Well, you do know that if it's not a boutique oil, screaming about its base stocks on its label and a website, it must have a high Noack, right?
M1 0w40, 5,500mi, '15 Civic Si
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William nice to see you found something that actually worked for what you were looking for. I still think a good 10/30 would work just fine and stay in grade and offer excellent protection. Nice report.
Have no fear on extending your interval a bit with this oil it will go the distance without worry. Put the savings in your pocket.
Have no fear on extending your interval a bit with this oil it will go the distance without worry. Put the savings in your pocket.
Originally Posted By: kschachn
Originally Posted By: mtxjohn
Aluminum and iron wear metals are very high for Honda, especially with such a short interval. Thats because its a group 3 oil wearing your engine out faster than a group 4/5 would. Switch to Amsoil or Redline and see your wear drop. That 0/40 has to have a ridiculous high volatility leaving deposits all over buddy. 5/20 would be better. Do you know what the Noack is on that stuff?
Spectacular post. Can you tell us that if those numbers are very high for Honda, what are acceptable numbers? And Group III is wearing out the engine faster? Really? Got something to back that up at all, or is it related to the "ridiculous" high volatility of M1 0W-40?
I mean, should I stop using it on my BMW? Will I get longer life out of my M60 engine if I do? Will I get less deposits? What Amsoil product should I use instead?
Oh, and please show us where M1 0W-40 is a "group 3 oil".
+1 I "like" the "wearing out your engine" part the best. Redline.... I wonder how I got my Gen 4 to 330 K without it.
Originally Posted By: mtxjohn
Aluminum and iron wear metals are very high for Honda, especially with such a short interval. Thats because its a group 3 oil wearing your engine out faster than a group 4/5 would. Switch to Amsoil or Redline and see your wear drop. That 0/40 has to have a ridiculous high volatility leaving deposits all over buddy. 5/20 would be better. Do you know what the Noack is on that stuff?
Spectacular post. Can you tell us that if those numbers are very high for Honda, what are acceptable numbers? And Group III is wearing out the engine faster? Really? Got something to back that up at all, or is it related to the "ridiculous" high volatility of M1 0W-40?
I mean, should I stop using it on my BMW? Will I get longer life out of my M60 engine if I do? Will I get less deposits? What Amsoil product should I use instead?
Oh, and please show us where M1 0W-40 is a "group 3 oil".
+1 I "like" the "wearing out your engine" part the best. Redline.... I wonder how I got my Gen 4 to 330 K without it.
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Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: mtxjohn
Aluminum and iron wear metals are high for Honda, especially with such a short interval. Thats because its a group 3 oil wearing your engine out faster than a group 4/5 would. Switch to Amsoil or Redline and see your wear drop. That 0/40 has to have a ridiculous high volatility leaving deposits all over buddy. 5/20 would be better. Do you know what the Noack is on that stuff?
Utterly and absolute nonsense.
I don't even know where to start with this post.
First I guess is basestocks. No where on this planet,or any other planet in our solar system do basestocks correlate with wear.
Secondly if you took the time to look mobils oils are formulated with up to 60% pao,so that cans that idea.
Amsoil and redline make a fine product however it's an absurd notion to imply that a wear reduction will occur using them.
Noack(volatility) is well below the euro spec standard,so you obviously don't have a clue about what your talking about and saying m1 0w-40 is contributing to deposits at such a short interval is more nonsense.
Essentially your entire post is complete and total tripe and utter nonsense.
I suggest spending some time listening and less time posting,unless you like looking clueless
And this extra wear nonsense is hilarious.
You ar today's winner so far.
+1 Stu-nad of the week award.
Originally Posted By: mtxjohn
Aluminum and iron wear metals are high for Honda, especially with such a short interval. Thats because its a group 3 oil wearing your engine out faster than a group 4/5 would. Switch to Amsoil or Redline and see your wear drop. That 0/40 has to have a ridiculous high volatility leaving deposits all over buddy. 5/20 would be better. Do you know what the Noack is on that stuff?
Utterly and absolute nonsense.
I don't even know where to start with this post.
First I guess is basestocks. No where on this planet,or any other planet in our solar system do basestocks correlate with wear.
Secondly if you took the time to look mobils oils are formulated with up to 60% pao,so that cans that idea.
Amsoil and redline make a fine product however it's an absurd notion to imply that a wear reduction will occur using them.
Noack(volatility) is well below the euro spec standard,so you obviously don't have a clue about what your talking about and saying m1 0w-40 is contributing to deposits at such a short interval is more nonsense.
