I recently leased a 2015 Kia Soul with the 1.6L direct injection motor. I have a 2 part question for everyone out there. I now have 2700 miles on it and I'm thinking about putting synthetic oil in it. #1 when does the motor have enough miles on it to take the factory oil out and put synthetic in? #2 Being it is leased I have to follow the owners manual for oil changes 7500/ or the dealer's recommendation 5000, would I be better off using a regular oil and changing every 5000 than using synthetic? If so which brand is best? If you say to run synthetic, which brand is best? I guess this is more than 2 questions. Thanks in advance for the help. Glen
New Kia Soul
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The FF was most probably 0w20 synthetic. If the manual recommends 0w20 then you are supposed to use syn or at least a blend oil. ed
If you're not buying it at the end of the lease, just do the oil changes as required by Kia. Otherwise you are just wasting money.
Originally Posted By: Andy636
It just blows my mind how the same cars in the US require such short OCIs when in Europe they can go for 20K+ km on the same oil...
A Mercedes with an 8quart sump that is typically loafing around at under 2k rpm is a little different this Kia with a 3 quart sump that sees 4k rpm on the highway at 80mph
It just blows my mind how the same cars in the US require such short OCIs when in Europe they can go for 20K+ km on the same oil...
A Mercedes with an 8quart sump that is typically loafing around at under 2k rpm is a little different this Kia with a 3 quart sump that sees 4k rpm on the highway at 80mph
This car-engine can use a 5w-20 or 5w-30, either one is spec'ed.
Conventional or synthetic. If you plan to buy at the end of the lease, use any name brand synth you see at walmart for cheap. In Minnesota, 5w-20 winter, 5w-30 summer. Change according to oil life monitor or owner's manual recommendations.
Conventional or synthetic. If you plan to buy at the end of the lease, use any name brand synth you see at walmart for cheap. In Minnesota, 5w-20 winter, 5w-30 summer. Change according to oil life monitor or owner's manual recommendations.
Originally Posted By: Brybo86
Originally Posted By: Andy636
It just blows my mind how the same cars in the US require such short OCIs when in Europe they can go for 20K+ km on the same oil...
A Mercedes with an 8quart sump that is typically loafing around at under 2k rpm
Are you talking about a passenger vehicle or a tractor?
Originally Posted By: Andy636
It just blows my mind how the same cars in the US require such short OCIs when in Europe they can go for 20K+ km on the same oil...
A Mercedes with an 8quart sump that is typically loafing around at under 2k rpm
Are you talking about a passenger vehicle or a tractor?
Originally Posted By: RhondaHonda
If you're not buying it at the end of the lease, just do the oil changes as required by Kia. Otherwise you are just wasting money.
+1 do the bare min with QS as per kia
If you're not buying it at the end of the lease, just do the oil changes as required by Kia. Otherwise you are just wasting money.
+1 do the bare min with QS as per kia
here in EU Hyundai/kia are using xW40 synthetic in their T-GDi and GDi engines...
Service manual says OCI on 20.000kms...but wise guys are changing oil sooner
Service manual says OCI on 20.000kms...but wise guys are changing oil sooner
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Originally Posted By: RhondaHonda
If you're not buying it at the end of the lease, just do the oil changes as required by Kia. Otherwise you are just wasting money.
+1
Even if you're not sure whether you'll keep the car, change the factory fill when the owner's manual says to, and then continue to change and complete all maintenance IAW the manual. If you decide to keep it, following the manual won't be the cause for any issues you'll have by the time turn-in comes around.
It is my experience that those who lease typically don't keep their vehicles after the lease is up. A new, appealing lease will be presented on a newer car with newer features, and it will be hard to resist upgrading and continuing with lease payments.
Disregard what the dealer recommends 100%.
If you're not buying it at the end of the lease, just do the oil changes as required by Kia. Otherwise you are just wasting money.
+1
Even if you're not sure whether you'll keep the car, change the factory fill when the owner's manual says to, and then continue to change and complete all maintenance IAW the manual. If you decide to keep it, following the manual won't be the cause for any issues you'll have by the time turn-in comes around.
It is my experience that those who lease typically don't keep their vehicles after the lease is up. A new, appealing lease will be presented on a newer car with newer features, and it will be hard to resist upgrading and continuing with lease payments.
Disregard what the dealer recommends 100%.
Originally Posted By: Andy636
It just blows my mind how the same cars in the US require such short OCIs when in Europe they can go for 20K+ km on the same oil...
In comparison with "us" they have less superior oil (Ilsac gf5 vs acea A3/B4)
and fuel with sulfur (ok not everywhere) and less additives
It just blows my mind how the same cars in the US require such short OCIs when in Europe they can go for 20K+ km on the same oil...
In comparison with "us" they have less superior oil (Ilsac gf5 vs acea A3/B4)
and fuel with sulfur (ok not everywhere) and less additives
Does thicker oil equal longer OCI's? Does that mean that oil that protects the engine better can go farther between changes?
Evidently 0w-20 is adequate but might 0w-40 be better for fighting wear and tear over the life of the vehicle. Or, has this idea been beaten to death, already?
Evidently 0w-20 is adequate but might 0w-40 be better for fighting wear and tear over the life of the vehicle. Or, has this idea been beaten to death, already?
Originally Posted By: OneEyeJack
Does thicker oil equal longer OCI's? Does that mean that oil that protects the engine better can go farther between changes?
Evidently 0w-20 is adequate but might 0w-40 be better for fighting wear and tear over the life of the vehicle. Or, has this idea been beaten to death, already?
If a 20wt can prevent wear a 40 wont do any better.
Does thicker oil equal longer OCI's? Does that mean that oil that protects the engine better can go farther between changes?
Evidently 0w-20 is adequate but might 0w-40 be better for fighting wear and tear over the life of the vehicle. Or, has this idea been beaten to death, already?
If a 20wt can prevent wear a 40 wont do any better.
I think he is saying that the ACEA A3/B4 standard is a more difficult to reach standard than the API SN standard. To get A3/B4 it needs to have TBN of 10 or more, noack of 13 or less, plus pass wear and shear stability teats. It's then classed as a "stay-in-grade" oil that can be used for extended drain intervals.
http://www.acea.be/uploads/publications/2012_ACEA_Oil_Sequences.pdf
I'm sure many name brand SN oils easily exceed the SN standard, but this can't be assumed for all SN oils. So the car manufacturers must assume the minimum oil to pass is the oil being used in the car when deciding on OCI. Hence a tougher standard that tests more and demands more (like a min TBN of 10) can allow the car manufacturers to extend the OCI.
http://www.acea.be/uploads/publications/2012_ACEA_Oil_Sequences.pdf
I'm sure many name brand SN oils easily exceed the SN standard, but this can't be assumed for all SN oils. So the car manufacturers must assume the minimum oil to pass is the oil being used in the car when deciding on OCI. Hence a tougher standard that tests more and demands more (like a min TBN of 10) can allow the car manufacturers to extend the OCI.
My daughter has a 2015 Soul, we have been doing 5w20 PYB changes in it at the short interval due to warranty. Thanks for posting the TSB, I was not aware they had backed off their short OCI agenda. If you read the manual in our 2012, basically if you drive the car you are in "severe service".
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