01 Intrepid 2.7 Oil Sludge, really dirty engine, H

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I have bought a 01 Dodge Intrepid with 120K for my sons daily driver. Sorry for the long post, this is going to take some explaination. Apparently this engine is known for catastrophic failure due to various oil related issues and I need help on defining an oil regimen. I’ve read all sorts of issues (true or false on this engine), for the sake of argument, lets just “ASSUME” this engine has some or all the following issues;
1) Small oil galleries, passages, and flow characteristics which are not condusive for good circulation could lead to engine failure
2) Dead areas, eddies, and various nooks and crannies which have no active circulation, allow for oil sludge to build. This eventually affects overall circulation could lead to engine failure
3) Low oil capacity leaves no margin for oil problems and could lead to engine failure
4) Internal Wtr Pmp design which is prone to failure and causes water to unknowing dilute oil and could lead to engine failure.
5) Low, or loss of oil circulation at the timing chain tentioner shortens the life of, or causes a slack tentioner. The ensuing “Knock of Death” results in engine failure on this no-clearance engine.
6) Low or impeded oil flow at the timing chain shortens the life of and causes premature chain failure resulting in engine failure on this “no-clearance” engine.
I have already done a “preemptive” timing belt, tentioner and water pump replacement (new and improved WP design) and what a PITA that was!
When I was in the engine, I was concerned with how dirty the internals were. Crud and grime coated every unloaded surface. I cleaned it as best as possible but I was concerned with how dirty the top end was.
All that for this question? What oil, what intervals, and what additives (if any) do I use to clean this engine up and keep it well lubricated. If this was your car and your list of issues, what would be your oil regime?
 
Valvoline maxlife. 6k oci. From ultra filter.

Anything else?

The oil has all the additives you need. No marvel or uncle hanks engine elixir needed.
 
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We have rebuilt hundreds of the 2.7 engines they are really problem engines clean it the best you can and hope for the best Do not flush it with engine flush... I have a friend that has one with 190,xxx miles on it but he has used marvel mystery oil a week before every oil change since about 20,000 miles and has used synthetic oil since then also. The anti freeze in the oil is a problem with that engine maybe use a slight amount of bars leak in the radiator.
 
Rotella T5, 10W-30...

Lots of detergents...

Change at 500, then 1000, then 1500 miles.

Use a cheap filter, STP or Purorator white can

Drop the oil pan, I did one, it had 3 inches of sludge.

Coolant leaks into the oil, I believe...
 
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I can agree with a change after 500-1000mi, afterward 3-4K mi for as long as it will run...

For the most part it's best to leave sludge you can't get to in place, today's detergent oil(99.99% of what's on the shelves)should gradually clean or at least not build any additional sludge which is why you should change oil at 3-4K mi... Myself, I'm not convinced any one brand has a cleaning advantage over the others...
 
Originally Posted By: Snoman002
Pennzoil Ultra supposedly cleans very well.

+1. At the beginning do shorter OCI's and gradually extend them out. Also, I would recommend putting some MMO 500-1000 miles before the OCI.
 
I'd just use PYB 10W-30 to start. It has great cleaning ability and is cheap. If the oil is solid black after 2k miles, change it - if not leave it in for 3k the 1st time. After that, stay with 5k OCIs and cheap filters. If it starts using oil, go to Maxlife Blend. Don't be afraid to go up to 10W-40 if needed to stem usage. It's important to always keep it topped off. Avoid any oil additives, not needed IMO.
 
The internal water pump design was a huge mistake.How anyone ever wrote off on that design is a mystery.Of course they probably consider a water pump a 100K mile replacement,and by then the car needs everything else too...
 
2001 dodge intrepid and daily driver are two different subjects. While it is possible to have both, one or both of you are going to become great mechanics. Sounds like a great father son project.
 
Originally Posted By: crazyoildude
We have rebuilt hundreds of the 2.7 engines they are really problem engines.........maybe use a slight amount of bars leak in the radiator.
 
Wow! Thanks for all the replies... OK I have som questions... Crzy, Where the majority of the rebuilds you have due to internal wtp pump design leaking into oil...(antifreeze in oil)? The "Bars" that must be a "stop leak" type additive, I hadnt considered that... Is it relatively stable indefinately?
 
Yup! The chain driven internal water pump. A bad idea from the get go and now Ford seems to be embracing the idea.
 
Its sounds like the "use a quality synthetic and change often" is the prevailing advise. I cant believe im about to say this but...
MOBLIE ONE...EVERY 3k...FRAME ULTRA?
 
Originally Posted By: 01Intrepid
Its sounds like the "use a quality synthetic and change often" is the prevailing advise. I cant believe im about to say this but...
MOBLIE ONE...EVERY 3k...FRAME ULTRA?

That is a good approach. Fram Ultra for sure, it has the best "depth-filtering" media in existence, strong choice for catching the most grams of junk and still functioning very well. Maybe just one 3,000 mile change, after that 6,000 with a synthetic.

Congrats on the Intrepid! I owned a '93 Intrepid with the wimpy 3.0L engine, first year for the cab-forward stuff to come out. Like the looks of all the Intrepids, roomy, nice.

The above discussion thread, I agree with the use of MMO concept, yet MMO is not that great as a cleaner solvent. I'd go with Gumout MultiSystem, 1 cup, in the sump 500 miles before an oil change, cuz its got the PolyEther Amine we want.

I had the transverse-mounted version in a 2004 2.7L V6 (Stratus), bought used at 123,000, and used Mobil1 0w-40 in it for the highest-spec performance oil I could find for it (used in racing, Mercedes, Porsche, GT-R, etc.). Walmart 5 quart jugs cheap too. With a lot of miles it has plenty of room to go up slightly in viscosity over a 5w-30. Add LiquiMoly Motor Oil Saver if you suspect their might be any oil leaks.
Or just use a High Mileage synthetic, like Valvoline MaxLife 5w-30 would be fine, any HM oil really, all major brands look good.

I added Bars Leak Stop Leak Heavy-Duty Radiator Sealer (walmart red and yellow bottle) because it has water pump lubricant and the famous pellets in it to a 9 year old BMW I have because I suspect slight coolant leakage and/or preventative, it can't hurt to use it.

The 2.7L is a fun engine, very revvy of course, lots of high rpm power available.
Good basic design for a multivalve. They can go for a long time.
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A couple recommendations for the marvel, my dad used to swear by that stuff, that was before the days synthetic. Would a 1000 mile run on the Marvel be wise before going to synthetic?
 
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