Essentially your entire post is complete and total tripe and utter nonsense.
I suggest spending some time listening and less time posting,unless you like looking clueless
And this extra wear nonsense is hilarious.
You ar today's winner so far.
+1 Stu-nad of the week award.
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Originally Posted By: mtxjohn
Aluminum and iron wear metals are high for Honda, especially with such a short interval. Thats because its a group 3 oil wearing your engine out faster than a group 4/5 would. Switch to Amsoil or Redline and see your wear drop. That 0/40 has to have a ridiculous high volatility leaving deposits all over buddy. 5/20 would be better. Do you know what the Noack is on that stuff?
This has to be in contention for best troll of the month. Absolutely brilliant.
robert
Aluminum and iron wear metals are high for Honda, especially with such a short interval. Thats because its a group 3 oil wearing your engine out faster than a group 4/5 would. Switch to Amsoil or Redline and see your wear drop. That 0/40 has to have a ridiculous high volatility leaving deposits all over buddy. 5/20 would be better. Do you know what the Noack is on that stuff?
This has to be in contention for best troll of the month. Absolutely brilliant.
robert
Unless its for warranty purposes that oil looks extremely underused.
Low wear, no shear, no insolubles, no fuel and insane TBN. Pretty sure even at 7.5K OCIs you would still be very far from using the oil to its full potential and it's a Honda SI so its an uber reliable, bullet proof machine.
Low wear, no shear, no insolubles, no fuel and insane TBN. Pretty sure even at 7.5K OCIs you would still be very far from using the oil to its full potential and it's a Honda SI so its an uber reliable, bullet proof machine.
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Originally Posted By: Swifty
William nice to see you found something that actually worked for what you were looking for. I still think a good 10/30 would work just fine and stay in grade and offer excellent protection. Nice report.
Have no fear on extending your interval a bit with this oil it will go the distance without worry. Put the savings in your pocket.
Thanks. I probably will go down to a 0/30 for my next oil change as colder temps arrive.. Good to find you over here, as I am done with 9thgen forums for the foreseeable future.
William nice to see you found something that actually worked for what you were looking for. I still think a good 10/30 would work just fine and stay in grade and offer excellent protection. Nice report.
Have no fear on extending your interval a bit with this oil it will go the distance without worry. Put the savings in your pocket.
Thanks. I probably will go down to a 0/30 for my next oil change as colder temps arrive.. Good to find you over here, as I am done with 9thgen forums for the foreseeable future.
Originally Posted By: Noobie
Unless its for warranty purposes that oil looks extremely underused.
Low wear, no shear, no insolubles, no fuel and insane TBN. Pretty sure even at 7.5K OCIs you would still be very far from using the oil to its full potential and it's a Honda SI so its an uber reliable, bullet proof machine.
Thanks. Agree that the oil can go much further if I wanted to.
Unless its for warranty purposes that oil looks extremely underused.
Low wear, no shear, no insolubles, no fuel and insane TBN. Pretty sure even at 7.5K OCIs you would still be very far from using the oil to its full potential and it's a Honda SI so its an uber reliable, bullet proof machine.
Thanks. Agree that the oil can go much further if I wanted to.
0W-40 in a 2015 Honda Civic is a big No-No.
Somebody's gonna be gettin' in trouble with the thin oil police.
Somebody's gonna be gettin' in trouble with the thin oil police.
Originally Posted By: wi11iam
Originally Posted By: Swifty
William nice to see you found something that actually worked for what you were looking for. I still think a good 10/30 would work just fine and stay in grade and offer excellent protection. Nice report.
Have no fear on extending your interval a bit with this oil it will go the distance without worry. Put the savings in your pocket.
Thanks. I probably will go down to a 0/30 for my next oil change as colder temps arrive.. Good to find you over here, as I am done with 9thgen forums for the foreseeable future.
Yeah I am done for the most part over there as well. To many bloody idiots!
Originally Posted By: Swifty
William nice to see you found something that actually worked for what you were looking for. I still think a good 10/30 would work just fine and stay in grade and offer excellent protection. Nice report.
Have no fear on extending your interval a bit with this oil it will go the distance without worry. Put the savings in your pocket.
Thanks. I probably will go down to a 0/30 for my next oil change as colder temps arrive.. Good to find you over here, as I am done with 9thgen forums for the foreseeable future.
Yeah I am done for the most part over there as well. To many bloody idiots!
