588 Marine Big Block - oil advice..

Status
Not open for further replies.
Originally Posted By: dja4260
We ran a 588ci iron block, Dart pro one heads, 14-1 drag race motor. We always broke the cam in with a conventional 40/50 straight weight. We typically ran mobile one or Amsoil as they sponsored us. We ran a filter element, and would check it often.

We run Mobile 1 20-50 in our current 622ci set up. We have spun it 8700 rpm through the traps (7.70 et @ 155 mph)

All in a drag race boat.


Yee ha! Big fun.

Im guessing thats an alky boat?

Cole/Sanger/Deever/ Canyon - What are you running?

I used to spend some time with the drag race guys until my friend Tim Capaldi got killed in front of me.

Ive pulled away from getting close to anyone else, but still spectate and have it running in my blood.

Thanks
 
Originally Posted By: UncleDave
Originally Posted By: dja4260
We ran a 588ci iron block, Dart pro one heads, 14-1 drag race motor. We always broke the cam in with a conventional 40/50 straight weight. We typically ran mobile one or Amsoil as they sponsored us. We ran a filter element, and would check it often.

We run Mobile 1 20-50 in our current 622ci set up. We have spun it 8700 rpm through the traps (7.70 et @ 155 mph)

All in a drag race boat.


Yee ha! Big fun.

Im guessing thats an alky boat?

Cole/Sanger/Deever/ Canyon - What are you running?

I used to spend some time with the drag race guys until my friend Tim Capaldi got killed in front of me.

Ive pulled away from getting close to anyone else, but still spectate and have it running in my blood.

Thanks



It's a two dominator gas set up. Made 1000hp on 114 octane. We regularly run against blown alcohol deals.

Deaver Hydro, single speed with in-out clutch. Easy 8.00 second bracket boat. Has run a 7.70 @ 155 mph with current set up.


 
I have an unhealthy addiction to performance like that. Looks like huge fun!

Ill leave the race gas toys to you kids and stick to the pump gas stuff.

 
I did marine engineering for like 14 years on propulsion systems, mostly jet drives and outboards...

Oil is a tricky subject for some folks. But for me it was pretty straight forward. If oil cooled pistons, it got HEDO like Rotella. If non-oil-cooled pistons there were more options. The reason was deposit build-up... By the time we were building oil cooled pistons (sprayed), we had sever heat issues to deal with.

Most of our motors were flat tappet. yours is roller so that takes some of the add pack needs away, or allows other alternatives.

You are not turbocharged, so you don't need to deal with those bearing speeds
smile.gif


I don't like synthetics because of the long sit periods between uses and the drain-off phenomena associated with low surface tension oils. They are great for frequently started motors, but something that sits for a week, not if you want a cold start cushion until the pumped oil is moving everywhere ...

So is it a tight motor, or clearanced? Did you put extra oiling points in the timing set? What cam gear and distributor gear material? What oil pump is in it? What pressure at idle warm now? What pressure at 5K now? Do you sample oil pressures from the crank galleries too?
 
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
Oil is a tricky subject for some folks. But for me it was pretty straight forward. If oil cooled pistons, it got HEDO like Rotella. If non-oil-cooled pistons there were more options. The reason was deposit build-up... By the time we were building oil cooled pistons (sprayed), we had sever heat issues to deal with.


just a comment on some of the other memes on the board...

squirters flow based on pressure, so if you need them, you need gallery pressure, and following the University 101 theories will impair, not help piston cooling.
 
If you believe everything you read in Oil University, good luck to you ...

Oil U - 104 PP4 "Anyway, oil on the surface of parts does not lubricate. It is the FLOW of oil between parts that lubricates."

This is false and misleading to the extreme. It IS the oil on the surface that lubricates - period. No oil, no lube. Flow just replenishes the oil slung off rotating parts.

You know this when you lube something with an oil can. There is no flow, but there is lubrication. Cams and lifters depend on existing surface oil until the engine starts slinging new oil. So do timing gears and chains. Some never see "flow" of pumped oil...

The author should be ashamed of that statement ...

