12V Outlet Receptacles Burnt out?

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So, I bought the clips that eljefino posted. Didn't take too long and I had the compressor working.

The good: It runs way quicker than it ever has. And I didn't even plug it into a running vehicle - just one of the spare batteries hanging out. I imagine it will be quite quick with 13.5-14V in it. The Jeep has a bunch of 15 year old connections and, even with the engine running, has 11.9-12V at the receptacles.

To test, I inflated a 265-75-16 tire ... much quicker than before and it wasn't getting as hot as it usually does.

The bad: Something got burnt up inside the motor when it was losing voltage due to the Jeep's bad plug. If it stops in a certain position it doesn't like to start up again.

I am headed to the junkyard this weekend for a new outlet panel and alternator. My plan is to find some heavy-ish connectors and make a quick connect system for the other one I bought so I can run it off if a cigarette lighter if needed. But I don't see myself doing that anymore. Picking up an outlet panel for the Focus isn't going to be as easy.


Originally Posted By: dishdude
Those little 12v compressors suck. I bought one of these about 10 years ago, it's perfect for topping off tires and can run on 12v if need be.

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I have a few real compressors that run off of 120v. The smallest I can run off of an inverter. This is mainly used for after off roading trips when I need to inflate the tires on the Jeep again or if I'm in a parking lot and come across someone with a flat.
 
Some designs are much better than others. Here is one rated for 20 amps:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G4RYWF2/ref=s9_hps_bw_g263_i9

Not that I'd trust it to pass 20 amps for more than a few seconds.

There are 12v compressors that come with alligator clamps because they know that the motor can overwhelm a ciggy plug and its wiring.

I have one such compressor, a MV-50, which with some better wiring, and 1/4NPT fittings tapped into the head, has made it a very reliable fast 12v compressor. The compressors which plug into ciggy outlets simply can;t be as good as they cannot draw enough current through the undersized vehicle wiring or badly engineered spring steel contacts.
 
@#$@#.

This thing is cursed!

December 2014: I drop it when filling up the flat tires on "turduckin the renta sentra".

June 2015: The air outlet tube snaps off due to being dropped.

I retap the head.


Works until I burn out BOTH receptacles on the Jeep.

Change over to a clip on style and it has a dead spot in the motor.

Go to use it for the first time on the Focus (inflating bike tire) and one of the connections I made comes lose and puts a small short against the battery on the Focus.

Tonight I am going to solder it together and use a heavier, lower gauge wire.

Also found a pair of 50A clips that will work for the other one!
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: Miller88
Daimler Chrysler engineering at its best, I guess. I had mistakenly assumed that the outlets rated for 15A would be able to handle a constant 15A draw.

Especially the 20A outlet fused at 15A ...

I can't seem to set of leads that will clip on to a battery that are rated for 15A.


Perhaps they can with the correct connector. The fault may be in the poor contact made with the connector for the compressor, these things are often shoddily made.

The direct connect method sounds a lot better for something with that kind of draw anyways. Good luck
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I think we have a winner. That and using something as a power outlet that was not originally intended to use as a power outlet is a problem. Those things normally don't get a good connection and short out easily with certain plugs. Using another type of plug that you hard wire in would be much better,
 
Junkyard it. Other models from the same company of that vintage will likley all use the same jack.
 
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Originally Posted By: Miller88
Don't even need to check other models. There is no shortage of cherokees in the junkyard.


Probably any other Chrysler made that year or near that year would used the same part.
 
Originally Posted By: Miller88
I remembered that I had an extra switch panel / outlet thing hanging out. So I swapped the receptacles from the old one (missing foglight switch) to the new one.

Mine were both similar to this except the old one had 2 switch spots and the one I have in there now (that burnt out) had 3.

http://www.4x4community.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=15185&stc=1&d=1204872528

I didn't know they had electronic lockers for Cherokees? Is it for the Dana 30 or 35?
 
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Originally Posted By: Miller88
I remembered that I had an extra switch panel / outlet thing hanging out. So I swapped the receptacles from the old one (missing foglight switch) to the new one.

Mine were both similar to this except the old one had 2 switch spots and the one I have in there now (that burnt out) had 3.

http://www.4x4community.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=15185&stc=1&d=1204872528

I didn't know they had electronic lockers for Cherokees? Is it for the Dana 30 or 35?


Not from the factory but a few companies make the same style switch for the switch panel.

I want to find a police package Cherokee in order to get the 4 switch unit. I will be adding the extended idle (factory on Police Cherokees) and would be nice to have the factory switch.
 
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