originally Posted By: gathermewool
What wear are you concerned about? What's the failure mode you're trying to prevent? I'll admit that I've never considered lubing my ratchets.


My primary concern is the noise. If the ratchet is too loud, then I know it's not getting properly lubricated. If the ratchet is too quiet, then I know the gear is not fully engaging with the pawl because of the grease being too thick. The sound I get from an engine assembly lube like Permatex #91050 or Sealed Power #55-400 is just right.

 

[LubeLuke]

A sticky type gear oil should work in a ratchet.
Find one that is stringy when you dip your finger in it, and doesn't wash off from low pressure boiling water.
For small gear mechanisms such as this that is what I use. After all it was designed for gears.