98 Camry - Am I being stupid repairing this car?

[jim_a]

Need to vent and get some feedback.

I have a 98 Camry, purchased used in 2004 with 38K miles for $11K. It now only has 98K miles on it. I paid cash for it, so I have not had a car payment in 11 years. I drive in the brutal Ohio winters.
Since July of 2013 I've put $5,600 into this car for various repairs. A snapshot of the big ticket items:

-- New plugs and wires, new power steering pump drive belt, new fuel filter, new power steering belt, new drive belt, new struts, clean and adjust rear brakes.

-- New Tires

-- Left front ball joint replaced, LF strut replaced under warranty, stabilizer bar control link replaced

-- Replaced thermostat, new coolant, replaced both axle shaft assembly

-- New exhaust pipe, muffler, tailpipe, resenator, hangars

-- Timing kit with water pump, anti-freeze

Now it's time for new brakes and the fuel filler pipe is rusted and needs replaced. That's another $1K

My wife drives a 2007 Prius with about 98K on it. I would like her to drive that a few more years, then I will take over the Prius and we would get a new car.

With each repair I think, "this has to be it. I can drive this another 5 years." I only avg 5K miles a year on it.

Curious to get feedback on what the BITOG members say. I need the car therapy.

 

[Quest]

dunno what kind of hourly labour charge your area charges (or for indy shops: what sort of markups on parts), but based on your description: this is just standard affair on a car that is 17 yrs old (and I personally consider it "very low" maintenance cost, mainly wear and tear items.

tires, muffler, thermostat, t-belt,etc. all standard wear and tear items that gets replaced periodically/on a regular basis.

It's the labour cost service charge that seems a bit disconcerting.

Q.

 

[SLATRON]

$1k for brakes and filler pipe? I can change my cars pads all around cermanics for $50. Your paying way to much for the work I think

 

[JHZR2]

Im sort of failing to get why some of those things are needed at only 98k, but most of them are routine. There are a lot of people out here who talk about how they will keep their cars for 300k miles and how they will get low costs per mile. Doubt most of them have ever followed through. I have taken plenty to well past 200k, none to 300k though, but I can say that things do need replacement and repair. But a known item is a good item, and if it isn't otherwise rotting away with body rust, the car might be considered what it costs to replace it.

$1k to have someone do brakes and a tank pipe replacement may seem high, but if someone is doing it, you could DIY (brakes at least) and save some.

My decision would be based upon other glaring issues with the car, and the amount of body rust it has. 17 years and 98k doesn't scare me one bit. But rust does.

 

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted By: SLATRON
$1k for brakes and filler pipe? I can change my cars pads all around cermanics for $50. Your paying way to much for the work I think


Pads? What kind of pads? Doesn't mean you're picking the best and doesn't mean that OP is getting the worst.

And what about rotors? Fluid exchange? Someone's labor?

$50 is a stretch, but for a pad job, $100-200 is probably right for a shop, per axle. OP didn't specify the level of work though, so its not smart to speculate.

 

[Drosselmier]

I agree with Quest, Slatron and jhrz2. you have a lot of new parts on the car now. You may need to look around for someone to repair at a lower rate. May last you a while yet.
Keep us informed of your choice.

 

[eljefino]

These are some of the best years ever for camry. Filler pipes are expensive for what you get, for a part. I think it's the requirement in half the country to pass smog without EVAP leaks. I +3, get a cheaper mechanic.

But if you hate it you can probably get $5k in a private sale, because of the name and low miles. If you honestly hate it don't let us talk you into keeping it.

 

[bdcardinal]

My roommate had one and I did a bunch of work to it for her. Ended up not getting done everything I wanted to do before she moved, but it was a solid car. Hers was a 99 LE with the 2.2L. Typical girl car where nothing had been done.

 

[HerrStig]

Sounds like dealer repair prices. I've got a 98 I4 LE with 200K, I've not spend anywhere near that much. You can do a lot of basic items yourself.

 

[Mr Nice]

Keep it another 5-7 years.

 

[tomcat27]

almost everything on your list is normal wear and maintenance; and time and rust cause "wear" even if you drive low miles. It does seem like your repair costs are high; but I have nothing to compare it to since I repair myself. look at it this way, you drove a car for $1000 a year - and that is really good. really really good. you cant predict what will break next.

 

[tomcat27]

If it helps, I just replaced front wheel bearings, sway bar links, brake dust shields and struts on my Echo; and it needs a new exhaust system. between all of that work , that's almost $2500- $3000. (if I had not done the work myself - which I did for the bearings, struts, links. I'm undecided on the exhaust)

 

[Alfred_B]

OP, all these sound like normal maintenance items, except for maybe the exhaust system and the ball joint. But given the age of the vehicle and the environment it's driven, these seem normal.

 

[cat843]

If the filler pipe is rusted what about frame and body? If you have taken care of transmission, then the transmission should go to 200K.

What is the condition of frame/body?

Get under and spray some FF or similar around on the frame and underbody area.

Good for another 100K with normal maint.

 

[Turk]

You're paying WAY too much, you can get it done cheaper.

Our '97 Camry is well on it's way to 300k, and is in great shape.

 

[hansj3]

Nah, filler pipes rust out. Iirc they are really exposed to everything on those.

If you have the tools $200 to slap pads and rotors into it is cheap.
If not its a $350ish at my shop. We also charge $106 an hr

The filler neck is like $200, so with parts markup and labor $500 seems like a close number to fairly pay

How do you know that it needs a filler neck? Is it an evap leak? Or is it a fuel leak while filling?
If you can deal with the cell on, and don't need it to pass an emmissions test, let it roll. It won't harm anything

 

[4wheeldog]

It is not always economically feasible for the non mechanically inclined to own cars older than 10 years. The stuff you have had done, and the stuff you need done look like a few afternoons, plus parts. All cars need maintenance. Old heaps need a lot more TLC. For that, you get to save having a car payment. But.....If you are not doing it yourself, there is a whole lot less to save.

 

[Merkava_4]

2013 - 2004 = 9 years

9 x 12 = 108 months

($11,000 + $5,600) / 108 = $153.70 per month over 9 years

Can you buy a new car for that ?

 

[4wheeldog]

Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
2013 - 2004 = 9 years.

9 x 12 = 108 months

($11,000 + $5,600) / 108 = $153.70 per month over 9 years

Can you buy a new car for that ?


To clarify....Can you buy AND MAINTAIN a new car for that?

 

[PandaBear]

Rust is what I'll worry about in Ohio. If it is in California I'd keep it for another 10 years.