Question about layering

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I use a PC 7424XP and Lake Country pads.

Pinnacle, Meg's, Menzerna, Wolfgang, etc.

Fast forward to the final step: sealant.

Why would I layer to begin with and would not the second layer remove the first?

As in the Colinite 845 removes the Merzerna Power Lock?
 
Originally Posted By: dkryan
I use a PC 7424XP and Lake Country pads.

Pinnacle, Meg's, Menzerna, Wolfgang, etc.

Fast forward to the final step: sealant.

Why would I layer to begin with and would not the second layer remove the first?

As in the Colinite 845 removes the Merzerna Power Lock?



When you layer you want the final coat to be a product that contains no cleaners. Something like Collinite 845 or 476 would work well, 476 being the better of the two imo.
 
When I do my last step product I apply a 2nd coat 24 hours after the first. Not to "layer" per say, but to ensure that I didn't miss any spots...
 
Originally Posted By: BTW
When I do my last step product I apply a 2nd coat 24 hours after the first. Not to "layer" per say, but to ensure that I didn't miss any spots...


Good points on the re-coat and curing time.
 
I truly believe there is no reason to layer different products as there is absolutely no proof that it increases protection or increases durability.

I will typically do two quick coats of the same product (I let it cure if needed) just to make sure I got full coverage. I do not believe two coats will prolong the life of the sealant. I just want to make sure I didn't miss any spots on my cars.

If you feel you must layer, give you car a layer of the second product 4-6 weeks later when you your wax or sealant might need a "boost" and I think you will find you get much more bang for your buck!
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: BTW
When I do my last step product I apply a 2nd coat 24 hours after the first. Not to "layer" per say, but to ensure that I didn't miss any spots...

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There is no proof that layering provides any benefit. Regardless of if the top coat has cleaners or not the chemical reaction can weaken or remove the lower coats.

2 coats of a LSP, just to ensure even coverage.

A glaze may fall into a different category imo.
 
Several years ago I watched a very talented professional detailer spend six hours polishing a pickup truck. After polishing he applied Klasse AIO using a white foam pad on a Porter Cable 7424. It went on everything; paint, glass, trim, plastic lenses, wheels, etc. Without removing the excess Klasse, he immediately applied Collinite 845 on top with a hand pad. Then he removed the excess and buffed with a few microfiber towels. That was his usual method unless a customer specified a different product. In his opinion the combination of Klasse AIO and Collinite 845 makes for an unbeatable shine and lasting protection. I've copied his methods on my own cars and can testify that it works very well.
 
I'm to understand you would apply sealant first, then you can add wax on top for a "richer" look. Plus it should keep your layer of sealant lasting longer since the wax will be the first sacrificial layer of protection.
 
Originally Posted By: wn1998
If you feel you must layer, give you car a layer of the second product 4-6 weeks later when you your wax or sealant might need a "boost" and I think you will find you get much more bang for your buck!


That's what Nu Finish recommends.
 
Originally Posted By: ryanschillinger
I'm to understand you would apply sealant first, then you can add wax on top for a "richer" look. Plus it should keep your layer of sealant lasting longer since the wax will be the first sacrificial layer of protection.

Yes, that's correct.
 
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