I have the engine you are talking about that is spec'd for the 30w oil. I have the k20z3 in my 07 si and just posted a UOA thread using amsoil ss 0w30. My car seems to do fine on a 30 weight. I did 8k street miles and 20+ drag strip passes along with 8200 rpm shifting and my wear metals are low compared to yours. I think the wear in your report is a little high for a k series, but not troubling. I'd stick with a 0w30 in the k24. Check out my report in this section if you want to compare.
Originally Posted By: mtxjohn
Aluminum and iron wear metals are high for Honda, especially with such a short interval. Thats because its a group 3 oil wearing your engine out faster than a group 4/5 would. Switch to Amsoil or Redline and see your wear drop. That 0/40 has to have a ridiculous high volatility leaving deposits all over buddy. 5/20 would be better. Do you know what the Noack is on that stuff?
Aluminum and iron wear metals are high for Honda, especially with such a short interval. Thats because its a group 3 oil wearing your engine out faster than a group 4/5 would. Switch to Amsoil or Redline and see your wear drop. That 0/40 has to have a ridiculous high volatility leaving deposits all over buddy. 5/20 would be better. Do you know what the Noack is on that stuff?
Originally Posted By: mtxjohn
Aluminum and iron wear metals are high for Honda, especially with such a short interval. Thats because its a group 3 oil wearing your engine out faster than a group 4/5 would. Switch to Amsoil or Redline and see your wear drop. That 0/40 has to have a ridiculous high volatility leaving deposits all over buddy. 5/20 would be better. Do you know what the Noack is on that stuff?
Haha, so funny.
Aluminum and iron wear metals are high for Honda, especially with such a short interval. Thats because its a group 3 oil wearing your engine out faster than a group 4/5 would. Switch to Amsoil or Redline and see your wear drop. That 0/40 has to have a ridiculous high volatility leaving deposits all over buddy. 5/20 would be better. Do you know what the Noack is on that stuff?
Haha, so funny.
Originally Posted By: Guitarman200806
I have the engine you are talking about that is spec'd for the 30w oil. I have the k20z3 in my 07 si and just posted a UOA thread using amsoil ss 0w30. My car seems to do fine on a 30 weight. I did 8k street miles and 20+ drag strip passes along with 8200 rpm shifting and my wear metals are low compared to yours. I think the wear in your report is a little high for a k series, but not troubling. I'd stick with a 0w30 in the k24. Check out my report in this section if you want to compare.
Thanks guitarman for your input. I looked at your results and it looks like you have had pretty good results with the 0w30 you run. I think two factors make a comparison of your UOA vs mine different. First, I saw that you have ~90k miles on your engine, whereas my engine is around ~20k miles. I would imagine that this difference will play a part in how much metal is being thrown off each OCI. Second, I noticed that you added 1.25qts of makeup oil, which could be substantially helping your UOA as this oil is newer than the original oil that was used at the time of your oil change (that's around 25% of your total motor oil capacity).
Overall, I do agree that 0w30 is a great choice for these motors. In my particular instance, I was using 0w30 M1 AFE and noticed that it sheared a bit too much for my taste. This might be a specific issue to the larger 2.4L engine vs the 2.0 liter in your Si. It could also just be that the M1 AFE is light to begin with.. The Amsoil stuff looks pretty stout..
I have the engine you are talking about that is spec'd for the 30w oil. I have the k20z3 in my 07 si and just posted a UOA thread using amsoil ss 0w30. My car seems to do fine on a 30 weight. I did 8k street miles and 20+ drag strip passes along with 8200 rpm shifting and my wear metals are low compared to yours. I think the wear in your report is a little high for a k series, but not troubling. I'd stick with a 0w30 in the k24. Check out my report in this section if you want to compare.
Thanks guitarman for your input. I looked at your results and it looks like you have had pretty good results with the 0w30 you run. I think two factors make a comparison of your UOA vs mine different. First, I saw that you have ~90k miles on your engine, whereas my engine is around ~20k miles. I would imagine that this difference will play a part in how much metal is being thrown off each OCI. Second, I noticed that you added 1.25qts of makeup oil, which could be substantially helping your UOA as this oil is newer than the original oil that was used at the time of your oil change (that's around 25% of your total motor oil capacity).
Overall, I do agree that 0w30 is a great choice for these motors. In my particular instance, I was using 0w30 M1 AFE and noticed that it sheared a bit too much for my taste. This might be a specific issue to the larger 2.4L engine vs the 2.0 liter in your Si. It could also just be that the M1 AFE is light to begin with.. The Amsoil stuff looks pretty stout..
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