And gallery pressure is certainly influenced by V. Especially in race like motors like this one that in all likelihood have had the all the oil by-pass's blocked and are pumping 100% at all times ...
 
Putting a smile on my face!!! I love drag boats for some twisted reason. I sold my Hondo lake boat in 2003. It was nothing like the above boats .I would usually do low dollar BBC basically under 8,000 RPM engines but the roar of the engine the protesting of the Vdrive screaming no more and the sound of the propeller at 7,500 RPM with 18% over drive. The joyful noise stirs the dark areas of your soul . Nothing like it
 
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
If you believe everything you read in Oil University, good luck to you ...

Oil U - 104 PP4 "Anyway, oil on the surface of parts does not lubricate. It is the FLOW of oil between parts that lubricates."

This is false and misleading to the extreme. It IS the oil on the surface that lubricates - period. No oil, no lube. Flow just replenishes the oil slung off rotating parts.

You know this when you lube something with an oil can. There is no flow, but there is lubrication. Cams and lifters depend on existing surface oil until the engine starts slinging new oil. So do timing gears and chains. Some never see "flow" of pumped oil...

The author should be ashamed of that statement ...

And gallery pressure is certainly influenced by V. Especially in race like motors like this one that in all likelihood have had the all the oil by-pass's blocked and are pumping 100% at all times ...
Noooooo! upsetting the group think !!!
 
finally some interesting discussion.

Have been at 3 trade shows since last post and haven't had time to pick up the mill and even look at specs.
Its ready though and no doubt will be an absolutely ball...

Iv been working at the hobby job showing off my companies fiberglass RZR body work on our new car we built for the winter. Of course working w Veronica is never terrible.

Odd when I look at " my stuff" it hadn't indicated any posts since mine.

More to come on the mill when I pick her up and some photos of the shoehorning it in.


UD


eXrctpx.jpg


aWmGeTj.jpg
 
Last edited:
target vehicle is ready to receive upgrade...

Gonna be a mushroom cloud laying mofo.

UD

7TmWe4g.jpg
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: UncleDave
Builder is a Lucas dealer, so its going to get Lucas high zinc break in oil to start.

I've never really been a fan of Lucas products, but maybe Im not giving them a fair shake?



Rather than a lucas additive, why not run an oil with plenty of zinc engineered in ? No chance of additive clash.
If you wanted really high zinc, run a motorcycle oil, probably 1700ppm and its a designed mix, not an additive.
 
Last edited:
I think lucas has a break in line of oil. Vs an additive. Going to see soon.

Suppose to be picked up wednesday.

UD
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: billt460
So what's the disadvantage to loading up an oil with Zinc?


"zinc" or variants of the ZDDP family of lubricants - poisons catalytic converters/ kills them- so its use in auto oil was mandated down.

Race oil doesn't have this restriction and one can load up on it at will.

UD
 
Last edited:
There is a point at which too much zinc is detrimental. I don't know what that level would be, but thats why i would worry about high zinc additives.
 
Originally Posted By: spasm3
There is a point at which too much zinc is detrimental. I don't know what that level would be, but thats why i would worry about high zinc additives.


All good up to 1,400ppm, then can increase the risk of intergranular cracking, and ultimately pitting.

It's not a defined "line" like 1399 will not pit and 1,401 caused damage.
 
OH boy oh boy oh boy!

Picked it up today. Steps left to go

1. put it in boat and place exhaust insure correct fit of hatch...

2. Go back to builder for final tuning in boat on prop dyno


UD

jetgqfp.jpg
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

R
High perfomance oil filter for big block chevy needed.
2
Replies
23
Views
1K
RodRocket
9
Best oil for a 3rd gen 4Rnr w/261k on it?
2 3
Replies
42
Views
6K
rainman49
P
2015 Kia Optima LX QT/300 Miles Oil Burned Solved/Fixed
2 3
Replies
40
Views
25K
centertex
F
Best coolant for a little fleet, and is oem manufcaturer better/cheaper?
Replies
7
Views
4K
Flyingdutchman
J
Oil for Cammed LS?
2
Replies
25
Views
13K
BrianSchulze
Back
Top